The Testpiece Podcast

Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US!You’ll also recognize Chris’ voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions.SHOW NOTES:Chris’ InstagramChris on The Green Mile (14c) by LT11Chris on the FA of Galmbers Fallacy (13b multi pitch FA) by LT11Kong Extendo Cheater DrawSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte, right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #144 for context!SHOW NOTES:Chris Schulte’s InstagramChris Schulte’s Black Diamond PageChris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before.SHOW NOTES:Chris Schulte’s InstagramChris Schulte’s Black Diamond PageJosh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt!That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there.This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen!If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing!SHOW NOTES:Bushido ClimbingSimon Lorenzi’s InstagramSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Tyler Nelson, founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, and Rob Hunter, head coach of the Irish Climbing Team, discuss their groundbreaking collaboration to enhance finger strength. At 48, Rob nearly doubled his finger strength with their innovative technique known as "squeezing the lemon." They emphasize the importance of focusing on muscular gains rather than just connective tissue and highlight how intention in training can lead to significant strength improvements. Dive into their insights on personalized training strategies and optimizing performance while minimizing injury risk!

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future.Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #140 for context!SHOW NOTES:Austin Hoyt’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hoyt.austin/Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ClimbveezAustin Hoyt’s Testpiece Episode #140: https://youtu.be/i2unRIlVdHkSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately.Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf, as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move.Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast.SHOW NOTES:Austin Hoyt’s InstagramAustin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube ChannelIssac Leff’s YouTube ChannelBeta labs (Austin’s Company)Mad RockDecoy HoldsMimic HoldsTestpiece Podcasts Mentioned:Noah and Benn WheelerAdam ShaharRoss FulkersonSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”.Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of  Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the most of the climbing between heavy rain and big swells.This podcast gives a behind the scenes look at the creation of the video and fills in all the gaps that a 20 minute video can’t quite capture.SHOW NOTES:“Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”Filmed and Edited by Raul OnyettRoss Fulkerson’s InstagramRoss Fulkerson’s YouTubeRoss’ Previous Testpiece Episodes:Podcast #3Podcast #4 Podcast #124 Podcast #133Mad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #137 for context!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley’s InstagramKai Whaley’s YouTubeKai Whaley’s Episode, #137Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai."Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn’t be surprising if by the time you read this he’s sent!Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17’s in the next few years, he’ll also take the title for V17.Kai’s YouTube is popular because he is funny, authentic, and an all around good guy (along with being insanely strong). He lives up to all of those attributes and more on this episode!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley’s InstagramKai Whaley’s YouTubeBoard Climb’s mentioned in the episode:“Black Widow”, Moonboard 2024“Extendo Clip”, TB2 V13 @ 45“Menacing Creation”, TB2Brian Squire’s Board AccountVideos mentioned in the podcast:Off LeashA Little LifeSqu(h)amishTestpiece Podcasts mentioned in the episode:Adam Shahar’s episodeMartin Keller’s episodeDavid Fitzgerald’s episode #1 and #2Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE