The Testpiece Podcast

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #137 for context!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley’s InstagramKai Whaley’s YouTubeKai Whaley’s Episode, #137Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai."Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn’t be surprising if by the time you read this he’s sent!Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17’s in the next few years, he’ll also take the title for V17.Kai’s YouTube is popular because he is funny, authentic, and an all around good guy (along with being insanely strong). He lives up to all of those attributes and more on this episode!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley’s InstagramKai Whaley’s YouTubeBoard Climb’s mentioned in the episode:“Black Widow”, Moonboard 2024“Extendo Clip”, TB2 V13 @ 45“Menacing Creation”, TB2Brian Squire’s Board AccountVideos mentioned in the podcast:Off LeashA Little LifeSqu(h)amishTestpiece Podcasts mentioned in the episode:Adam Shahar’s episodeMartin Keller’s episodeDavid Fitzgerald’s episode #1 and #2Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Tim Kang is a professional climber and highballer known for his World Cup competitions and the film "Focus." In this conversation, he highlights the astounding progress of younger climbers who tackle V17 as a norm. Tim and the host debate the nuances of climbing grades, questioning whether 15d is truly harder than V17. He also shares his thoughts on the best highball in the world and touches on his upcoming highball project. Expect hot takes and a lively discussion about the dynamic evolution of bouldering!

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A’s / V17’s he’s tried, the project he’s currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train for The Process (V16), and who he thinks will get the third ascent of it.We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #134 for context!SHOW NOTES:Zach Galla’s InstagramThe Process, V16, SA by Galla on MellowPretty Tall on MellowPrevious Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77Previous Zach Galla Tespitece Episode #134Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here.Since we last chatted he’s been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy did he achieve that goal… Get the blow by blow breakdown of Zach’s second ascent of the iconic “The Process”, V16, one of the proudest and most beautiful V16’s in the world that sat for 10 years waiting for Zach after Daniel Woods FA’d it. This could have been a podcast in itself but Zach did many more proud V15’s all over the world and FA’d a new V16 in LCC called "Sosa"!Zach also recently partnered with Black Diamond and joined a team called “BD Hex”. Hear more about the core climbing companies that are quickly growing and supporting the sport we all love.SHOW NOTES:Zach Galla’s InstagramPrevious Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77The Process, V16, SA by Galla on MellowPretty Tall on MellowBest Believe It on TensionLost Tapes on MellowUnstoppable by Chief KeefLove Sosa by Chief KeefConfluence on MellowDelayMyBelay on InstagramAustin Ernst on InstagramZach Galla’s Board AccountBrain Squire’s Board AccountBD Hex TeamBD Hex InstagramToinon BeigneNoah KeithleySean FaulknerFinn StackBobby VannoyAntigravNoiseSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

A couple of Island Boys just trying to make it to the top!We’ve got Ross Fulkerson, Marco Giacomangeli, and Bryce Belshin with your normal host, Josh Horsley. These boys recently got back from a trip to Mallorca that involved tons of amazing deep water soloing and some world class sport climbing as well.Each of these athletes are  active coaches or professional climbers. Hear from them about what they learned on the trip and how coaches coach each other. They also talk about how to use fear to your advantage which is absolutely crucial when you push your limits.SHOW NOTES:Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram and YouTube ChannelMarco Giacomangeli’s InstagramBryce Belshin’s InstagramMind To MotionAl Rangel Testpiece PodcastsEpisode #120Episode #7Previous Ross Fulkerson Testpiece EpisodesEpisode #124 Episode #4 Episode #3Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #131 was finished. Nathaniel Coleman shares a bit more about his thoughts on V17 grades, training while he projected “No One Mourns The Wicked”, and what the name truly means.We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #131 for context, and make sure you watch the “No One Mourns The Wicked, V17” video on Mellow!SHOW NOTES:Nathaniel Coleman’s InstagramNo One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on MellowNathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63: Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #131Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Special podcast!! Nathaniel Coleman just did a V17 FA, “No One Mourns The Wicked”! This is the first ascent of the highly sought after low start to the iconic V15 testpiece, Defying Gravity.Nathaniel reached out to Testpiece and asked if we could do a podcast to give a behind the scenes story to accompany the video that dropped on Mellow TODAY. Watch the video and listen to the podcast so you get the visuals and the detailed blow by blow!If you don’t know who Nathaniel Coleman is (really?!!?), you can listen to the first episode he did with Testpiece back on Episode #63. Nathaniel adds this V17 FA to his already world class ticks and Olympic silver medal.SHOW NOTES:Defying Gravity, Nathaniel Coleman on MellowNo One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on MellowNathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63Austin Geiman, Testpiece Episode #129Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

This episode is a roundup of 5 climbs from Testpiece guests, some of the BEST climbers in the world, sharing what it takes to go from Good to Great.Josh also shares what’s in his personal note titled “What I’ve Learned From Talking To The Best Climbers In The World”.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Austin Geiman recently made waves when he sent the iconic testpiece, Defying Gravity, V15, after 11 years and 100+ sessions. Austin started trying this boulder while it was still a project and he was there when Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb snagged the FA in 2013 in the film Huntsmen. He continued trying it through the years and then he also was there when the younger generation claimed the long awaited repeats. He finally added his name to the list and has even been supporting the next gen on the sit. Austin is deeply connected with all aspects of this iconic boulder and he shares with us the background on Defying Gravity, what makes it special, his epic send, and what he thinks about the next level sit.Austin is also an extremely accomplished life long climber in many other aspects with loads of hard sends and FA’s under his belt, as well as being a World Cup Semi-finalist and Nationals Finalist. He’s also coached, route set, and owns a climbing gym in Colorado Springs (Springs Climbing Center).SHOW NOTES:Austin’s InstagramHuntsmenAustin Sending Defying Gravity, V15Austin’s Gym in Colorado SpringsSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE