The Testpiece Podcast #165 ‘Good Temps’ 2 — Brooke Does Excalibur [15c], Ondra Flashes E11, Mt. Doom’s [V17] Aesthetic’s Matter, Actual Progression Of The Sport, and ‘First Dab Ascent’
Jun 30, 2025
In a lively discussion, climbing veterans Will Anglin, Carlo Traversi, and Austin Hoyt celebrate Brooke Rabatou's historic female ascent of Excalibur (15c) and Adam Ondra's impressive E11 flash. They dive into the evolving aesthetics of climbing, emphasizing the shift from pure difficulty to appreciating beauty in routes. Not shying away from challenges, they also tackle the controversial 'first dab ascent' debate, reflecting on ethics and progression in the sport. Their insights blend humor with knowledge, making for an engaging chat on climbing's dynamic landscape.
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Brooke Rabatou's Excalibur Send
- Brooke Rabatou impressed by flashing Excalibur 15c, a highly challenging sport climb.
- Will Anglin observed she has unmatched tip-to-tip tension and ability to handle extreme spans.
Adam Ondra's Bold Trad Flash
- Adam Ondra's E11 flash shows fearlessness and precision in trad climbing.
- The danger and complexity of trad grades adds to the impressiveness of such ascents.
Aesthetics Drive Difficulty
- There's a deep connection between aesthetics and climbing difficulty.
- Climbers seek beautiful lines which inspire both effort and progression.