The Testpiece Podcast

Testpiece
undefined
Jan 3, 2025 • 16min

#132 BONUS [Nathaniel Coleman] — V17 Grading Thoughts, Reflections On Naming, and What He Remembers Most From Projecting

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #131 was finished. Nathaniel Coleman shares a bit more about his thoughts on V17 grades, training while he projected “No One Mourns The Wicked”, and what the name truly means.We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don’t miss Episode #131 for context, and make sure you watch the “No One Mourns The Wicked, V17” video on Mellow!SHOW NOTES:Nathaniel Coleman’s InstagramNo One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on MellowNathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63: Nathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #131Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
undefined
Jan 1, 2025 • 1h 52min

#131 Nathaniel Coleman — V17 FA “No One Mourns The Wicked” [Defying Gravity Sit], The Newest And Best V17 In The World, and Breaking The Rules to Go from Good to Great

Special podcast!! Nathaniel Coleman just did a V17 FA, “No One Mourns The Wicked”! This is the first ascent of the highly sought after low start to the iconic V15 testpiece, Defying Gravity.Nathaniel reached out to Testpiece and asked if we could do a podcast to give a behind the scenes story to accompany the video that dropped on Mellow TODAY. Watch the video and listen to the podcast so you get the visuals and the detailed blow by blow!If you don’t know who Nathaniel Coleman is (really?!!?), you can listen to the first episode he did with Testpiece back on Episode #63. Nathaniel adds this V17 FA to his already world class ticks and Olympic silver medal.SHOW NOTES:Defying Gravity, Nathaniel Coleman on MellowNo One Mourns The Wicked, V17 FA, Nathaniel Coleman on MellowNathaniel Coleman, Testpiece Episode #63Austin Geiman, Testpiece Episode #129Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
undefined
Dec 23, 2024 • 19min

#130 Good To Great — What The Best Of The Best Focus On, Execution, Resilience, Intrinsic Motivation, Stretching Your Limits, and Trying HARD

This episode is a roundup of 5 climbs from Testpiece guests, some of the BEST climbers in the world, sharing what it takes to go from Good to Great.Josh also shares what’s in his personal note titled “What I’ve Learned From Talking To The Best Climbers In The World”.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
undefined
Dec 16, 2024 • 1h 32min

#129 Austin Geiman — Defying Gravity V15, 11 Years and 100+ Sessions, The History The Sit And The Next Generation, “Best Boulder Ever Best Experience Ever”, and The Power Of Perseverance

Austin Geiman recently made waves when he sent the iconic testpiece, Defying Gravity, V15, after 11 years and 100+ sessions. Austin started trying this boulder while it was still a project and he was there when Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb snagged the FA in 2013 in the film Huntsmen. He continued trying it through the years and then he also was there when the younger generation claimed the long awaited repeats. He finally added his name to the list and has even been supporting the next gen on the sit. Austin is deeply connected with all aspects of this iconic boulder and he shares with us the background on Defying Gravity, what makes it special, his epic send, and what he thinks about the next level sit.Austin is also an extremely accomplished life long climber in many other aspects with loads of hard sends and FA’s under his belt, as well as being a World Cup Semi-finalist and Nationals Finalist. He’s also coached, route set, and owns a climbing gym in Colorado Springs (Springs Climbing Center).SHOW NOTES:Austin’s InstagramHuntsmenAustin Sending Defying Gravity, V15Austin’s Gym in Colorado SpringsJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
undefined
Dec 9, 2024 • 1h 32min

#128 Anne-Worley Moelter — CEO of Movement, Running The Largest Network of Gyms In The US, Climbing’s Unique Community, The Evolution Of Climbing Gyms and Where They're Headed

Anne-Worley Moelter is one of the most important people in climbing today because she is the CEO of Movement Climbing, the largest network of climbing gyms in the US with a portfolio of 30 gyms and another 3 coming soon. These gyms set the tone and craft the climbing experience for millions of climbers.Anne-Worley is a lifer who has done SO MUCH for our sport. She started her journey in the industry over 20 years ago working as an assistant manager at a gym. She went on to hold many different roles in the industry such as being a founding member of ABS, running USAC, and of course, opening the original Movement in Boulder, CO in 2009 with her husband Mike Moelter.Movement has gone through a lot of changes since that first gym, but now Anne-Worley is back to run the much larger organization.Tune in to hear Anne-Worley share insights on how our industry has evolved and where it's heading. You can't miss these insights from someone who is in a unique position in climbing and has worn almost every hat you can wear in the industry!SHOW NOTES:Movement Climbing WebsiteMovement Climbing InstagramJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
undefined
Dec 2, 2024 • 2h 17min

#127 Tim, My Dude — V17 Is The New V16, $100 Bet That ‘Shaolin’…, Professional To Weekend Warrior, Embracing Weird Beta, and Josh Reflects On Mallorca

Timothy Kang, aka “Tim, My Dude” is back on the pod to talk about the latest climbing news, an update in his life going from a pro-climber to a weekend warrior, and hear about Josh’s recent trip to Mallorca.If you are new to the podcast you may not recognize why he is “Tim, My Dude” and that is because of the many many podcasts Josh and Tim recorded previously and how each podcast started. If you like Josh and Tim’s vibe on this one, be sure to visit the previous dozens of episodes where Josh and Tim cover all things high level climbing.SHOW NOTES:Shaolin, V17Noise (Sean Bailey Clothing Co)Wheel Rock Defying Gravity SitKai Whaley Trying ShaolinCharles Barefoot V17Pete Whittaker Trying ItTerranova V16 or V17?Spots of TimeDarth GraderFOCUS (Tim climbing highballs in Bishop)Tim Climbing at Moe’sJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
undefined
Nov 25, 2024 • 1h 37min

#126 Natalia Grossman — 4x WC Season Winner [in a row!], Mindset As An Underdog vs Topdog, Climbing Your Best While Injured, and Knowing She’s ‘Ready’ For a Comp

Natalia Grossman is one of the top female competitors of all time. She has won an astounding 11 World Cups and 4 World Cup seasons in a row! She also competed in the 2024 Paris Olympics for Team USA.Even though Natalia won the WC season in 2024, it was a tough year for her. She suffered a serious injury during the semi finals in the first World Cup competition of the year. Somehow she pushed through it to win the competition, but afterwards it was clear that the injury was a major one. The worst part? This was just a few months before the Olympic Games.Hear from Natalia about what it was like dealing with her injury through the Olympics as well as the entire season where she ultimately still pulled off multiple World Cup wins and won the all around title. Natalia also goes into the ups and downs of the pressures she has felt over her career. Both when she was the underdog and then the top dog. Natalia also shares how she knows when she’s ready for a competition. And here’s a hint — it’s not when she sends a no-handed slab boulder!SHOW NOTES:Natalias Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/natalia_grossman/Natalias Board Climbing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/natalia_boardclimbs/Natalia and Brook Climbing in RMNP: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-mvzn_QjAQKilter Climbs Natalia Mentioned:Miami Vice Grips: https://www.instagram.com/p/ChYAAl1FlLI/ Death Touch: https://www.instagram.com/p/CaLdEd6JtMr/Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
undefined
Nov 18, 2024 • 2h 13min

#125 Melina Costanza — Double Double Gold Gold Pod Pod (Follow-Up Episode), ‘Pressure Is A Privilege’, What Execution Really Feels Like, V13 2nd Go, and The Power of Journaling

This is a follow-up episode to the last Melina Costanza podcast, #119. That episode was one of the fan favorites, josh favorites, and even favorites of other professional climbers. Go listen to that one first, because it was amazing and will set the stage for this follow-up episode.It’s only been a month since Melina last came on, but in that month she won US Nationals, both in Lead and Bouldering, and did so for the second year in a row. Yes, in 2023 she won Lead and Bouldering and in 2024 she AGAIN won Lead and Bouldering! On top of that she won multiple high level local comps this month and found the time to go outside and do a slew of double digit boulders. One of which was a near flash of a V13 (she still sent 2nd go)!Melina is incredibly articulate and insightful on the intricacies of performing at the highest level of competition. In the last episode she detailed her training leading into Nationals, and since she had such a stellar performance we wanted to sit down and explore exactly how that training turned into perfect execution.Don’t miss this one… These two pods together are not just a 2x, it’s squared. (Ya, that's a lame joke, but it's true.)SHOW NOTES:Melina Costanza’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/melinacostanza/Melina’s previous Testpiece Podcast, #1192024 Double Gold ChampV13 Second GoJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
undefined
Nov 11, 2024 • 1h 59min

#124 Ross Fulkerson — Efficient Movement Over Everything, Performing Well In Different Disciplines, Practical Breathing Tips, and Testing New Climbing Shoes

This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they recorded this podcast.Ross is back on the pod after a multi year hiatus. Ross was actually the very first guest back on episode #3 and #4! Since then Ross has won tons of comps, competed in tons of world cups, climbed hard boulders, hard sport, even hard trad! In the last few months Ross has been on tear doing all of those disciplines at a high level. Josh went out to Mallorca to join Ross and they sat down for a chat about the thread that connects all of these disciplines together and how Ross manages to perform at such a high level in each of them.Ross also shares what it’s like to test new and updated shoes by Mad Rock. How does he make sure they can handle all the things he throws at them? How does he figure out what to suggest to make them even better? How does Mad Rock actually take that feedback and turn it into a better product? This is a cool behind the scenes look at how pro’s actually interact with their shoe companies to make the shoes the best they can be.SHOW NOTES:Ross Fulkerson’s InstagramRoss Fulkerson’s YouTubeAl Rangel Testpiece PodcastRoss’ Previous Testpiece Episodes:Podcast #3Podcast #4Mind to Motion Clinics: https://www.mind-to-motion.com/Flair Manual Espresso MakerMad RockJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
undefined
Nov 4, 2024 • 1h 55min

#123 Adam Shahar — The Best Training For Climbing, 1-Arm Pogo’s, IFSC Athlete of the Week, Ego Snacks, and Letting Go of Negative Thoughts

Adam Shahar is the name that keeps coming up when I ask who is an up and coming star. At 18 he had a breakout year where he won bouldering nationals, climbed V15 in a few sessions while he was on the road doing WC’s, and then became IFSC’s Athlete of the Week when he narrowly missed finals with a 7th place finish at the Prague WC. He also had perhaps the most incredible board climbing session of all time where he did 5 V13’s on the Tension TB2, flashing 1 of them and doing 2 of them second try… Adam is known to be one of the physically strongest climbers in the world, and in this episode he shares his ‘hot take’ on how to train for World Cups.Adam also dives into how he’s leveled up his mental game recently which he credits a lot of his recent success to. This is an awesome episode with someone you need to keep an eye on!SHOW NOTES:Adam's InstagramAdam climbing The Understanding (V15)Adam’s epic Tension TB2 SessionIFSC Athlete of the WeekTransience (V14)Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

The AI-powered Podcast Player

Save insights by tapping your headphones, chat with episodes, discover the best highlights - and more!
App store bannerPlay store banner
Get the app