The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

  About Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's accomplished so much in his 37 years. So here's his Wikipedia page. Please read it - it's fascinating.  What We Talked About His climbing career How he's trained for different projects How mixed climbing helps him to train for sport and trad  The mistakes most climbers make in their training Excelling even when the pressure is on How he deals with fear on scary routes His secret diet (exposed! woohoo!) Related Links Dave's blog: www.davemacleod.blogspot.com Dave MacLeod on Facebook Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.  

  About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible.  What We Talked About His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses How he works with clients Training for crack climbing Pinky crack drills Free soloing 3,000 routes Case study of bouldering client Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients Intro to "Jack Daniels"   Jack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends that he has good finger strength, but never quite seems to transfer it to his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulder problems he hits "The power-out wall" at about 60 seconds. He'd like to understand what factors are limiting his physical performance.   --> Assessment feedback for Jack Daniels Related Links Lattice Training: www.latticetraining.co.uk Tom Randall on Facebook His coaching partner, Ollie Tom Randall on Instagram Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: December 7th, 2015 About Thomasina Pidgeon Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - one of the strongest Canadian female climbers, actually, having done over 40 boulders V11 to V12. She's also competed quite a bit, and been quite successful on national and international levels. She does this at the age of 40, all while living out of her van, which she's done since she was 19 years old, and while raising her 9 year-old daughter.  What We Talked About Van life and being a mom Her training regimen designed by Steve Maisch What's different in her climbing now that she's 40 How she trains now vs before she started competing Her success on a high fat diet Related Links Thomasina's website: www.thomasinapidgeon.blogspot.com Thomasina on Facebook Thomasina on Instagram Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.  Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Mike Chapman Thanks for listening!

About Steve Bechtel I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Elemental Fitness, where he works with climbers and athletes of all kinds. What We Talked About What makes a good climbing trainer Confusion about periodization Confusion about finger training Repeaters vs. Eva Lopez training Climbing as training for climbing Listener questions Related Links Steve’s website, Climb Strong at www.climbstrong.com Climb Strong on Facebook: www.facebook.com/climbstrong Steve’s gym in Lander is Elemental Performance and Fitness at http://lmntl.net Steve’s book about strength training on trainingbeta. Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

About Isabelle Faus Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in South Africa recently, and has done several V13's, including Nuthin' but Sunshine in a day. She also just started sport climbing and did her first 5.14a the other day. She'll tell you all about her climbing, training, and diet in this episode.  What We Talked About Her bouldering career highlights How her coach as a child taught her so much about training Her weekly schedule for workouts and climbing Exactly what her workouts look like How she makes it work without sponsors How she stays injury-free Lots more Related Links Isabelle on Instagram: @Fausey Isabelle on Island.io Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)   Thanks for listening!

About Justen Sjong Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the globe. He currently works out of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder and does online coaching via www.climbingsensei.com. He has a thing or two to say about climbers improving their mental game and becoming better climbers overall.  What We Talked About The difference between a climbing coach and a climbing trainer When to say "take" on routes How he coaches Alex Puccio How to increase confidence, and why it's important How your body language can influence your climbing performance Lots more Related Links Justen's online climbing services: www.climbingsensei.com Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Andrew Burr Photography Thanks for listening!

TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes  Date: November 4th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Will Anglin   Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14. He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible). What we talked about: The importance of strength training Difference between strength and power His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks Whether or not you should train to exhaustion Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not Who should be campusing Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not Things We Mentioned Will's website Tension Climbing (coming soon) Will's article on finger strength training I'm doing nutrition consults one-on-one with people again on a limited basis. If you're interested, email neely@trainingbeta.com Discount on ArmAid If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works. We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!   Training Programs for You Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com. Please Review Us on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell. Thanks for listening!  

Date: October 5th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Nathan Drolet   We met Nathan Drolet in the Red River Gorge a couple years ago when his badass girlfriend, Natalie Hawley, was projecting 8 Ball while I was working on Snooker. We ran into them a lot over that season in the Red and in Chattanooga, where they now live.  What I noticed about Nate is that he's a calm, collected, strong, solid climber. He was obviously dedicated to climbing, having moved to the Red to work at Miguel's so he could pursue it full time. He's climbed up to 5.14a and V11, and he won the 2011 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell. And he's a really nice guy. When I asked you all a while back for suggestions for "everyday climbers" (ie not pros) whose training has paid off, several people suggested Nate, so of course I had to interview him to find out how he does it. What We Talked About How he stays strong living on the road How he uses breathing to create power and to relax How he trained back flagging His new interest in lifting and how it's changed his climbing Whether or not he runs and why Diet  Mental training Training Programs for You Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

Direct Download: LINKDate: August 20th, 2015 About Ben Moon Ben Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climbing career. He's 49 years old and just sent 9a (5.14d) this year, after having put up the first of the same grade in 1990 ("Hubble" in France). He's bouldered up to V14, and he does all this while running a successful climbing company called Moon Climbing and raising a child with his wife. He also created the classic Moon Board and the Moon Fingerboard, designed for the stronger, more massochistic among us. I wanted to talk to this legend about how he's achieved all of this, and he kindly granted me an interview. By the way, there are 2 Ben Moon's in the climbing world: this English Ben Moon and the videographer/climber Ben Moon who lives in the U.S. and recently made a video about Denali the dog. What We Talked About Here's what English Ben Moon and I talked about: His history as a climber Hubble, the first 8c+ ever, and how it got upgraded to 9a Training for and sending 9a at age 49 How he trains in general His thoughts on the Moon board and the Moon Fingerboard Whether he's just genetically gifted or if he has to train hard Training and projecting on a tight schedule How he's doing on Northern Lights, another 9a Related Links Moon Climbing: www.moonclimbing.com Video interview of Ben Moon on his recent 9a ascent of Rainshadow Moon Climbing on Facebook Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

Direct Download: LINKDate: August 12th, 2015   (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Jon Cardwell   Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder. I've been hearing all about him crushing Rifle and the Fortress this year, so we sat down and talked about how he trains for that, what he's psyched on right now, and his plans to go back to France this year and finally do Biographie. He's a super humble, sweet and well-spoken guy, and I really enjoyed this conversation with him. What we talked about: How he trained for The Game (V15) How he trains for hard routes His attempt at Biographie (5.15a) this spring, and what he'll do differently next trip His successful Rifle season this year, including 5.14a onsights His unconventional use of the hangboard and campus board How he gives back as a coach His thoughts on diet Things We Mentioned Jon's Instagram Jon's Facebook Discount on ArmAid If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works. We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!   Training Programs for You Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com. Please Review Us on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon! Thanks for listening!