The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

New Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these episodes. This week, we decided to start with finger training, since it's such a popular topic.  Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular Joes like you and me. He's seen his methods work on 100's of climbers so far, and so I thought I'd give him a platform to share his knowledge with you guys. Here's episode 1 of "Ask Kris", and hopefully we'll get one out every week. If you have a question for him, email me at neely@trainingbeta.com and we'll try to answer it.  What We Talked About How he likes to train finger strength Who should train finger strength and who should not What "repeaters" are and how to do them Kris Peters Links More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online Kris's online programs you can start following today with 3 workouts/week (bouldering and route training) Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program  Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)  

About Neil Gresham   Neil Gresham is a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training columnist at both Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines, and has written extensively on the topic. At 44, he's still pushing his limits on sport climbs (14b last year), ice climbs, and deep water solos, among other types of climbing. Although he has no formal background in training (I'm finding that to be irrelevant in these interviews), he's studied the literature on climbing training and other related sports. But most of all, he's debatably one of the most experienced climbing trainers out there, having been doing this pretty full time since the 1990's.  He also wrote an interesting article recently about his ketogenic diet that's made a huge difference in his climbing and body composition, which I responded to with my own podcast episode about the diet. We talk about his experience with keto and exactly what he eats on it.  What We Talked About Case study of 5.10/11 climber trying to break into the next level How he helped fix a client's elbows in a matter of weeks How to break into 5.11 or 5.12 What the ketogenic diet is and how he's improved on it The most important overall exercise for a climber Neil Gresham Links Neil Gresham's website Awesome video of Neil training and redpointing

About Jorg Verhoeven Jorg Verhoeven is a professional Dutch climber who lives and trains in Austria. He's done about 150 world cups (in both bouldering and routes), and he won the Overall Lead World Cup in 2008 and was World Youth Champion twice. He did the 4th free ascent of The Nose on El Cap (5.14), and he recently did Wheel of Life (V15). He was on the cover of Climbing magazine for his historic repeat of The Nose, which further piqued my interest in this all-around badass climber. I wanted to know how he's capable of doing it all, so we chatted about his training, his attitude about climbing and life, and how he keeps it fun and interesting for himself. What We Talked About How he trains in his limited gym facility Whether or not he does finger training and campusing (very interesting answers) His internal struggle on The Nose How he trained for the Nose His very specific training for World Cups and other comps Jorg Verhoeven Links Jorg on Wheel of Life (V15) (Video) Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose (Video) Jorg Verhoeven on Facebook

About Neely Quinn Neely is your host for the podcast every week, but she's also a practicing nutrition therapist, and has been since about 2007. She's helped hundreds of people lose weight and get closer to optimal health. She takes an individualized approach to nutrition, and in this podcast episode she tackles weight loss for climbers and how to approach it properly (if you need to approach it at all).  Weight Loss for Climbers Calories Carbs Food Sensitivities When to see a doctor Overtraining Want to work with Neely one-on-one? Her nutrition coaching page: www.trainingbeta.com/nutrition-coaching Email her at neely@trainingbeta.com

About Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first V15 (The Nest). He's an all around strong, determined climber, and I wanted to know what makes him tick. What We Talked About How he prepared for Jumbo Love How he stayed motivated on Jumbo Love for 7 years How depression has affected him and his climbing Getting over psychological plateaus Future goals Ethan Pringle Links Ethan on Jumbo Love (Video) Ethan Pringle on Instagram Ethan Pringle on Facebook

About Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in Chamonix, France. As an ice climber, a mixed climber, a trad climber, a sport climber, and a boulderer, I was really interested in knowing how Matt trains to stay strong for it all. You can find out more about him and his first ascents on his athlete page at Patagonia and on his personal site.  What We Talked About What winter alpine climbs entail How he trains for it all Climbing 5.14a Hard alpine ascents in remote areas Training 7 days a week Why it's hard to do it all Related Links Video trailer of Citadel, a film about Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey in Alaska  Matt Helliker's personal site: matthelliker.com Matt Helliker on Instagram Matt Helliker on Twitter Matt Helliker on Facebook

I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and I expect that a lot of people will want to try it for themselves. I researched the diet quite a bit a few years back and then experimented with it on my own. I've helped nutrition clients onboard to a ketogenic diet, and I've talked with a lot of people about the difficulties and successes they've had with it. It's a really interesting topic, partly because everyone is so different that it may or may not work for you. It didn't work for me (for reasons I'll explain in the episode), but it may work for you. And who knows - if I'd done things differently it may have worked for me. In this episode, I explain: What the ketogenic diet is What the macronutrient ratios are How to know if you're actually in ketosis Why people like the ketogenic diet The difference between the ketogenic diet and Paleo/Primal What foods are pretty much no-no's on the diet My experience and mistakes on the diet My goals are to help you understand it a little better and maybe to help you avoid some common mistakes if it's something you're interested in trying. I'd love to know what your personal experience with it has been, and if you have any questions about it just leave them in the comments below! Thanks for listening :)

About David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. In 2014, he managed to send 20 boulder problems between V11 and V13 during a 17-day trip to Vastervik, Sweden. He's a Senior Coach at The Climbing Works, a gym in Sheffield, England, and he does personal training/coaching for people there. He's known for his relentless training, and that's what we talked about in this interview.  What We Talked About Dealing with failure Shoulder dislocation and injury 3-a-day training sessions Training for King of Limbs (V13/14) His exact training schedule How he'd change his training schedule for someone not as strong Related Links Video of David Mason on King of Limbs Article and videos of his trip to Sweden in Rock & Ice David Mason on Instagram David Mason's website and photography Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Date: January 27th, 2016 About Matt Lloyd Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver about 15 years ago. He's known for his bold R and X-rated ascents, and now for having started a small gym in Denver called Mountain Strong that's devoted to training for climbing. What We Talked About How he prepares for free solos His hardest sends Why he built a gym devoted to training for climbing How olympic lifts and crossfit workouts help climbers How to build fitness The future of training for climbing Related Links Matt Lloyd's gym: www.mountainstrongdenver.com Article on Climbing Mag by Matt about overcoming fear Training Programs for You  

About Nina Williams Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored climber, she's able to travel often, and she's spent time in Australia, South Africa, Switzerland, Hueco Tanks, and other popular climbing destinations. I sat down with Nina to talk about how she trains, what she eats, her attitude toward climbing, and what it's like training and climbing with Alex Puccio.   What We Talked About Why she did highball boulders and why she doesn't anymore Where her climbing is going Why trad climbing is so satisfying to her How she changed her approach to comp climbing Who trains her Her home training set up What she eats and why Related Links Nina Williams on Instagram Nina Williams on Facebook Trailer for Za, a movie about Nina, Daniel, Nalle, and Dave Graham Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.