The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently
TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes
Date: November 4th, 2015
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About Will Anglin
Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14.
He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible).
What we talked about:- The importance of strength training
- Difference between strength and power
- His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks
- Whether or not you should train to exhaustion
- Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not
- Who should be campusing
- Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not
- Will's website
- Tension Climbing (coming soon)
- Will's article on finger strength training
- I'm doing nutrition consults one-on-one with people again on a limited basis. If you're interested, email neely@trainingbeta.com
If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.
We wrote a glowing review about it here. Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!
Training Programs for You- Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
- Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
- If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
- Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
- Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell.
Thanks for listening!