The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Date: July 29th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Adam Macke Adam Macke (pronounced "Mackey") is a climbing trainer out of Chattanooga, TN. He works with people out of High Point Climbing and Fitness, which is a pretty new gym downtown. Adam has been personal training people since the early 2000's, and uses weight training and Muscle Activation Technique (MAT) to unlock climbers' potential. He's also a climber of 8 years himself. His methods with people in training for climbing are quite different than other trainers, so our conversation was pretty interesting and out of the box. To find out more about him, go to www.mackefit.com. What We Talked About How he differs from other climbing trainers What MAT is and how it's helped climbers Why fingerboarding isn't the best way to train finger strength And what to do instead Why campusing isn't the best way to gain power And what to do instead Links We Mentioned Adam Macke's website: mackefit.com High Point Climbing: HighPointClimbing.com Anvil Crash Pad Rental in Chattanooga: AnvilCrashPadRentals.com New Awesome resource for Route setters: TickTapeTighten.com Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Photo of Adam Macke by Corey Wentz at www.coreywentz.com. Thank you, Corey! Thanks for listening!

About Neely Quinn I (Neely Quinn) am a Nutrition Therapist and a 5.13 rock climber, owner of TrainingBeta, and someone who's obsessed over food, health, and climbing performance since 1999. I've helped thousands of people find their optimal diet, lose weight, and be the best athlete they can be. My nutrition work lives at www.neelyquinn.com. As the host of the TrainingBeta podcast, I'm generally not the one in the spotlight in these interviews, but in this episode, I put my hide on the line and told you my opinions and advice about nutrition for climbers.  What I Talked About In this episode, I asked for questions from you guys before the episode and answered as many of them as I could before getting sick of hearing my own voice ;) A good carb, protein, fat ratio for climbers Whether intermittent fasting is good for climbers Whether ketosis is good for climbers Why healthy centenarians can eat grains but Paleo says they're bad for us How sugar affects us, and how much we should eat Blood type diet Other stuff Related Links Neely's nutrition website: neelyquinn.com Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

Date: July 9th, 2015 About Kevin Jorgeson After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I'm not joking about that). Before the Dawn Wall, I knew Kevin for his highball bouldering; I knew him as a bold, strong-headed climber. After his send of Ambrosia (55-ft V11 in Bishop), he wanted something different to challenge him, so he called up Tommy Caldwell and asked him if he needed a partner for the Dawn Wall. What We Talked About In this conversation, Kevin tells me his own Dawn Wall story, how he fought through the challenges and ultimately succeeded, how he trained for it, and what's next. Which key pieces fell into place to let him send the Dawn Wall The media blow-up about the Dawn Wall How he skipped 14b & c and jumped to sending 14d Why pitch 15 was so hard for him How he dealt with the immense pressure up there Specific training he did for the Dawn Wall Why he switched from highballing to bigwalling Related Links Kevin Jorgeson's website: KevinJorgeson.com Kevin climbing Ambrosia Kevin climbing pitch 15 Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

    Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price.  ==>> Get The Discount   About Dr. Lisa Erikson Dr. Lisa Erikson is a chiropractor out of Boulder, CO with a specialization in Sports Chiropractic and Chiropractic Biomechanics of Posture. She works specifically with climbers, skiers, tennis players, and runners, among other athletes to fix them up when they have injuries and to teach them how to care for their injuries on their own. Dr. Lisa runs the medical for the USAClimbing Sport Climbing Championships, Speed Climbing Championships, and Bouldering Championships. Her new book, Climbing Injuries Solved, helps us learn how to prevent and manage injuries from climbing. An avid multisport athlete, Dr. Lisa competed in collegiate running, cycling, and nordic skiing. A trail runner, ultrarunner, climber, and nordic skier, Dr. Lisa is passionate about making sure athletes are not held back from doing the sports they love. She's got quite the long list of athletic accomplishments, as well as helpful resources on her website, www.lifesportchiro.com. What We Talked About How to recognize and treat finger injuries Self-care for finger, hand, forearm injuries The truth about ice, and why immersion baths are the best How often we should be doing self-care to stay injury-free When to know if you should go to a doctor Links We Mentioned Dr. Lisa Erikson's website: LifeSportChiro.com New book, Climbing Injuries Solved, at ClimbingInjuriesSolved.com Youtube videos at YouTube.com/LifeSportChiro  Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

About Steve Maisch   Steve Maisch is a local SLC strong man and renowned training guru. If you’ve ever run into Steve at the cliff, you know how humble and unassuming he is. Once he pulls onto the wall though, his immense power and strength speak for themselves. He makes very hard moves look easy. Clearly, his training works, and not only for himself. He's had awesome success training other people as a side project of his. What We Talked About How he went from climbing V10 to V13 using a 6-foot wall in his basement What weight training is beneficial for climbers and why How to train for bouldering as opposed to route climbing Circuit training on a bouldering wall The best way to train finger strength Links We Mentioned Steve Maisch's website: SteveMaischTraining.com/ Steve's Training Program This is the training program Steve laid out in the episode for your reference! A big thanks to Steve for putting this together. You'll have to listen to the episode for more details, but this is the basic structure.  Four week block with emphasis on strength:     Four week block with emphasis on strength endurance:   Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

Date: June 10th, 2015 About Hazel Findlay By the time she was 23, Hazel Findlay had made a name for herself as the first woman to send E9 (basically 5.13d but with death fall potential). The British phenom can been seen in videos doing sketchy climbing way above her bolt or gear with seemingly no fear. She started climbing at the age of 7 with her dad, quickly moved up the ranks as a comp climber, and then eventually followed her heart to outdoor climbing, where she's now traveled the globe (Morocco, United States, Australia, to name a few) to climb in all different styles. I wanted to ask her about how she trains, but she told me right off the bat that she doesn't train ;) So this interview is mostly about her mental game, how she's planning to help other climbers with their own confidence, and we talk about her recent shoulder surgery. What We Talked About How she stays present and keeps a positive attitude on challenging climbs Being a woman who's doing things only men have done before Shoulder surgery How she stays humble in the face of hard projects Her plan to help others with their own climbing Links We Mentioned Hazel Findlay's website: HazelFindlayClimbing.com Book on getting and staying in the "zone": Flow In Sports by Susan Jackson Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)   Thanks for listening!

About Arno Ilgner Arno Ilgner is known in the climbing community for his work helping people overcoming fears and be overall mentally stronger. He began climbing and quickly realized that the mental aspect of it was paramount to sending hard climbs. So he started studying up, and resonated with the Warrior's Way philosophy he found in the Carlo Castaneda books about Don Juan. He started applying those tenets to climbing, and soon had an entire program built upon them. He now has books, clinics, and a dense blog devoted to helping you find peace, strength, and bravery in your climbing. I was honored to interview Arno Ilgner and really delve in to how he changes people's perceptions and fears in climbing. What We Talked About Overcoming fear of falling How to stay present and not psych ourselves out on climbs Overcoming fear of failing (and fear of succeeding) How to deal with our big egos getting in the way Exactly how he trains people in his clinics Links We Mentioned Arno's website: WarriorsWay.com Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)   Thanks for listening!

Date: May 27th, 2015 About Bill Ramsey   Bill Ramsey is a legend among climbers, having put up classic first ascents in the Red River Gorge years ago such as Omaha Beach (14a), Golden Boy (13b), and many others. He's 55 years old and he just sent his 3-year project at the Cathedral near St. George, UT, called "Golden for A Moment" (5.14b).  5.14b is about as hard as Bill has ever climbed, even in his 20's and 30's, so with such a huge accomplishment under his belt, I wanted to ask him some questions.   What We Talked About staying motivated after 100's of attempts his 14-hour training days whether his training style has changed as he gets older how he climbs and trains as a full-time philosophy professor at UNLV how he eats for training and loses weight for sending "The Pain Box" - his article on suffering and climbing learning from the failures Links We Mentioned Bill's "The Day I Sent Golden" post on EveningSends.com Bill's "Pain Box" Article: PDF  Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Photo of Bill Ramsey by Mike Call   Thanks for listening!

About Alex Puccio Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15. She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain), she's climbed 7 V13's, and she's done all of this in the past year. Naturally, I wanted to know how she went from climbing V12 to crushing V14 in such a short amount of time, so we talked all about how her training, diet, and mental game have changed recently. What We Talked About Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game Why she doesn't have enough sponsor money, and what she's doing about it How she lost weight, and whether or not she's anorexic What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs Lots more - she's very honest and open Links We Mentioned Alex's RallyMe crowdfunding campaign: Support Her Alex's Facebook page She often posts training videos on Instagram @alex_puccio89 New short film of her taking a break from comp climbing and doing V13's outside, "Switching Gears" Discount on The Best Chalk Ever Alex Puccio loves FrictionLabs chalk, and so do we. This chalk really does make a difference - it's no joke. Go to www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta for a special discount to try it out for yourself. Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review Us on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Music Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings  Thanks for listening!

About Alex Barrows I met Alex Barrows in Rodellar in 2011 when he introduced himself as the Duke of Barrows, which we believed for several hours. It would've been so cool if that had been true, but alas. He's just a British PhD student at Sheffield University with a hilarious sense of humor. He's also really strong, despite his rigorous school schedule and lack of good weather where he lives. When I met Alex, he was trying really hard on a 14a for weeks. Then I saw him a couple years later in the Red River Gorge, where I immediately noticed he'd improved dramatically. He was onsighting 13+ and sending 14s like it was his job. Then I heard he sent Era Vella (5.14d in Spain) this spring, '15, and I had to know how he was improving so much. This interview is an extremely detailed account of his training plan and philosophies, with some charming British humor thrown in there. What we talked about: Exactly how and when he trained for Era Vella How his training has evolved over the years, and how he learned so much about it How he stays so psyched to train 6 days a week What he does to avoid injuries, and whether or not he climbs through them when he has them All about circuit training How he finds time and money to project things in different countries, despite being a full-time student How he reached his sending weight, and whether or not climbers should always be thin Things We Mentioned Alex's epic training plan and philosophies: Alex Barrows Training PDF He credits Tom Randall (of Wide Boyz fame) for a lot of his training knowledge: tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com Fix Your Own Arms with ArmAid If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works. We wrote a glowing review about it here.  You can learn more on their website at ArmAid.com.   Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com. Please Review Us on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Music Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings  Thanks for listening!