The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

  In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles.  She also addresses how important of a factor mindset is during pregnancy and normalizes a lot of the common hurdles that women face during the “season” of pregnancy. Joy Black, B.A., NASM CPT is a Certified Personal Trainer and Pregnancy and Postnatal Exercise Specialist/Athleticism Coach.  She is also an avid climber as well as runner and importantly to this conversation, a mother of two!       Joy Black Interview Details Important things to know as pregnant athlete Strengthening the deep core, diaphragm, and pelvic floor to support your body during pregnancy General overview on what to expect during each of the trimesters Importance of staying empowered and focusing on what you can be doing – which is a lot Considerations while climbing to help minimize additional pressure on an already strained system What is diastasis and how new research is helping women get back to strengthening the core sooner Mindset considerations and potential hurdles plus insight on how to stay focused on your own journey Pelvic Floor PT’s and why you should have one as part of your team How our bodies are incredibly resilient and how pregnancy does not mean your athletic career and goals will be limited       Joy Black Links Instagram @calliejoyblack Email:  joy@trainedbyjoy.com       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.  By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are likely to work best.  He also answers a lot of commonly asked questions and gives his opinion on various topics around hangboarding and more. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. This is my first interaction with Tyler, apart from listening to all his other podcasts with a pen and notepad.  His ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I couldn’t have been more psyched to have the opportunity to ask him a ton of questions.  While I am new to the podcast you could say Tyler is a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries       Tyler Nelson Interview Details How our hand size can determine what we should or shouldn’t do on a hangboard How knowing our rate of recovery can save us tons of time Results he’s seeing with clients General advice on what to do if you have a sore finger When to do this during training/performance cycles General hangboarding questions answered What forms of training he would love to see go extinct The importance of appropriate training load Explanations on exciting new research regarding connective tissue       Tyler Nelson Links Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

Females in Climbing  In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She’s sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, TRX certified, and she’s completed Stacy Sims’ Women Are Not Small Men course. In this episode we talk all about the specific needs of females in training for climbing. We cover topics like what to expect during certain weeks of your cycle, how to train during each of them, and why Alex (and so many females) was in denial about women needing to train differently than men for so long.       FREE Women’s Train Smarter Challenge Starts Next Week  On Monday, May 3rd, 2021 through Friday the 7th, Alex will be hosting a challenge for females that will help you learn how to train for your body’s specific needs. It’s completely free, and even if you can’t make the live calls we’ll send the recordings out to you. Schedule of Events Day 1: Tracking your period + How to plan your week Day 2: Myths about Women’s Strengths and Weaknesses + Workout Day 3: Female mindset – how hormones affect our performance mindset + tools to still perform our best Day 4: How (and when) Women Should Strength Train + Workout Day 5: How to use goals to create a map for success To learn more about the event and to sign up absolutely FREE, click the button below. LEARN ABOUT THE CHALLENGE FOR WOMEN       Alex Stiger Interview Details Why we can’t train like small men How changes in our hormones throughout the month can guide our training Being in denial about being a woman in sport How we can do better as women and as coaches How everything she knew about her menstrual cycle was in hindsight before Myths she’s held as a woman Fear and pain sensitivity the week before period       Alex Stiger Interview Links  Join the Challenge for Free Instagram: @alex.stiger

About Lauren Abernathy Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it’s going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a passionate skier as well as a climber, so we also talk about how she’s learned to effectively do both at the same time. She’s had some great success with her clients, many of whom don’t have much time for training, so she lets us in on some tips for how to train when you’re super busy with other stuff. This one is full of little nuggets of wisdom that you can apply to your life right now, and Lauren’s excitement and passion for climbing is infectious. I really enjoyed talking with her. If you want to learn more from Lauren… She’s offering $100 off her new Crush It: Sport Climbing training program right now. Or you can check out her other services on her site.       Lauren Abernathy Interview Details Going from corporate world to full-time climbing coach How to ski and train for climbing at the same time Minimalist finger strength training success stories Tips for busy climbers on how to fit training into schedule The biggest lessons she’s learned through coaching people       Lauren Abernathy Links  www.goodsprayclimbing.com Instagram: @goodspraycoaching Her new sport climbing training program             Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing. They have a 4-day retreat coming up in April in Veyo, Utah that will help climbers with the following topics: Befriending Fear Performance Climbing Rock-Life Balance Art of Attention Successful Climbing Goals Yoga for Climbers They’re offering 10% off for TrainingBeta listeners using the code “trainingbeta10” and you can find more about the event in the link below: LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CLIMBWELL RETREAT   I wanted to ask them about the basics of what they’ll be teaching at the retreat, so I asked all 3 of them to be on the show. All of these topics are so relevant to all of us, but we focused a lot on finding balance in your life while also being passionate about climbing. Please visit their website to find out more about what they teach and about the retreat at www.climbwell.co.   ClimbWell Interview Details What people will get out of the retreat Finding balance in your life while being passionate about climbing Dealing with fear in climbing Wheel of Life Coaching Tool Climbing as an addiction – how to find balance How are values can guide our actions appropriately Visualization practice How to find happiness How to stop being so black and white about climbing and life in general   ClimbWell Links  ClimbWell Retreat (Use “trainingbeta10” for 10% off): www.climbwell.co/retreat Climbwell Website: www.climbwell.co Gaby’s personal website: www.gabycolletta.com Remy’s personal website: www.remyfranklin.com Blake’s personal website: www.startyourpivot.com Instagram: @climbwell.co Remy’s 1st interview on TrainingBeta       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… Personal Coaching Online For Boulderers of All Abilities For Route Climbers of All Abilities Finger Strength  All of our Training Programs       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.     Transcript Coming soon…

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he’s an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017. In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity. CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM       Matt Pincus Interview Details Our new training program and why we changed it Getting away from training according to grades and more according to training experience Some examples of successful programs with his clients How to structure an effective bouldering training program How to level up your training over time Why to train strength, power, skills, and power capacity all at once How to train while trying to perform well outside       Matt Pincus Interview Links  New Bouldering Program Train with Matt: www.trainingbeta.com/matt Matt’s Instagram: @mpincus87       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Bouldering Training Program Finger Training Programs (code: “home” for 25% off) Injury Protocols All of our training programs             Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we’ve learned along the way. It can be difficult to stay motivated and take care of yourself when all you really want to be doing is climbing. It can feel sort of like punishment sometimes, but the main things to remember are that you’ll get through it and you can (usually) become just as strong or stronger than you were pre-injury. In the meantime, we’ll tell you how we have learned to honestly enjoy being injured sometimes. Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. If you’d like to work with her doing remote coaching, you can find more info on that at www.trainingbeta.com/alex.       Alex Stiger Interview Details Brief overview of our injuries What our recovery times are/were What we’ve been doing to stay psyched and happy despite injury Why it’s important to still be around climbing if it’s part of your social life Strengthening other weaknesses while your injury heals The frustrations of the medical industry Why we wish we would’ve sought help earlier       Alex Stiger Interview Links  Work with Alex as your coach  Instagram: @alex.stiger 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast 2nd Interview with Alex: How Getting Stronger Made Her a Better Coach

Eric Hörst shares insights on training for climbers over 35, discussing recovery support, physiological changes with age, slowing aging, avoiding excessive training, importance of sleep, and declining recovery abilities. He emphasizes personalized training, self-awareness, and balanced nutrition. Also, he delves into his climbing-specific nutrition products and tailored training programs for older climbers.

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing. Normally, we’re training strength or strength endurance on the hangboard by hanging with bodyweight, a pulley system, or weight attached to our bodies. However, Tyler talks about how we can just pull on the hangboard, without our feet leaving the ground, and increase our reps in order to train for long, endurance climbs. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called To Pull or Hang, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven’t read it yet, and you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 7 other podcast episodes with him. You could say he’s a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries     Tyler Nelson Interview Details How to change finger training to focus on endurance Concentric pulling rather than hanging Results he’s seeing with clients Whether this method creates more injury When to do this during training/performance cycles Nerdy parts of the research on this Why people shake when they’re trying hard Finger curls vs finger rolls Protocol for intermediate climber   Tyler Nelson Links Article by Tyler about training fingers for endurance Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology. Due to her personal background in climbing, her main focus is on the psychology in climbing. She has been climbing, learning and exploring for as long as she can remember. Throughout the past decade, she travelled the world representing Austria at youth climbing competitions and later on in the one or other Bouldering World Cup. Nowadays you can still find her climbing in the gym or outdoors as often as possible. She has done lead climbs and boulders in the 8th grade outside (Font & French grades). Fear of Falling Masterclass Discount Madeleine recently published a Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers, which you can purchase at any time to work through your fears of falling. Madeleine is also giving TrainingBeta listeners $60 off with code #TRAININGBETA. I asked her to be on the podcast because sometimes the fear of falling keeps us from reaching our potential as climbers; it’s so important to work through it if it’s holding you back. So in this interview we discussed the different reasons that climbers are afraid of falling and, using the tenets of her masterclass, how we can overcome those fears. CHECK OUT THE MASTERCLASS   Madeleine Crane Interview Details How sport psychology helped her as a competition climber Reasons people are afraid to fall Overview of masterclass Understanding your fear Is your fear rational? Steps she takes to feel comfortable lead climbing Becoming aware of your fear responses Trusting your climbing partner What you can do every day to help fear while climbing Breathing, mantras, and meditations My own strategies for dealing with fear   Madeleine Crane Links  www.climbingpsychology.com Fear of Fallinf Masterclass: www.climbingpsychology.com use code #TRAININGBETA for $60 off Instagram: @climbingpsychology Work with Madeleine   Rock Climbing Training Programs  Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.