The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he’s an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017. In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity. CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM       Matt Pincus Interview Details Our new training program and why we changed it Getting away from training according to grades and more according to training experience Some examples of successful programs with his clients How to structure an effective bouldering training program How to level up your training over time Why to train strength, power, skills, and power capacity all at once How to train while trying to perform well outside       Matt Pincus Interview Links  New Bouldering Program Train with Matt: www.trainingbeta.com/matt Matt’s Instagram: @mpincus87       Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Bouldering Training Program Finger Training Programs (code: “home” for 25% off) Injury Protocols All of our training programs             Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we’ve learned along the way. It can be difficult to stay motivated and take care of yourself when all you really want to be doing is climbing. It can feel sort of like punishment sometimes, but the main things to remember are that you’ll get through it and you can (usually) become just as strong or stronger than you were pre-injury. In the meantime, we’ll tell you how we have learned to honestly enjoy being injured sometimes. Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. If you’d like to work with her doing remote coaching, you can find more info on that at www.trainingbeta.com/alex.       Alex Stiger Interview Details Brief overview of our injuries What our recovery times are/were What we’ve been doing to stay psyched and happy despite injury Why it’s important to still be around climbing if it’s part of your social life Strengthening other weaknesses while your injury heals The frustrations of the medical industry Why we wish we would’ve sought help earlier       Alex Stiger Interview Links  Work with Alex as your coach  Instagram: @alex.stiger 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast 2nd Interview with Alex: How Getting Stronger Made Her a Better Coach

Eric Hörst shares insights on training for climbers over 35, discussing recovery support, physiological changes with age, slowing aging, avoiding excessive training, importance of sleep, and declining recovery abilities. He emphasizes personalized training, self-awareness, and balanced nutrition. Also, he delves into his climbing-specific nutrition products and tailored training programs for older climbers.

About Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing. Normally, we’re training strength or strength endurance on the hangboard by hanging with bodyweight, a pulley system, or weight attached to our bodies. However, Tyler talks about how we can just pull on the hangboard, without our feet leaving the ground, and increase our reps in order to train for long, endurance climbs. Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called To Pull or Hang, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven’t read it yet, and you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.   You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries. I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 7 other podcast episodes with him. You could say he’s a bit of a staple around here. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training. Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries     Tyler Nelson Interview Details How to change finger training to focus on endurance Concentric pulling rather than hanging Results he’s seeing with clients Whether this method creates more injury When to do this during training/performance cycles Nerdy parts of the research on this Why people shake when they’re trying hard Finger curls vs finger rolls Protocol for intermediate climber   Tyler Nelson Links Article by Tyler about training fingers for endurance Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

About Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology. Due to her personal background in climbing, her main focus is on the psychology in climbing. She has been climbing, learning and exploring for as long as she can remember. Throughout the past decade, she travelled the world representing Austria at youth climbing competitions and later on in the one or other Bouldering World Cup. Nowadays you can still find her climbing in the gym or outdoors as often as possible. She has done lead climbs and boulders in the 8th grade outside (Font & French grades). Fear of Falling Masterclass Discount Madeleine recently published a Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers, which you can purchase at any time to work through your fears of falling. Madeleine is also giving TrainingBeta listeners $60 off with code #TRAININGBETA. I asked her to be on the podcast because sometimes the fear of falling keeps us from reaching our potential as climbers; it’s so important to work through it if it’s holding you back. So in this interview we discussed the different reasons that climbers are afraid of falling and, using the tenets of her masterclass, how we can overcome those fears. CHECK OUT THE MASTERCLASS   Madeleine Crane Interview Details How sport psychology helped her as a competition climber Reasons people are afraid to fall Overview of masterclass Understanding your fear Is your fear rational? Steps she takes to feel comfortable lead climbing Becoming aware of your fear responses Trusting your climbing partner What you can do every day to help fear while climbing Breathing, mantras, and meditations My own strategies for dealing with fear   Madeleine Crane Links  www.climbingpsychology.com Fear of Fallinf Masterclass: www.climbingpsychology.com use code #TRAININGBETA for $60 off Instagram: @climbingpsychology Work with Madeleine   Rock Climbing Training Programs  Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Marisa Michael Marisa Michael is a dietitian, a personal trainer, and an athlete. She’s been a dietitian for 18 years and has a private practice at RealNutritionLLC.com where she helps athletes optimize nutrition for sports performance, from recreational to elite. While she has mainly focused on running and triathlons, 6 years ago when her son got into climbing, she followed suit. The reason I wanted to speak with Marisa is that she has a lot of knowledge about Intuitive Eating, which is a popular topic right now. She gives us an explanation of exactly what it is and how it can be used to improve our health and our relationship with food.     Marisa Michael Interview Details 10 Principles of Intuitive Eating Who it’s helpful for Who it may not work for Intuitive Eating and Caffeine Usage Eating Disorders and Intuitive Eating “Health at Every Size” Discussion Weight Loss Goals and Intuitive Eating     Marisa Michael Links  Website: realnutritionllc.com Instagram: @realnutritiondietitian Marisa’s new book: Nutrition for Climbers: Fuel for the Send BOOKS ON INTUITIVE EATING Intuitive Eating by Evelyn Tribole Health at Every Size by Linda Bacon Anti-Diet by Christy Harrison     Rock Climbing Training Programs  Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta… At-Home Training Program Personal Training Online Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength Programs All of our training programs         Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my best friends and a super dedicated trainer/coach. I’ve watched her improve her climbing exponentially over the last 5 years through efficient and specific training. I wanted to have her on the show again to talk about how her coaching has evolved as she has, and how she’s come back strong after difficult injuries. You’ll be hearing more from Alex on TrainingBeta soon, so stay tuned for that.     Alex Stiger Interview Details Difference between her coaching as a 5.13a climber and now as a 5.13d climber Overcoming big shoulder injury to come back strong How she improved her climbing so much More assessments, fewer assumptions in training How more rest helped her climb harder Why she changed her core workouts Training program coming up on TrainingBeta for women What she focuses on with older climber clients     Alex Stiger Interview Links  Instagram: @alex.stiger Article by Alex: 3 Ways to Develop Your Strongest Core 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs         Photo Credit Photo of Alex on Homunculous 5.14a in Rifle by Jill Stompel @shmitpiex     Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.     Transcript Coming soon…

About Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is www.sustainabledish.com, where you’ll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat: Why Well-Raised Meat Is Good for You and Good for the Planet.  She also produced a film, Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat and you can sign up to watch the world premier starting November 22, 2020 here. I watched the film and it’s fantastic. It’s all about how we’ve been raising meat all wrong since the industrial revolution, and how our mismanaged farm and ranch lands are destroying the environment. When animals are raised properly, their biproducts and behaviors actually sequester carbon, help plants grow deeper roots to maintain foliage, and make our soil much more nutritious and viable. It’s the cycle of life, and it’s been this way since there have been plants and animals. I asked Diana to be on my show because nutrition is low hanging fruit for climbers, and when I ask my clients to eat more protein, they feel better and climb better. Meat in all its forms is the most nutrient dense and efficient form of protein we can eat, but a lot of climbers have eschewed meat for the sake of the environment and their health. But I–rather, Diana–is here to tell you that meat, when raised properly and humanely, can be supremely helpful to the environment and very beneficial to your health, much to the contrary of what you’ve been told recently. In fact, plant-based diets can actually be quite detrimental to both the environment and your health. There’s a lot to learn here. Please give this one a listen. I guarantee you’ll learn something, whether you’re a plant-based or carnivore eater, or anything in between. I really appreciate you listening.       Diana Rodgers Interview Details Why meat is not actually bad for us Why plant-based diets are not good for disease Why plant-based diets are not good for the environment Why protein recommendations are way too low What’s wrong with studies done on meat What it’s so important for children to have animal products Saturated Fat and Cholesterol 101 Her thoughts on the movie Game Changers     Diana Rodgers Interview Links  Instagram: @sustainabledish Sacred Cow book Sacred Cow film Where I get my sustainable, humanely-raised meat: Wild Pastures Where you can get local sustainable, humanely-raised meat: eatwild.com More info on meat, cholesterol, saturated fat, etc ChrisKresser.com Chris Masterjohn PhD Denise Minger and the China Study     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs

About John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film “Up to Speed.” John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of his proudest accomplishments: 1. 6-time Open Speed National Champion 2. National speed climbing record holder 3. 2018 Pan-Amercian Speed Champion 4. 2019 U.S. Overall Team Member 5. Sending The Vice, 8B/V13 in Rocklands, South Africa Pretty impressive, right? That’s why I asked him to be on the show to talk about how he trains for speed climbing. He clearly takes his sport very seriously and he personally piqued my interest in speed climbing, so I was honored that he agreed to this interview. NOTE: This interview was recorded on March 19, 2020 in the beginning of the COVID lockdowns, so some logistics we talk about may not line up with what’s happening right now. The training information is still as relevant as ever, though. John Brosler Interview Details Speed Climbing 101: A primer on the sport Exacly how he trains day by day for speed climbing How his diet affects his training and performance Whether or not he climbs outside Why it sometimes comes down to luck who wins His thoughts on the Olympic and World Cup format John Brosler Interview Links  Instagram: @johnbrosler Rent or buy the Reel Rock film “Up to Speed” Article on GymClimber.com by John called “Speed Climbing 101” Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… At-Home Training Program Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Interview Details: Dr. Jared Vagy on Hip Injuries Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about common hip injuries in climbers and what to do about them. It’s super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on hip injuries, so I hope it helps you out. More Details Why healthy hips are important for climbing What the most common hip injuries are How shoulder pain and hip pain can be related How to tell if hip pain is originating from back Specific stretches for high-stepping What to do about hip injuries   Other Interviews with Dr. Vagy Interview #1: We talked in general about how to heal injuries, but since that time he has gotten way more specific about the steps we need to take to address them. Interview #2: He talked about how to heal shoulder impingement. Interview #3: We talked about rotator cuff injuries and neck strain. Interview #4: We discussed finger pulley sprains. Interview #5: We discussed elbow injuries.   Jared Vagy Professional Credentials Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report. He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist.   Supporting Videos from Episode Hip Mobility Part 1   Hip Mobility Part 2     Rock Rehab Protocol Links Dr. Vagy has created 6 injury protocols using his Rock Rehab Pyramid method that are available on TrainingBeta. You can find out more about his methods by clicking on any of the links below. You can see a description of all of the protocols (which we’ve made available for $15 each) at www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab. Inside Elbow Pain Outside Elbow Pain Finger Pulley Sprain Shoulder Impingement Rotator Cuff Strain Neck Strain Dr. Jared Vagy Links Jared’s book, Climb Injury Free Website: www.theclimbingdoctor.com Instagram: @theclimbingdoctor     Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/mercedes For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page       Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.   Transcript Coming soon…