The New Garde with Alyssa Vingan

Beauty has always sent big political messages, and that’s perhaps never been more evident than it is today. This week, Alyssa sits down with Jessica DeFino, the brilliant mind behind The Review of Beauty newsletter, to discuss the aesthetic vibe shift she’s seen since Trump was elected for his second term — and the conservative leaning beauty trends she saw bubbling up before then that were a harbinger of things to come. Tune in to hear how Jessica’s time working for the Kardashian official apps led her to question everything she thought about beauty, as well as her insights about why the “Clean Girl” trend was a huge indicator of something shifting and cosmetic class performance hidden as self-care; the recent glorification of the time, effort, and money that goes into looking beautiful, or the Protestant work ethic for prettiness; the regressive cultural return to traditional femininity and masculinity that’s tied to what’s happening in beauty; why exercising control and autonomy through beauty and our bodies is a direct reaction to the lack of autonomy we feel elsewhere in our lives; how MAHA has bled into the beauty and wellness industries, and why we should have seen the raw milk thing coming through the lens of beauty; how Mar-a-Lago face is meant to communicate power and your status as “elite” via work you’ve had done; unpacking the “Conservative Girl” and “Republican Makeup” trends on TikTok; the consequences of beauty ideals getting ingrained younger and younger; beauty as the new American dream, and where we find the identity and drive we used to derive from jobs; why beauty TikTok is the manosphere for women, and so much more. This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

If you follow the fashion and beauty industries closely, then you know that a week rarely goes by without a brand collaboration announcement. From mall brands like J.Crew and Gap, to sportswear giants like Nike and Adidas, to luxury powerhouses like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Versace, brands across the market spectrum have entered the collaboration game — and those that haven’t are getting left behind. This week, Alyssa is joined by Steve Dool, senior director of brand marketing at Depop, to dig deep into the world of brand collabs. Tune in to hear Steve’s insights about what collaborations can do for small brands aside from a short-term infusion of money and exposure; the benefits on both sides of a partnership; why clout is fleeting and you need to be able to follow it up with other stuff; why the content surrounding a collaboration is often more important than the product itself; a frank discussion on what makes a smart partnership versus a confusing or pandering one; their personal highs and lows of collabs from the past few years; where the role of “celebrity creative director” is heading; whether we’ll ever reach “peak collab” or if this is just how things are now, and much more. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

You’ve likely noticed lot of talk about media’s “good ol’ days” bubbling up recently: Two of the most buzzed about books in New York’s literary circles are “When the Going Was Good,” Graydon Carter’s dishy memoir on the industry’s heyday, and the upcoming “Empire of the Elite,” a look back at Condé Nast’s golden age. Last week, Radhika Jones — one of the last remaining American editors (reportedly) to pull a seven-figure salary — announced her departure from Vanity Fair, where she’s been at the helm since 2017. This all begs the question: What lies ahead for magazines, and what power do legendary titles hold in 2025? This week, Alyssa is joined by Samantha Leach, associate director of special projects at Bustle and NYLON (and author of “The Elissas”), to discuss the state of both print and digital media in depth. Tune in to hear their insights about cover booking, as well as the politics and strategies behind it; the shift from journalists to creators when it comes to interviewing celebrities; how scrappiness in editorial can breed creativity and yield great results; the tricky topic of access to talent and dealing with increasing demands from publicists; how publishers can stay relevant during this time of major change; stealth sponsored content; why events are crucial for any media brand; why print is neither back nor dead, but a secret third thing, and so much more. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

You’ve likely heard that the fragrance business is booming, and this week, Alyssa sits down with one of the newest perfumers on the scene: Trey Taylor, founder of Serviette, which launched earlier this year. Trey began his career by climbing the ranks in independent fashion media and earning a masters in fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins — complete with stints at Dazed, Fantastic Man, Interview, and The Face — before pivoting into beauty, building his brand as a side project while keeping a full time job. Tune in for some incredible tales from Trey’s time in editorial (and when he heard the death knell for his magazine career), as well as how his interest in fragrance piqued after writing an article about how celebrities smell; the challenges of being a niche brand in a massive market; what it was like learning the fragrance ropes from the legendary Marissa Zappas; the culture of Fragrantica and online perfume fandom; the process behind formulating the first four fragrances in his line, as well as its visual identity; why cultural curiosity is the driving force behind Serviette; why being delusional is important for success, and much more. This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

If there’s a girl in your Instagram feed whose unique style strikes you — and who wears brands you hadn’t heard of before she posted them — chances are high that she shops at Maimoun. This week, Alyssa sits down with Mina Alyeshmerni, the store’s owner and curator, to talk all things retail, particularly the challenges that come with championing young, niche designers. Tune in to hear about Mina’s journey pursuing fashion in a first-generation Iranian family, as well as her experience training under Julie Gilhart and Tomoko Ogura at Barneys as a first foray into working with emerging designers, sometimes while they were still in school; what it was like working in the personal shopping department at Barneys in its heyday with high-profile clientele (and some personal shopping blind items); being an early proponent of mixing new and vintage at retail; digging deep into fashion forums online and surfing Tumblr to find design talent; building an audience and community on Instagram before opening her store by posting her fashion illustrations; starting an online business by herself; the risks and rewards that come with taking chances on unknown design talent; opening a permanent brick-and-mortar location in Williamsburg; the supportive, mentor-like relationships buyers can have with the designers they carry; how to build a curation; why POV is so important in every aspect of retail; why sometimes as an entrepreneur, ignorance is bliss, and much more. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

The time has come for TNG’s biannual unhinged recap of Fashion Month, and this week’s guest, Tyler McCall, is back by popular demand. Tune in to hear the ladies’ takes on Fall 2025 season, including their insights on all of the best (and worst) collections, viral moments, breaking news, designer debuts and departures, front rows, models, and so much more. Enjoy! This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

This week, Alyssa gets a guided tour through the whimsical world of Susan Alexandra, straight from the brain behind the brand, Susan Korn. What started with some metal jewelry handmade in a class she took on her time off — and later, a beaded watermelon bag she had made in Chinatown and haphazardly posted on Instagram — has turned into a full-fledged, self-funded business that’s been around for over a decade, complete with a standalone retail store. Despite the brand’s perennial cheeriness, hitting this milestone hasn’t been a cakewalk. Tune in to hear Susan’s sage wisdom for entrepreneurs and aspiring designers, as well as her horror stories from working retail and interning at magazines upon arriving in New York; what it was like getting Henri Bendel and Opening Ceremony as early accounts; the difficulties of figuring out how to scale a business without training or infrastructure, and learning the logistics of manufacturing on the fly; the importance of community in the Susan Alexandra universe; her strategy for out-of-the-box runway shows and presentations; how collaborations allow her brand to make things out of its wheelhouse and take the work to the next level; selling (and explaining) herself to suits in order to win new business and lock in collaborators; starting a second brand, Rosette, with a friend and dipping her toe into making clothes; her dream of building a lifestyle brand akin to Ralph Lauren or Martha Stewart, and much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

One day, you’re just a girl moving to New York from Canada with a visa and a dream, and a few years down the line, you’re an in-demand industry success story. Such is the case with this week’s guest. Alyssa sits down with Ariella Starkman, founder and executive producer of the full-service creative production company Starkman & Associates, as well as the managing director at HommeGirls, to learn all about the wild world of production. You’ve likely seen one (or several) of Ariella’s events come across your Instagram or TikTok feed, as she and her team have built out experiences for some of the coolest, most sought-after brands on the scene, including Anna Sui, Dazed, Kim Shui, Luar, Nike, Sky High Farm, Stussy, Telfar, Vans, and Warby Parker. At a time when everyone is getting into the IRL activations game, Ariella operates under the philosophy that chic events are a dime a dozen, and making people feel like their time has been considered when they show up for something is crucial. Tune in to hear how Bravo’s “Gallery Girls” inspired Ariella to start a career in the art world and led her to produce her first event in her early 20s, a warehouse art show in Toronto; how time is our most valuable resource and making experiences worthwhile through the details is her company’s guiding principle; navigating the attention economy as a creative and a business owner; the importance of never phoning anything in; the dangers of “compare and despair;” why being the first person to do something is a double-edged sword, but while people may copy you, the sauce is not replicable; how to create a sense of curiosity by finding new, unexpected event spaces; why building a tight-knit professional community is key to finding meaning in your work; why at the end of the day, it’s just not that serious, and much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com

Amanda Mull, a senior reporter at Bloomberg Businessweek and expert on consumer culture, dives deep into the rising costs of fashion. She discusses how wealthy boredom during the pandemic fueled luxury price hikes and why younger consumers struggle to enter the luxury market. Amanda explores the shift from craftsmanship to merchandising among brands and the intriguing success of the Marc Jacobs Tote Bag. The conversation also highlights the emergence of dupe culture as a response to high prices and the evolving landscape of social media and its impact on fashion.

When asked the question “What is it that you do?” sometimes the answer isn’t so simple, and it’s best to let the work speak for itself. Such has been the case for Kristen Naiman, the chief creative officer at The RealReal, who’s worn many hats over the course of her career, from writer to editor to stylist to fashion executive. In this week’s episode, Kristen unpacks her fascinating journey, from her first industry gigs that had her styling at a short-lived Condé Nast title in its heyday (who remembers Condé Nast Sports for Women?), as well as for Hanson, who brought her along to style and creative direct them on a world tour when she was in her early 20s. Tune in to hear more of Kristen’s incredible lore, as well as what it was like learning the fashion and media ropes in the thriving community of creative people in downtown New York and through her friends at PAPER; how a DIY jean jacket she embroidered for Taylor Hanson got the attention of the Gap, and helped her get a job in its concept department in the peak Mickey Drexler days; why the ability to take the cultural temperature is the key to a brand’s success; how she wound up working with Isaac Mizrahi for a decade as a fashion director, and how he taught her the importance of being unapologetically yourself; lessons from her subsequent decade-long stint at Kate Spade at the dawn of the digital era; why working in fashion requires a spidey sense and gut instinct that data can’t fully replace; why brands are dipping into long form content and why The RealReal just launched a Substack; how a cold DM helped her get her job at The RealReal; how she hopes to change the relationship with how we consume fashion; what it was like editing Kim Hastreiter’s forthcoming book, Stuff: A New York Life of Cultural Chaos, and much more.This episode was recorded in the podcast studio at The SQ @ 205 Hudson. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit thenewgarde.substack.com