The Strong AF Climbing Podcast

This episode breaks down the truth about muscle imbalances and asymmetry in athletes. Natasha and Ryan explore why asymmetry is normal, why it often gets blamed for injuries without evidence, and why strength training and load tolerance matter far more than chasing perfect symmetry. They walk through current research, explain how injuries change asymmetry rather than the other way around, and discuss why the best rehab focuses on building strength, restoring confidence, and exposing the body to sport-specific loads instead of “fixing imbalances.”TAKEAWAYS:• Research consistently shows that asymmetries increase after injury, not usually before.• Small side-to-side differences are normal in climbers and most athletes.• Asymmetry rarely predicts injury on its own.• Chasing perfect symmetry distracts from the real rehab goal: restoring load tolerance.• Training at a challenging but tolerable intensity often reduces perceived imbalances.• Most “imbalances” resolve as strength and confidence return.• Regular exposure to climbing-specific forces matters more than corrective exercises.• Functional strength and movement quality are better benchmarks than symmetry numbers.• Pain, deconditioning, and fear can create the sensation of imbalance.• You are not broken for feeling uneven. It’s a normal adaptation to training or injury.Follow Ryan on InstagramRyan's websiteFollow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury Consultation or Rehab CoachingTrain with me My Website

Struggling to stay consistent with your training? Discover why lapses are simply data, not failure. Learn how to move past perfectionism with the RECOMMIT Framework, which offers practical steps to rebuild your momentum. Natasha shares how to set realistic goals, create a supportive environment, and prioritize small actions. You’ll also find tools to track your progress and shift your mindset from guilt to action. Get ready to embrace training as a lifelong skill and reignite your motivation!

If your shoulder still hurts no matter how much rehab you’ve done, this episode is for you. We’re digging into why traditional shoulder rehab fails climbers, what the latest shoulder pain research actually says, and how to build a better plan that gets you back to the wall stronger and more confident.In this episode, I cover:Why most shoulder rehab for climbers is under-dosed and not climbing-specificWhat the research says about pain during rehab and when it’s okay to keep trainingWhy posture correction, scapular mechanics, and banded exercises aren’t the full solutionThe truth about MRI findings, rotator cuff tears, and what pain really meansHow I structure climbing-specific shoulder rehab programs, including movement patterns, isolation work, and load progressionWhether you’ve been told you have shoulder impingement, rotator cuff tendinopathy, or just feel like your shoulder isn’t keeping up with your climbing — this episode will help you understand why, and what to do next.Ready for a plan that’s actually built for climbers?Book a 1:1 consultation or join the 8-week Shoulder Reset Program to rebuild a stronger, more resilient shoulder.Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury Consultation or Rehab CoachingTrain with me My Website

In this episode, I unpack why traditional shoulder rehab often fails climbers — and how to rethink the entire approach. Using guided reasoning and evidence from leading studies, we challenge the most common myths about shoulder pain and rotator cuff injuries.You’ll learn:🔹 Why rest and avoidance aren’t the answerWe explore why rest often leads to temporary relief but long-term setbacks — and how graded loading is the true medicine for shoulder pain.🔹 The problem with “banded exercises forever”Progressive overload matters. We break down what kind of exercise actually works — and what the latest research says about exercise.🔹 How to train through pain — safely and effectivelyWe dig into the Smith et al. meta-analysis showing that tolerable pain during rehab isn’t harmful — and may even improve outcomes when managed correctly.🔹 Why surgery isn't the gold standard — and might not be necessary at allWe review landmark studies showing that:Pain does not correlate with tear size (Dunn et al.)Most small-to-medium rotator cuff tears can be rehabbed without surgery (Moosmayer et al., Kukkonen et al., Karjalainen et al.)Even full-thickness traumatic tears respond well to rehab (Boorman et al., Kuhn et al.)Failed surgical repairs don’t always lead to worse outcomes (Holtedahl et al.)Sham surgeries work just as well as real ones (Paavola et al., Schroder et al.)🔹 What effective rehab actually looks like for climbersWe close the episode by showing what real rehab should include: climbing-specific loading, total-body strength, education around pain, and a progressive plan that actually builds capacity instead of avoiding discomfort.This episode is packed with practical insights and paradigm-shifting takeaways that will help you — or your clients — stop spinning their wheels and start seeing real progress.🎧 Hit play now and find out why your shoulder rehab hasn’t been working — and what to do instead.Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website

Explore the intriguing relationship between MRI findings and shoulder pain in climbers. Discover that structural changes don’t always indicate a problem, revealing surprising insights from elite climbers. Learn practical strategies for managing shoulder health, emphasizing function over imaging. Uncover when medical imaging is truly necessary and how to build stronger, more resilient shoulders. This episode challenges conventional wisdom and reframes the understanding of shoulder health for climbers.

Explore the world of shoulder pain in climbers and its surprising prevalence. Discover the anatomy of the shoulder and how it influences climbing performance. Hear personal stories that highlight the real impact of these injuries on daily life. Get the facts straight as common myths about shoulder pain are debunked. Plus, learn about the importance of posture and strength training in recovery. This enlightening conversation is packed with valuable insights for climbers seeking to understand and manage shoulder health.

In this episode Natasha emphasizes the significance of consistency in training, discussing how it leads to long-term progress. She addresses common mental barriers like black and white thinking, encourages the creation of a minimum viable training plan, and highlights the importance of discipline over motivation. She also explains that progress is not linear and that fluctuations in performance are normal. She provides strategies for maintaining flexibility in training plans and adapting to life's challenges while staying committed to training goals.Chapters00:00 The Importance of Consistency in Training03:06 Overcoming Black and White Thinking04:53 Creating a Minimum Viable Training Plan07:21 Discipline Over Motivation10:01 Flexibility in Training Plans12:15 Understanding Non-Linear Progress15:19 The Role of Volume in Training18:30 Embracing Fluctuations in PerformanceFollow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website

Today I’m pulling back the curtain on what the Foundational Strength Training Program actually is.Because if you’ve ever looked at it and thought, “Eh, I could just get a program like this on ChatGPT or in a climbing training book” you are exactly who this episode is for.SummaryIn this episode, I’m diving into what the Foundational Strength Program (FSP) is really all about. This isn’t just a list of exercises, it’s a full support system designed to help climbers stay consistent with strength training all year long. I talk about why flexibility, coaching, and community are key to making real progress, and I walk you through everything that’s included in the program, from seasonal tracks and time-crunch options to workshops, pain and injury guidance, and free form checks in our private Discord. I also share who this program is designed for, who it’s probably not a great fit for, and why that clarity matters when you’re thinking about your long-term goals as a climber.TakeawaysThe FSP is designed as a full support system for climbers.Many online programs fail to adapt to real-life situations.Strength training benefits not only climbing performance but also overall health.The FSP includes 15 different training programs for various needs.Community support is crucial for maintaining motivation and consistency.Workshops in the FSP help climbers become more independent in their training.Goal setting and planning are essential for long-term success.The program is not for those seeking quick fixes or handholding.Life's unpredictability requires a flexible training approach.Chapters00:00 Introduction to the Foundational Strength Program02:50 The Importance of Real-Life Flexibility in Training06:06 Comprehensive Support and Resources in the FSP08:58 Understanding Who the FSP is For11:50 Enrollment and Community Support in the FSP15:04 Conclusion and Call to ActionFollow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Websitestrength training, climbing, FSP, coaching, injury prevention, fitness program, auto-regulation, community support, goal setting, training flexibility

Takeaways from the episode:Strength training is essential for climbers.Feeling wiped out after lifting indicates a need for capacity building.General physical preparedness (GPP) is crucial for handling both climbing and lifting.Recovery involves sleep, nutrition, and proper training volume.Climbers should not jump into high-volume strength programs too quickly.Off-season training is vital for long-term climbing success.Planning your training year is important for maintaining performance.You can still climb while focusing on strength training.Nutrition plays a key role in recovery and performance.Strength training should complement climbing, not compete with it.Summary:In this episode of the Strong AF Climbing Podcast, Natasha discusses the importance of strength training for climbers and addresses common misconceptions about its impact on climbing performance. She emphasizes that if strength training consistently leaves climbers feeling sore or fatigued, it may indicate a lack of capacity or recovery rather than a flaw in the training itself. Natasha outlines the importance of building general physical preparedness (GPP), ensuring adequate recovery through sleep and nutrition, and the necessity of planning off-seasons for long-term success in climbing. She encourages climbers to adopt a balanced approach to training that supports their climbing goals without overwhelming their bodies.Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website

In this episode, Natasha discusses the common reasons why training plans fail and offers practical strategies to create more realistic and flexible training schedules.She emphasizes the importance of mindset shifts, the concept of a 'minimum viable week', and how to adapt plans to fit real-life challenges. The conversation highlights the need for consistency over perfection and provides insights into building sustainable training habits for climbers.TakeawaysMost training plans fail because they are idealistic rather than realistic.Flexibility in training plans is crucial for consistency.Missing a session does not equate to failure; it's part of the process.Reframing setbacks can help maintain motivation and progress.Mental contrasting helps visualize both goals and obstacles.A minimum viable week allows for training even during chaotic times.Building a plan that accounts for real-life challenges is essential.Consistency is more important than perfection in training.Having a backup plan can prevent burnout and frustration.Training should be adaptable to fit individual lifestyles and commitments.Follow me on InstagramJoin the Foundational Strength ProgramBook an Injury ConsultationTrain with me My Website