The Strong AF Climbing Podcast

In today’s episode, we're tackling an important topic that often goes misunderstood in the world of sports and fitness: the complex role of imaging, specifically MRIs, in diagnosing and managing injuries. From overuse in healthcare to the startling impact it can have on your psychology and treatment plan, we'll delve into why caution is crucial when considering an MRI. We’ll discuss surprising findings about the prevalence of shoulder abnormalities among elite rock climbers and how these often don’t correlate with pain or performance issues. We’ll also share an inspiring case study where a climber managed a significant shoulder condition with targeted strength training, avoiding surgery altogether. You’ll hear why imaging isn’t always the best first step for pain management, especially given the high rates of ‘abnormal’ findings in asymptomatic individuals, and how these can lead to unnecessary anxiety and interventions. Join us as we explore the broader landscape of medical imaging, offering practical advice on when it’s really necessary and stressing the importance of professional assessments. We’ll also touch on the resilience of the human body and how functional recovery should take center stage in your injury rehabilitation journey. Let’s dive in! Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In this latest episode of the Strong AF Podcast, we dive deep into the transformative world of pelvic health with our guest expert, Dr. Annemarie Everett, DPT, UCSF grad, a specialist in pelvic floor care, WCS Emeritus (board certified women's health specialist). Together we explore how integrating movement and strength training into pelvic health treatments is changing the game for patients and professionals alike. What You'll Learn: Movement as Medicine: Discover how incorporating movement-based strategies into pelvic floor care can offer lasting relief, challenging the traditional reliance on manual therapies alone. Self-Sufficiency in Health: Learn how empowering patients with autonomy and self-management tools can reshape their approach to long-term pelvic health. Holistic Health Matters: Natasha and Annemarie discuss how stress, sleep, diet, and mental health are vital elements of a well-rounded treatment plan. Busting Pelvic Health Myths: From misconceptions about internal exams to the overemphasis on dysfunctions, we shed light on more balanced approaches to care. Practical Tips for Strength & Pelvic Health: Whether it's managing incontinence while lifting or exploring the benefits of tools like pessaries, this episode is packed with actionable advice. Takeaways: Simple exercises like resistance training and cardio can significantly improve pelvic health. Your lifestyle choices—diet, hydration, and stress management—are just as important as your workout routine. Special Mention: We also cover critical topics like urinary habits, toileting techniques, and other tools to help manage symptoms effectively. Sneak Peek at Our Next Episode: Next time, we’ll tackle pelvic health during pregnancy and postpartum, ensuring you’re prepared for all stages of life with confidence. Tune in Now! Citations: 45% of women in the U.S. experience stress urinary incontinence (SUI)【https://www.ajog.org/article/S0002-9378(21)00168-X/abstract】. Many female powerlifters report SUI during lifting, but only 11% experience it in daily life【https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30666426/】. Women confident in contracting their pelvic floor had less severe incontinence during lifting. UI is more likely to occur during heavy lifts, especially 1RM attempts【https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8651931/】. 8% of women who previously had UI in daily life became continent after starting CrossFit, though symptoms persisted during training【https://www.dovepress.com/urinary-incontinence-and-women-crossfit-competitors-peer-reviewed-fulltext-article-IJWH】. Intra-abdominal pressure (IAP) is relative to individual capacity, not an absolute risk for pelvic floor health【https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8974352/】. A narrative review of exercise and pelvic floor health by leading researchers【https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40279-019-01243-1】. Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In today's episode, we're tackling a mindset hurdle that many of us face: the "all or nothing" thinking. This common cognitive distortion can throw a wrench into our training consistency, making us believe that it's either perfection or failure. From skipping workouts because of lack of time or equipment, to feeling like one missed session ruins an entire week, it's a mindset that can seriously sabotage long-term progress. We'll dive into tips and strategies to overcome this, such as doing at least one exercise even when pressed for time, spreading your workouts throughout the week, and keeping quick energy snacks like protein bars or fruit snacks on hand for those low-energy days. We'll also explore how tools like Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE) can help you adapt your training in real-time based on how you feel, ensuring you're always moving forward, no matter what. Plus, we’ll touch on how to creatively maintain your training routine even when your environment or available equipment changes—think using water bottles or even backpacks loaded with rocks for resistance training! And for all my climbers out there, we'll discuss how to track your climbing-specific progress using apps like KAYA. Whether you're in the gym, at home, or on the go, today's episode is packed with actionable advice to help you break free from the all-or-nothing trap and keep making gains. So let's get into it! Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

Dr. Natasha Barnes, a professional focused on climbers' weight and strength training, tackles common misconceptions about weight gain in climbing. She assures that strength training often leads to improved performance without significant weight gain. Natasha discusses the balance between training and health, emphasizing that climbers should prioritize overall well-being over numbers on a scale. Her personal experiences shed light on sustainable performance, and she introduces her foundational strength program designed to help climbers feel lighter and more capable.

Join me in this podcast episode as I share the incredible journey of blending climbing and powerlifting in my life. I'll take you through the highs, lows, and transformative moments that emerged from the unique synergy of these two dynamic disciplines. Explore the unexpected connections, the physical and mental strength gained, and the profound insights discovered while navigating climbing and the sport of powerlifting. Look out for the special announcement at the end! Follow me on Instagram Join the In-Season Strength Program Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes, your host and strength and rehab coach for climbers, discusses the importance of inseason strength training for climbers. Here are the key takeaways: 1️⃣ Maintain Performance: Many climbers neglect strength training once their season begins, but this can have detrimental effects on your strength levels. By incorporating inseason strength training, climbers can maintain their performance throughout the season, leading to easier climbing, better grip strength, and improved ability to handle falls and challenging moves. 2️⃣ Durability & Injury Risk Reduction: Strength and durability are crucial for athletes to stay injury-free and perform at their best. Research shows that strength training can reduce the risk of injury by up to 66%! By continuing strength training inseason, climbers can better withstand the demands of climbing and prevent breakdowns that limit availability and performance. 3️⃣ Prevent Detraining & Maintain Gains: Don't let your hard-earned gains disappear. By maintaining your strength training throughout the season, you can prevent detraining and avoid starting from square one in the next offseason. Inseason strength training ensures long-term development and continuous improvement as a climber. If you're looking for guidance on inseason strength training for climbers, Dr. Natasha Barnes has just launched an in-season strength training program in her app. This program provides personalized programming, auto-regulation techniques, and a community forum for support and learning. Strengthen your climbing game and be Strong AF all season long! Follow me on Instagram Join the In-Season Strength Program Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In this episode, we'll be exploring the relationship between posture and muscle imbalances in climbers, and how it relates to pain and injury. We'll uncover some fascinating insights from recent studies that challenge traditional beliefs about posture and muscle imbalances. Do climbers need to do "antagonist" training? Do you really have a "bad" posture and is it a cause for concern? Should we be focusing on correcting posture to prevent injuries? Or are there other factors at play that we should be paying attention to? Be prepared to have your perspective on posture and muscle imbalances turned upside down. We'll be discussing the latest research findings, as well as sharing personal experiences and practical advice on how to approach training and injury prevention in climbing. Join me as we break down myths, explore the science, and empower you with knowledge to help you become stronger and injury-free. So get ready to challenge your preconceived notions about posture and muscle imbalances in this episode of the Strong AF Podcast! And don't forget, if you have any questions or suggestions, reach out to us. We'd love to hear from you. Let's dive in! Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

Did you know that our minds have the power to reverse the effects of a powerful opioid? That's right, a drug that can numb our pain can also be counteracted by our own thoughts and beliefs. You're probably wondering, how is this possible? It all comes down to the incredible complexity of how pain works and the intricate dance between our brains and bodies. Pain is not purely a physical sensation. It's a multifaceted experience rooted deep within our nervous system. And we're going to explore just how much control we have over this experience. In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes dives into the world of pain science, pain management and injury recovery. From back pain to elbow sensitivity, Natasha provides insights, personal experiences, and expert advice on how to navigate the challenges of pain and injury. Whether you're a climber or simply looking for ways to deal with pain, this episode will give you the tools and knowledge to reframe pain and work around it during training. Let's dive in! [00:02:04] Injury is inevitable for athletes; normalize it. [00:08:38] Powerful pain expectations reverse drug effects. [00:12:50] Power of the mind affects opioid potency. [00:17:35] Reframe pain, retrain response, address unhelpful thoughts. [00:22:50] Use CBT techniques to create and "evidence sheet", challenge negative beliefs and cognitive distortions. [00:23:43] Research suggests slap tears may not cause pain. [00:30:48] Self efficacy in rehab leads to better pain outcomes. [00:35:16] When to seek professional guidance. [00:41:48] Exercise even directly after surgery improves outcomes. Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

In this episode, we'll be discussing various strategies for warming up for your strength training session. Plus, we'll touch on the importance of using RPE (Rating of Perceived Exertion) to accurately gauge your effort level and adjust your training accordingly. So get ready to get warmed up and let's dive in! RPE calculator Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

Discover the transformative power of autoregulation in workouts! Learn how adjusting training intensity based on your daily performance can yield better results. Explore the importance of the Rating of Perceived Exertion (RPE) to select training loads effectively. Uncover the risks of rigid plans and one-rep max tests. Plus, find out how this approach can enhance creativity and productivity beyond physical training. It's all about maximizing gains while preventing burnout and injuries!