The Business of Fashion Podcast

Edward Buchanan, an American-born fashion designer and former Bottega Veneta design director, shares his journey from Ohio to the heart of Italian fashion. He reflects on his creative roots, the influence of New York's vibrant scene, and pivotal mentorship experiences. Buchanan emphasizes the importance of inclusivity in fashion, discussing the challenges faced by Black creatives in Italy and advocating for community building. He offers practical advice for young designers on honing technical skills and pursuing authentic narratives in their work.

Leigh Takanashi, a savvy reporter known for her insights on luxury consumption, joins Jessica Kwan, a Gen Z editorial apprentice with firsthand shopping experiences. They delve into how Gen Z challenges luxury brands, valuing resale and transparency over traditional price tags. Jessica shares her preference for thrifted finds, while Leigh highlights a growing skepticism towards luxury narratives. The duo discusses how brands must adapt to Gen Z's demand for authenticity and value, emphasizing the need for transparency and genuine connection.

Glenn Martens, the inspired Belgian fashion designer behind Y/Project, Diesel, and Maison Margiela, discusses the evolving landscape of fashion. He reflects on his formative years and the challenges that shaped his creative voice. Martens reveals how he redefined Diesel to restore its joyful spirit while advocating for deeper storytelling and craftsmanship amidst social media's superficialities. He also critiques the industry's fast-paced demands, comparing it to a 'Hunger Games' of instant judgment that overshadows the beauty of fashion as a process.

Joan Kennedy, a BoF correspondent, delves into the hurdles facing emerging fashion designers amidst the industry's 'great fashion reset.' She highlights the pressure from retail partners demanding immediate results and the decline of traditional support systems. Kennedy discusses innovative strategies like direct-to-consumer sales and trunk shows that new designers are employing. As the fashion landscape shifts, she emphasizes the importance of nurturing fresh talent to prevent stagnation and predicts a return to basics with stronger customer connections.

In this discussion, Edward Enninful, former editor-in-chief of British Vogue and founder of EE72, shares his journey from editorial powerhouse to entrepreneurial innovator. He unveils his vision for EE72, a platform that blends print and ‘slow digital’ storytelling, emphasizing inclusivity and community. Enninful reveals why Julia Roberts was chosen as the inaugural cover star, celebrating authenticity and diverse representation. He reflects on redefining success in entrepreneurship, prioritizing creativity, freedom, and personal fulfillment over traditional commercial metrics.

In this discussion, luxury correspondent Robert Williams explores how designer debuts could reshape the luxury fashion landscape. He emphasizes the challenges luxury brands face, including a downturn in demand and heightened prices. Williams argues that while new creative leadership is crucial, brands must balance heritage with modern appeal to attract consumers. He highlights the importance of delivering tangible value in response to rising prices and suggests that the effectiveness of these shifts will become evident after the fashion shows.

The fashion industry is grappling with a crisis, as rising prices and quality concerns leave aspirational shoppers feeling alienated. The upcoming Fashion Week is filled with both excitement and anxiety, as designers face changing consumer perceptions. Technology's role in reshaping fashion is explored, alongside the clash between mass production and the demand for uniqueness. The podcast also discusses the importance of authenticity in branding and the delicate balance brands must strike between tradition and innovation during this transformative period.

Malique Morris, BoF correspondent, dives into the rise and fall of Ssense, a brand once celebrated for its indie labels and cultural edge but now facing bankruptcy. He explains how training younger shoppers to wait for discounts eroded its credibility with luxury designers. The discussion also highlights the challenges of maintaining a cool factor while attracting full-price customers and the impact on small brands relying on Ssense. With insights on leadership inertia and economic pressures, the conversation sheds light on the shifting landscape of luxury retail.

Clare Waight Keller, the versatile creative director of Uniqlo, shares her transformative journey through prestigious fashion houses like Gucci and Givenchy. She reveals how embracing discomfort fuels her creativity and growth. Clare discusses the evolution of female perspectives in fashion, her experience in various cultural contexts, and the challenges faced by women in leadership. With fresh insights on navigating the shift from luxury to mass-market retail, she emphasizes the importance of seizing opportunities and learning through challenges.

On her award-winning podcast “Articles of Interest,” host and producer Avery Trufelman dives deep into the stories behind the clothes we wear. From the evolution of prep to the origins of wedding dresses, Avery guides her listeners through the multi-faceted layers behind the aesthetics of fashion. “It's crops, it's the earth, it's handwork, it's culture, it's society. You tug on a thread and you get everything,” she said. “That's what I'm slowly realising [about fashion].”This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed sits down with Trufelman to discuss her path into podcasting, taking her lifelong passion for clothes and what they mean into an audio format, and what she’s learned about fashion along the way. Key Insights: A self-proclaimed “public radio nepo baby,” Trufelman has audio in her blood — her parents met working at New York Public Radio. But while she grew up with audio, she didn’t start experimenting with fashion until she was a teenager, expressing herself through quirky thrifted fashion ensembles, much to the confusion of her peers. “I knew in the back of my mind that it was too much, that I was sort of alienating people,” she says. “It just made me realise how powerful clothing was. That dressing in this wild way sort of set me apart.”Trufelman initially came up with the idea for “Articles of Interest” while interning at the design and architecture podcast “99% Invisible.” Presenting a fashion podcast to an audience more focussed on architecture, Trufelman began to see the ways in which fashion touched every facet of life. “In the beginning, fashion was sort of a dirty word for me,” she says. “Now it's all about fashion because everything has fashion. Buildings have fashion, cars have fashion, colours have fashion. Fashion is just taste over time and the most easy way to measure that when you look at a picture of any era, it's the cars maybe, but mostly the clothes.”Four seasons into “Articles of Interest,” Trufelman now finds herself with a rich archive to draw upon. “I don't ever kill stories. I love to reuse interviews that I collected years ago. I'm always cutting them up and revisiting them because I believe that knowledge isn't like one and done. It isn't a single use thing. I believe in making this a long sustainable living archive.” Trufelman also sees the parallels between podcasts and fashion in the ways in which both allow us to engage with the world. “People are listening to your voice while they're walking down the street and they're like noticing what people are wearing or they're noticing what people are doing. It's not undivided attention. It is divided attention. It's beautiful.”Additional Resources:The BoF 500: Avery TrufelmanRalph Lauren is Traveling Back in Time to Bring Back Preppy Chic Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.