The Business of Fashion Podcast

James Whitner, founder of The Whitaker Group and visionary behind A Ma Maniére and Social Status, shares his journey from Pittsburgh to becoming a leader in community-focused retail. He emphasizes the importance of empathy and intentionality in business, aiming to uplift marginalized communities. Whitner discusses his philosophy of prioritizing emotional connections over profits and highlights the role of innovative retail spaces in fostering community. He advocates for proactive engagement among young entrepreneurs, underscoring a commitment to cultural authenticity.

Sarah Kent, the sustainability editor at BOF, dives into the critical issues plaguing labor in fashion, revealing alarming cases of child labor in India and slavery in Taiwan. She discusses how exploitation is entrenched in socio-economic systems, making change challenging. Kent emphasizes the necessity of transparency in supply chains, as brands struggle to trace their cotton's origins. The conversation also touches on the responsibilities of major fashion brands and the impact of consumer choices on ethical practices, advocating for collective action to combat these systemic issues.

Giles Duley, a renowned photographer who began his career in fashion, shares his profound journey from capturing celebrity glamour to documenting the realities of war. He emphasizes that he focuses on love, highlighting human connections in conflict zones. Duley discusses his life-altering experience in Afghanistan and how it fueled his purpose through the Legacy of War Foundation, empowering communities affected by war. He urges others to use their platforms for meaningful change, blending creativity and empathy to amplify unheard stories.

Luxury editor Robert Williams joins the discussion with insight into Gucci's alarming 24% sales decline and its implications for Kering. He delves into the brand's muddled identity, cautioning against leaning too heavily on heritage. The conversation highlights the challenges of finding a new creative director and contrasts Kering's strategy with that of LVMH. Williams emphasizes the need for a fresh vision to reinvigorate Gucci in a competitive market, questioning the brand's future and its position within Kering's luxury portfolio.

In a candid conversation, Es Devlin and Ekow Eshun explore the transformative power of human connection. Devlin's project invites reflection on personal biases through the stories of Londoners from immigrant backgrounds. Eshun's book delves into racial identity by uncovering the narratives of five Black men across time. They discuss how 'otherness' shapes belonging and emphasize that understanding each other requires vulnerability. Both artists highlight the journey of self-discovery as a means to bridge cultural divides and foster empathy.

In this discussion, Daniela Morissini, a seasoned beauté analyst and BOF beauty correspondent, delves into Estée Lauder's modern challenges. She highlights how the company's deep-rooted family control may have hindered its agility in a shifting market. Morissini points out that the brand's prestige messaging is losing traction with consumers seeking diverse shopping experiences. The conversation also explores strategic investments and leadership changes, as Estée Lauder aims to revitalize its appeal while adapting to the evolving beauty landscape.

The podcast explores whether India can become the next luxury market powerhouse like China. It highlights India's youthful population and the unique complexities within its retail landscape. Insights from pioneering industry leaders reveal why European luxury brands struggle in India despite its rapid economic growth. The discussion also touches on the cultural nuances and consumer behaviors that differentiate India’s luxury market from China's, emphasizing the need for brands to adapt and understand these dynamics for success.

Malique Morris, e-commerce correspondent for The Business of Fashion, shares insights on the revitalization of fashion’s M&A market. He discusses how falling interest rates and economic shifts are paving the way for new acquisitions. Morris highlights the trend of brands undergoing 'managed decline' to extend their lifespans and emphasizes the importance of brand value amidst economic fluctuations. With notable deals involving brands like True Religion, he reveals how both startups and heritage brands are navigating this evolving landscape.

Imran Amed, founder and editor-in-chief of The Business of Fashion, discusses the luxury fashion industry's severe crisis, comparing it to the Great Recession. He critiques unsustainable strategies like over-expansion and highlights the shift in consumer dynamics, especially in China and the growing potential in India. Amed emphasizes the untapped market of 'silver spenders' over 50 and the need for brands to embrace local talent. He advocates for innovation and culturally informed strategies to revitalize the luxury sector.

The fashion workplace is evolving, shaped by a wave of technological advancements, leadership changes, and cultural dynamics. For many employees, adapting to these changes has become a challenge, while employers must navigate how to foster connection, retain talent, and drive innovation.Executive editor Brian Baskin sits with commercial features editorial director Sophie Soar and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to unpack how businesses can create thriving workplaces in 2025, the role of soft skills in a tech-driven era, and what it takes to re-engage an increasingly disconnected workforce.“In the face of AI and more technology coming in, it is more important to have a human element. What does a human do well? That’s why soft skills are a huge focus,” says Butler-Young. Meanwhile, Soar highlights the growing challenges of employee disengagement, stating, “We are incredibly disengaged as a workforce. Trying to get employees to buy back into what they’re doing and be part of the workplace is going to be really challenging.”Key Insights:The turnover of leadership in fashion is reshaping workplace dynamics. “New leadership means change, even if they're using the same playbook,” explains Butler-Young. “Having someone new at the top of your company tends to affect morale for better or worse, or just makes people feel uncertain.” She adds, “Fashion workplaces are in this perpetual transition this year, which will inevitably shape culture.”In the wake of President Donald Trump’s executive orders targeting corporate DEI programmes, successful DEI strategies in 2025 will integrate horizontally across all business functions, rather than thinking about it as a vertical. “If something is horizontally integrated across the business and is a fundamental aspect of every single core pillar that this business touches upon, it's harder to roll back on those initiatives as a result,” says Soar. Butler-Young adds, “If you as a leader of any kind of organisation appear to flip-flop on your values based on the way the political winds blow, I think that's going to have a harmful effect on your workplace in the long term.”As AI becomes more prevalent, employers are placing greater emphasis on human-centric skills. “In the face of AI and more technology coming in, it is more important to have a human element to it. What does a human do really well? That’s why soft skills are a huge focus,” says Butler-Young. Soar adds, “It’s about engaging a workforce who are constantly striving to think about how they can take this particular tool or opportunity to the next stage and do so with that can-do, positive approach and attitude.”The impact of the attention economy has spread into our work lives. “We are incredibly disengaged as a workforce,” says Soar. “Trying to get employees to buy back into what it is that they're doing and be a part of the workplace is going to be really challenging, especially as they're navigating a hybrid or remote working environment.” Employers, Soar argues, need to address this to optimise their workforce for the future: “It is fundamentally changing the way that we are operating as people as well as employees.”Additional Resources:How to Future-Proof Your Fashion Career in 2025From Trump to Gen-Z, Fashion Faces a Culture QuakeBoF Careers Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.