The Business of Fashion Podcast

Tim Gunn is best known as the wise, empathetic mentor on television’s Project Runway, but before he found himself guiding the next generation of designers on screen, he spent time teaching and shaping the fashion curriculum at Parsons, where he helped nurture some of the most influential names in American fashion. His journey began in Washington, D.C., where early struggles with bullying and a desire to understand his own creativity led him toward mentoring and educating others.Now, as the industry grapples with change on multiple fronts, Gunn offers his unique perspective on what it really takes to succeed today — in life and in fashion.  “Life is a huge collaboration. We need other people. We’re not intended to be solos. And no one should think, ‘I can deal with this and solve this myself,’” says Gunn.This week on The BoF Podcast, Gunn opens up about how his early trials shaped his remarkable career, why he left his art practice behind to focus on teaching and mentorship, and how he sees the future of American fashion.Key Insights: A graduate of the Corcoran College of Art and Design, Gunn once dreamed of being a painter or sculptor, but after just a few years in the classroom, he realised guiding students gave him more satisfaction than making his own work. “After two years of teaching, I thought, ‘I feel so fulfilled and so sated through the teaching process, I don’t need to make the work,’” Gunn says . “This is what I love doing and I’m just going to keep doing it.”During his tenure at Parsons, Gunn served as both a teacher and an administrator — eventually rising to Associate Dean — and was tasked with revitalising the school’s struggling fashion program. “The curriculum had not changed since 1952,” he recalls. “No computers, no fashion history... I was completely and totally horrified.” Determined to better prepare students for the realities of the industry, Gunn helped introduce new business training, creative independence, and a broader perspective on design. “The former curriculum was all about being totally and wholly dependent upon the faculty. You couldn’t do anything without faculty approval. And I thought, ‘These students are incredibly talented and bright. We need to let them fly and see where it takes them.’”The producers of Project Runway learned about Tim Gunn from industry insiders who pointed to his transformational work at Parsons. Gunn initially resisted the idea of reality TV, but curiosity won out, and his background as an educator shaped his signature style of mentorship on the show. Gunn believes emerging designers need more real-world business training, collaboration partners and a firm grasp of their own creative DNA to survive. “If you insist upon making every garment yourself, just be resigned to having a little boutique and not making any money. If you really want something big, you’re gonna have to let go and you’re gonna have to collaborate with a lot of people,” Gunn advises. “Any one of us, either individually or collectively, can only be as successful as our ambitions and our resources allow us to be.”Additional Resources:Television's Power to Launch Fashion Brands Remains Unproven | BoFHow Independent Brands Can Thrive in a Fashion World Ruled by Giants  Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Lei Takanashi, a correspondent at The Business of Fashion, and Julia Lebossé, an editorial fellow at the same outlet, dive deep into the evolving world of brand collaborations. They discuss how authenticity is key for success in creative partnerships, emphasizing the need for brands to give collaborators freedom to innovate. The duo also critiques the stagnation in sneaker designs and highlights the impressive work of smaller brands like Bimma Williams and Saucony. Listeners will gain insights into the balance between commercial appeal and artistic integrity.

Nara Smith, an influential TikTok chef, and Lucky Blue Smith, a well-known model, share their journey to fame as a couple navigating social media's scrutiny. They discuss the challenges of authenticity in a viral world and how they cultivate a true self amidst the noise. Lucky reflects on the self-consciousness that can accompany fame, while Nara emphasizes the importance of being real to connect with their audience. They also touch on the unseen labor of content creation and maintaining mental health in their public personas.

Public relations in fashion has transformed drastically from securing magazine features to managing 360-degree brand storytelling. PR agencies now navigate everything from influencer partnerships to event management, social media strategies, and beyond. However, choosing the right PR agency is no small feat, especially for smaller brands or those at critical growth stages.“Having a PR agency that really feels like a genuine organic extension of your team … is what's going to enable you to plan together and collaboratively work on goals that you're super aligned on,” shared marketing correspondent Haley Crawford. Executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with Crawford to discuss how brands can evaluate potential PR partners, the challenges and opportunities in the modern PR space, and how to ensure a successful collaboration.Key Insights: The PR industry has evolved significantly. In the past, PR agencies focused on securing mentions in traditional editorial formats, with the ultimate goal being a feature in Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar. Today, their capabilities have expanded. As Crawford explains, “this allows them to represent brands across the full spectrum of physical and digital spaces where shoppers are really interfacing with them and discovering them. … The agency's role is to facilitate telling a cohesive story across all these facets.”Building relationships remains central to PR success. “The ability to build and maintain relationships has always been such a central skill in PR, but it looks totally different today than it did a couple of years ago,” says Crawford. “Today, publicists really have to go above and beyond to use those relationship building skills to build communities around the brand. And I think what really helps is being passionate about the brands that you choose to work with as well.”As artificial intelligence increasingly influences brand strategies, PR agencies must adopt innovative, human-centric approaches to distinguish themselves. This involves “facilitating an unexpected partnership … bringing events to life that really bring consumers that much closer to the brands they love” and helping brands “ to get in front of new audiences that might be unexpected.”When you're meeting with a potential PR partner, Crawford advises to think of it as a job interview. “Could you see them being part of your in-house team? Are they clearly passionate about developing your brand story and taking it to the next level?” Additional Resources:How to Choose a PR Agency | BoFWhat Fashion PR & Communications Professionals Need to Know Today | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Bethann Hardison, a former model and agent, has championed diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry for over 50 years. She shares her journey of creating an agency that reflects the world's diversity, challenging systemic biases from within. Bethann discusses the importance of integrating various representations, empowering future generations of models, and balancing her career with motherhood. Her candid reflections on fear, failure, and resilience provide an inspiring glimpse into her lifelong advocacy for a more inclusive fashion world.

Sarah Kent, BOF's Sustainability Editor, dives deep into the troubling revelations surrounding luxury brands like Dior and Armani, connected to illegal sweatshops in Italy. She discusses how these brands obscure labor exploitation under the guise of high prices and Italian craftsmanship while ignoring systemic issues. Kent highlights the industry’s 'open secret,' where unethical practices persist despite audits. The conversation questions the balance between ethical standards and profitability, exploring how consumer trust hangs in the balance amidst these revelations.

Extreme weather is wreaking havoc on the fashion industry, particularly in developing nations. As heatwaves cripple workplaces in countries like the Philippines and India, experts highlight the urgent need for sustainable practices. The health of garment workers is at risk, with rising temperatures leading to alarming rates of heat-related illnesses. Innovating the supply chain and fostering collective responsibility among brands and farmers is crucial for survival. The discussion reveals the interconnectedness of climate change and the fashion world, calling for immediate action.

Alessandro Michele, the innovative creative director of Valentino, is known for his unique, often contentious designs, while Jacopo Venturini, the CEO, focuses on fostering a human-centric culture. In this conversation, they reveal how their history at Gucci informs their approach to revitalizing Valentino, blending its heritage with fresh perspectives. Michele discusses the joy of creative freedom and the emotional ties that underpin their work. They explore the balance of creativity and strategy in fashion, promising exciting directions for the iconic brand.

This discussion dives into Nike's turbulent year, spotlighting declining sales and leadership changes, emphasizing competition from brands like Adidas. The challenges within beauty brands regarding transparency and social media controversies are also examined. Moreover, the rise of affiliate marketing for influencers and its legal battles is a hot topic. Finally, predictions for 2025 highlight the growing importance of values-driven purchasing and sustainability practices in fashion.

Bohan Qiu, a publicist and consultant well-versed in grassroots fashion movements, discusses the evolving landscape for independent designers. He highlights the shift towards direct-to-consumer models as multi-brand retailers face closures. The panel emphasizes redefining success by valuing sustainability and community impact. With young designers connecting through youth culture and digital storytelling, there's an awakening of creativity. Qiu also addresses AI's role in supporting traditional craftsmanship rather than replacing it, advocating for robust support systems for emerging talents.