The Business of Fashion Podcast

This season, all eyes were on the debuts of Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford and Sarah Burton at Givenchy. Meanwhile, designs at Alaïa and Valentino continued to push boundaries with daring silhouettes that either stood away from the body or felt purposely incomplete. Behind the new faces and unconventional shapes was a deeper exploration of eroticism. From Ackermann’s sensual glamour at Tom Ford to what Tim Blanks calls the “quiet eroticism” of Burton’s Givenchy, designers seemed united by a playful fascination with the body — and a desire to subtly challenge its boundaries.“Fashion is a very fetishistic art form,” says Tim Blanks, BoF’s editor-at-large. “It has its fixations on the body and the way it fetishizes objects, but fashion is about fetishizing beauty and ugliness. A lot of these different things have been coming up over the last few years.”Following the conclusion of the Autumn/Winter 2025 shows, Blanks sits down with BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed to discuss the highlights of fashion month.Key Insights: Across the season, there was plenty of body on display. At Alaïa, Pieter Mulier presented striking new silhouettes that played with unusual proportions, creating shapes that stood away from the body. These exaggerated forms, described vividly by Amed as "body condoms," challenged the relationship between clothes and the body. At Duran Lantink, prosthetic pieces humorously toyed with ideas of eroticism. “What are they trying to say with these clothes?” asks Blanks. “There is a new body consciousness and people want to show off their svelte new forms.”Ackermann’s debut successfully merged Tom Ford’s famed sexual glamour with a reflective, intimate approach. “Tom is a sexualist and Haider is a sensualist, but there was a compatibility there in the erotic rigour in both of their work,” says Blanks. “I thought Haider did a wonderful job of doing a Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford collection; honouring the essence of one, but really bringing the dynamism of the new.”Also facing a house with a storied heritage, Burton’s debut collection for Givenchy returned to its earliest codes and patterns. “We haven't seen something that's projecting Givenchy into the future but also really grounded in the past. And I think that's what clicked, because the other attempts were either too much in the future and disconnected from the past, or too much in the past and not taking it anywhere new,” says Amed. “She proved what a great designer she is,” adds Blanks.Watching from home, Blanks was struck by the step-and-repeat that preceded the Off-White show, where attendees arrived in bold, expressive looks from the brand’s current collection. This real-life display of style, Blanks notes, “softened him up” for the actual runway. “You see the clothes on real people, so it's not like, ‘Who would wear this?’” he says. Amed highlights this as an added opportunity to capture customers watching online: “There's a step-and-repeat for what's available to buy now, and then there's the show for what's available for the future.”Additional Resources:Sarah Burton’s Givenchy Debut: First Principles Take FlightAckermann and Ford: A Deliciously Dangerous Liaison Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young speak with editorial associate Yola Mzizi about how regulatory restrictions and cultural conservatism are forcing sexual wellness brands to pivot their messaging in 2025. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Born in Sardinia on a sailing boat to self-described “adventurous” parents, Francesco Risso grew up in an environment that fostered independence, spontaneity and a deep need to create. After formative years at Polimoda, FIT and Central Saint Martins — where he studied under the late Louise Wilson — he joined Prada, learning firsthand how to fuse conceptual exploration with a product that resonates in everyday life.Now at Marni, Risso continues to embrace a method he likens to an artist’s studio, championing bold experimentation and surrounding himself with collaborators who push each other to new heights of creativity. “Creativity is …  in the way we give love to the things that we make and then we give to people. I feel I don’t see so much of that love around,” says Risso. “We have to inject into products a strong and beautiful sense of making. That requires craft, it requires skills, it requires a lot of fatigue, it requires discipline.”Risso joins BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed to explore how his unconventional childhood shaped his creative approach, why discipline and craft remain vital to fashion, and how meaningful collaboration can expand the boundaries of what’s possible.Key Insights: Growing up in a busy, non-traditional household, Risso learned to express himself by altering and reconstructing clothing he found in family closets. “I started to develop this need to make with my hands as a means to communicate,” he says. “I would find something in my grandmother’s closet, start to disrupt it and collage it to something from my sister’s wardrobe and we have a new piece.” This early experimentation laid the groundwork for his vision of and approach to design.From Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins to Miuccia Prada, Risso has absorbed the value of rigorous research, conceptual thinking and extended ideation. “You have to rely on your own strengths and your own capability to go and study, to go and research, to go and find your things,” he says. “That is key to me, to become a designer with a voice.”Whether partnering with artists through an informal “residency” or collaborating with brands like Hoka, Risso insists that a great tie-up is never about simply sticking art on a T-shirt or rushing a gimmick. “Processes are about learning from each other … and that generates a body of work that then becomes either art or clothes.” His focus on genuine exchange expands the creative horizon for both Marni and its collaborators.Risso’s advice to emerging designers is to appreciate the fundamentals of making in favour of more superficial aspirations. “I dare young people to be more focused on engaging with the making, rather than just projecting in the future,” he says. “A strong sense of making requires craft, it requires skills, it requires a lot of fatigue, it requires discipline.” This hands-on grounding, in his view, is essential for developing a lasting, meaningful design practice.Additional Resources:Francesco Risso | BoF 500 | The People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry Exclusive: Inside Hoka’s Fashion Ambitions | BoFBackstage Pass | Marni and the Thread of Beauty | BoF  Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Malique Morris, an e-commerce correspondent known for his luxury market insights, joins the discussion to unravel the challenges Farfetch faces post-acquisition by Coupang. The focus is on how aggressive cost-cutting is jeopardizing relationships with VIP customers and the brand's luxury identity. Morris argues that prioritizing profitability threatens the high-end experience that luxury shoppers expect. The conversation also touches on shifting strategies, the impact of recent partnerships, and the future outlook for this once-pioneering marketplace.

James Whitner, founder of The Whitaker Group and visionary behind A Ma Maniére and Social Status, shares his journey from Pittsburgh to becoming a leader in community-focused retail. He emphasizes the importance of empathy and intentionality in business, aiming to uplift marginalized communities. Whitner discusses his philosophy of prioritizing emotional connections over profits and highlights the role of innovative retail spaces in fostering community. He advocates for proactive engagement among young entrepreneurs, underscoring a commitment to cultural authenticity.

Sarah Kent, the sustainability editor at BOF, dives into the critical issues plaguing labor in fashion, revealing alarming cases of child labor in India and slavery in Taiwan. She discusses how exploitation is entrenched in socio-economic systems, making change challenging. Kent emphasizes the necessity of transparency in supply chains, as brands struggle to trace their cotton's origins. The conversation also touches on the responsibilities of major fashion brands and the impact of consumer choices on ethical practices, advocating for collective action to combat these systemic issues.

Giles Duley, a renowned photographer who began his career in fashion, shares his profound journey from capturing celebrity glamour to documenting the realities of war. He emphasizes that he focuses on love, highlighting human connections in conflict zones. Duley discusses his life-altering experience in Afghanistan and how it fueled his purpose through the Legacy of War Foundation, empowering communities affected by war. He urges others to use their platforms for meaningful change, blending creativity and empathy to amplify unheard stories.

Luxury editor Robert Williams joins the discussion with insight into Gucci's alarming 24% sales decline and its implications for Kering. He delves into the brand's muddled identity, cautioning against leaning too heavily on heritage. The conversation highlights the challenges of finding a new creative director and contrasts Kering's strategy with that of LVMH. Williams emphasizes the need for a fresh vision to reinvigorate Gucci in a competitive market, questioning the brand's future and its position within Kering's luxury portfolio.

In a candid conversation, Es Devlin and Ekow Eshun explore the transformative power of human connection. Devlin's project invites reflection on personal biases through the stories of Londoners from immigrant backgrounds. Eshun's book delves into racial identity by uncovering the narratives of five Black men across time. They discuss how 'otherness' shapes belonging and emphasize that understanding each other requires vulnerability. Both artists highlight the journey of self-discovery as a means to bridge cultural divides and foster empathy.

In this discussion, Daniela Morissini, a seasoned beauté analyst and BOF beauty correspondent, delves into Estée Lauder's modern challenges. She highlights how the company's deep-rooted family control may have hindered its agility in a shifting market. Morissini points out that the brand's prestige messaging is losing traction with consumers seeking diverse shopping experiences. The conversation also explores strategic investments and leadership changes, as Estée Lauder aims to revitalize its appeal while adapting to the evolving beauty landscape.