The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!Become a Patronpatreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 220: Alannah Yip — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesThe Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alannah-yipNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:11) – Alopecia(00:07:31) – Identity crisis(00:11:33) – Deciding to shave her head(00:12:55) – Taking back her power(00:19:55) – Setting it on the back burner(00:25:33) – Training camps(00:30:23) – Alannah’s coaches(00:33:47) – Training for Paris vs. Tokyo(00:39:26) – Feelings about Tokyo(00:42:08) – Lessons from Tokyo(00:44:06) – Training with other women(00:46:52) – Working on slab(00:50:10) – The Olympic Qualifying Series(00:55:00) – Olympic vs. World Cup lead style(00:59:27) – Why she quit comps during college(01:02:10) – Making the jump to World Cups(01:04:35) – Reexamining her relationship with climbing as an adult(01:08:54) – Engineering & coaching(01:11:28) – Excited to retire from comps(01:18:24) – IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders & RED-S(01:30:05) – Self-reporting & BMI(01:35:39) – Alannah’s eating disorder as a teenager(01:41:53) – The turning point(01:43:50) – Dealing with hard moments(01:45:30) – Conflicted feelings about food(01:48:13) – Alannah’s PSAs(01:50:15) – My PSA(01:53:03) – Mutual appreciation(01:55:05) – What’s next(01:56:24) – Rapid fire Qs(02:01:21) – Occasionally on Instagram(02:04:49) – Wrap up

Fitz Cahall, creator of The Dirtbag Diaries and Climbing Gold, discusses early internet days, podcasting in 2007, storytelling, virtual reality, meaningful time management, unglamorous work, choosing stories, and his new book States of Adventure.

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! Get coaching from Mat!matwrightcoaching.comCheck out Kletterkalk UK!kletterkalk.co.ukMat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody’ E11(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation(00:24:22) – Making your own luck(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2(00:41:37) – The send(00:44:54) – The process(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send(00:54:57) – Mat’s next project(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off(01:11:00) – Taking time off(01:18:37) – Less vs. more(01:24:07) – Wrap up

Dr. David Spiegel, a Stanford psychiatrist, discusses hypnosis benefits, self-hypnosis for stress relief, breathing exercises, and new Reveri App. Touches on the blend of analytical problem-solving and intuitive flow states in climbing, enhancing focus through self-hypnosis, and debunking misconceptions about hypnosis.

Maddy Cope, an endurance training expert, shares a masterclass on endurance training, including key takeaways from the main episode. Topics covered include weekend sends, common misunderstandings in endurance training, and free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course.

Renowned climber, Maddy Cope, shares insights on transitioning from dancing to climbing, discomfort in climbing, pleasure pointing, and embracing the joy of missing out. The podcast delves into the balance between discomfort and comfort, listening to body cues in climbing, and finding joy in missing out. Maddy also discusses humility, recognition, climbing training, and education at Lattice, and offers a discount on their online training course.

Nathan Williams shares insights on climbing 'Return of the Sleepwalker' 9A/V17, gaining legendary finger strength in minutes per week, static feats of strength, and staying motivated after bad days. Mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras, Nathan talks about his climbing journey, love for ROTS, friction control, and climbing with a purpose.

Neely Quinn, founder of Training Beta, discusses mindset work with Hazel Findlay, overcoming self-doubt, banishing shame, and how working on your mindset can make you climb harder. The podcast also includes a life coaching session, strategies for managing negative emotions, and finding contentment in climbing.

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenziNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi(00:05:37) – Early climbing(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength(00:29:17) – External pressure(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C(00:36:09) – Optimism(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals(01:17:31) – Future competition plans(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b(01:42:18) – Support from his dad(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Filmmaker Carlos Mason discusses creating the climbing film 'Sending', inspired by a car commercial. Topics include Bishop as the location, writing the film's narrative, forming connections through climbing, behind-the-scenes insights, and future film projects.