The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Colin Duffy, a 2x Olympian and V16 boulderer from Colorado, discusses his journey through the climbing world. He shares valuable lessons learned from early competitions and the unexpected challenges faced during the Tokyo Games. Colin delves into the complexities of Olympic scoring and his strategic approach for Paris. He reflects on balancing competitive climbing with personal growth, the evolving landscape of climbing competitions, and his future outdoor goals. His insights into mental preparedness and resilience make this conversation truly inspiring.

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-huntNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:50) – Emma’s intro to climbing & speed(00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.”(00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit(00:09:28) – Beta changes(00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top(00:13:10) – Speed nerds(00:16:19) – A rock climber first(00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans(00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers?(00:23:25) – How speed climbers train(00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route(00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training(00:31:56) – Her coaches(00:35:06) – Speed shoes(00:44:59) – Other sports(00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid(00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed(00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals(00:51:36) – Speed mental game(00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format(00:59:06) – Seeds & sides(01:00:39) – Strategy(01:05:01) – Riding waves(01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format(01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format(01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps(01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream(01:35:22) – We celebrate gold(01:40:39) – Barriers to speed(01:42:30) – Emma’s fastest time & goals(01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change?(01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals(01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions(02:07:51) – Speed is cool

Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxseyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:30) – Frankie(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions(00:15:09) – Parenting(00:20:15) – Support network(00:22:06) – Shauna’s upbringing(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing(00:31:16) – Human nature(00:34:22) – Her first big competition(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids(00:47:54) – Frankie’s Nany, Arona(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips(01:24:02) – Commentating(01:28:17) – Tokyo(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom(01:41:10) – The magic of being here(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?(01:47:38) – Wrap up

Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!Flex Master Discount:Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-toolsWatch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadleyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – CARCing(00:10:38) – Unstructured training(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments(00:32:14) – Abduction(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching(00:53:36) – Josh’s flexibility progress(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility(01:39:58) – Calve stretching(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers(01:52:24) – Reducing friction(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch(02:04:41) – Breathing(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility(02:12:54) – Josh’s climbing & BJJ(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing(02:22:07) – Josh’s final advice(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting(02:27:49) – Wrap up

How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing. We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granite hangboards, the future of climbing holds, and much more!Use Code ‘NUGGET’ for 20% Off ANY Nature Climbing Products! ▶︎ https://natureclimbing.com/Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nature-climbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:08) – Banter(00:05:02) – My first experience with Nature holds(00:08:13) – Glass blowing & Nature’s origin story(00:10:56) – Early holds(00:12:28) – Mads’ climbing background(00:16:28) – Pawel’s marketing background(00:25:32) – How Mads & Pawel connected(00:27:15) – Mads’ dream(00:28:32) – Pawel’s career pivot(00:37:06) – Fixing the basics(00:43:51) – Scaling a handcrafted business(00:52:23) – Sustainability & respect(00:55:51) – Buying holds(00:58:33) – Who Nature is for(01:06:53) – Developing new products(01:09:27) – The Nature Circuit(01:10:48) – World Cup routes(01:12:43) – Their vision for Nature(01:17:56) – Their dream lifestyles(01:23:00) – Proudest of(01:28:42) – Elevator pitch(01:29:54) – Training on granite(01:33:39) – Discount code

World-class climber and coach Justen Sjong discusses mastering climbing techniques, the four stages of technique, sending faster, and his goal of climbing 9a before 60. He coaches on floating using the drop-drive-stop method and shares insights on reflection, confidence, and optimizing climbing movements.

In this episode, I crack open a beer with Tony Bell and David Bress, the two founders of Revival Climbing Coalition. The two of them installed my dream home wall in 2.5 hours and I was blown away by the craftsmanship and elegance of the design. We talked about their backgrounds, how they bootstrapped a climbing wall business, what sets their products apart, the biggest surprises they faced, sustainability challenges, future products and innovations, and more! Revival’s Adjustable Climbing Walls:revivalclimbing.com/adjustable-climbing-wallRevival’s Landing Systems:revivalclimbing.com/custom-matsrevivalclimbing.com/standard-matsShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/revival-climbing-coalitionNuggets:00:00:00 – Intro00:01:45 – Breakfast banter00:04:06 – David’s background00:09:06 – Mount Moran00:13:09 – Tony’s background00:16:24 – Getting into the climbing wall industry00:21:09 – The birth of Revival Climbing Coalition00:25:00 – What sets Revival apart00:33:01 – The cost of the wall00:36:45 – The board00:39:10 – Turkeys00:40:25 – Bootstrapping and outsourcing00:45:12 – Biggest surprises00:47:37 – What sets their board apart00:52:49 – Engineered lumber00:56:38 – Sustainability01:00:36 – Ease of installation01:02:38 – Gym partners and shipping01:04:40 – The future of Revival01:08:45 – More about landing systems01:09:50 – What’s next for Revival01:13:31 – Wrap up

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecovaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all(00:18:08) – A natural talent(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends(00:30:04) – Sharing successes(00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity(00:58:22) – Working with her coach(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength(01:08:09) – How her training has changed(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects(01:35:18) – Self-belief(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement(01:48:51) – Best decision(01:53:17) – Bug snacks(01:56:00) – Happiest moment(01:58:58) – Silver linings(02:03:11) – Proudest of(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:11:27) – Wrap up

Aidan Roberts, a top boulderer, discusses professional climbing and media, new challenging boulders proposed, and reflections on podcasting. Topics include transitioning to a home base, balancing passion with livelihood, navigating climbing media and sponsorships, exploring climbing narratives and social media challenges, challenging climbs and training experiences, rediscovering a fresh approach to climbing, embracing the flow of climbing, and reflecting on climbing projects and grading.

The Climbing Physio, Paul Houghoughi, discusses bulletproofing knees, shoulder injury prevention, neck and back strengthening, and common body changes as climbers age. Tips cover knee exercises for heel hooks, wrist widgets, hamstring lifts, Nordic exercises, and shoulder strength training with kettlebells. The episode also addresses managing neck and back pain from carrying crash pads, distinguishing good pain from bad pain in load management, and enhancing climbing technique for better performance.