The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck
Jun 3, 2024
The Climbing Physio, Paul Houghoughi, discusses bulletproofing knees, shoulder injury prevention, neck and back strengthening, and common body changes as climbers age. Tips cover knee exercises for heel hooks, wrist widgets, hamstring lifts, Nordic exercises, and shoulder strength training with kettlebells. The episode also addresses managing neck and back pain from carrying crash pads, distinguishing good pain from bad pain in load management, and enhancing climbing technique for better performance.
Chapters
Transcript
Episode notes
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Intro
00:00 • 4min
Injury Rehab, Climbing Progress, and Injury Prevention
04:11 • 15min
Wrist Injury Prevention and Climbing Performance Enhancement
18:47 • 14min
Using a Tool to Engage the Hamstring Effectively
32:44 • 2min
Strengthening Muscles for Injury Prevention in Climbing
34:31 • 9min
Discussing a Simple Lifting Protocol and Highlighting the Importance of Objectivity in Training
43:49 • 5min
Benefits of Nordic Exercise for Injury Prevention in Climbing
49:06 • 10min
Addressing Neck and Back Pain from Carrying Crash Pads
59:02 • 20min
Exploring Climbing Apps and Self-Coached Training Workouts
01:18:50 • 3min
Shoulder Strength and Injury Prevention for Climbers
01:22:11 • 21min
Distinguishing Good Pain from Bad Pain in Load Management for Climbers
01:42:56 • 16min
Enhancing Climbing Technique and Injury Prevention Strategies
01:58:51 • 12min
A Discussion on Joint Health and Olympic Qualifiers
02:11:01 • 2min
Exploring Finger, Wrist, and Elbow Injuries with Paul and Patreon Bonus on Pulley Injuries
02:12:53 • 2min