The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’
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Jun 24, 2024 World-class climber and coach Justen Sjong discusses mastering climbing techniques, the four stages of technique, sending faster, and his goal of climbing 9a before 60. He coaches on floating using the drop-drive-stop method and shares insights on reflection, confidence, and optimizing climbing movements.
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Rapid Progression at Smith Rock
- Justen Sjong rapidly progressed at Smith Rock, flashing Darkness at Dawn (5.13a) after only a few weekends of sport climbing.
- His prior trad climbing experience at Index, while not necessarily making him a "badass," prepared him for the technical challenges.
Origins of Coaching Interest
- Justen's interest in coaching stemmed from a desire to manage his own fear and anxiety while climbing.
- He relates to high-level athletes because he recognizes their mental fragility despite their exceptional physical and technical skills.
Technique vs. Rock Type Mastery
- Climbers often mistake mastery of a specific rock type, like Smith Rock's technical style, for overall climbing prowess.
- True technique encompasses diverse skills applicable across various rock types and climbing styles, including mental approach and strategy.