Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background
(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety
(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes
(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”
(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”
(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence
(00:26:22) – Our three batteries
(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate
(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique
(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:11:44) – Structuring practice
(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture
(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment
(01:21:00) – Three questions
(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling
(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique
(01:35:47) – Sending things faster
(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats
(01:50:43) – Board climbers
(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing
(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’
(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal
(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing
(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets
(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
