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Aiden Roberts reflects on the period after doing the climb Alfane, noting a sense of validation and ego satisfaction from the climbing limelight. He spent time in Sheffield for training with coach Ollie Torr and climber Toby Roberts. The focus was on training power moves, including climbing more dynamically, to prepare for upcoming projects.
During a trip in Couronico, Switzerland, Giuliano Camarone showed Aiden a project above the area covered in cobwebs - the Midnight Project, now named Arrival of the Birds. Aiden was intrigued by the climb's unique style with smooth, compact rock and crescent slots for holds. The challenge involved slow, tension-filled movements and contorted positions on a slightly steep face.
Aiden made a hasty attempt at the Midnight Project initially, resulting in a split tip. After focusing on the climb Alfane, he returned to the Midnight Project on a subsequent trip. Collaborating with Kim Marshner, he dedicated proper tries to the climb, delving into the challenges presented by the unique wall features and movement demands.
Growing from initial attempts, Aiden delved deeper into the Midnight Project, honing his approach and techniques. The climb's distinct style and intricate movements demanded focus and precision. Aiden's process involved reflecting on the climb's challenges, evolving his climbing strategy, and embracing the journey of mastering a complex and engaging project.
The speaker describes how they found a climb that was a perfect match for their style and abilities, leading to a sense of accomplishment and fulfillment. This climb represented a culmination of their training efforts and the realization of a vision of mastery in climbing.
The speaker reflects on a climbing experience where they achieved a state of flow and executed near flawlessly on a challenging climb. Despite not completing the climb, the experience brought a sense of joy and satisfaction, highlighting the importance of being present and enjoying the process.
The speaker recounts a memorable climbing session where they attempted a challenging climb and showcased exceptional climbing abilities. The session was marked by a strong focus on execution, a deep sense of flow, and a connection to the experience, representing a moment of clarity and achievement.
The speaker expresses gratitude for the climbing experiences that have allowed them to push their limits and find joy in the process. Each climb, whether successful or not, has contributed to their growth as a climber and their understanding of mastery in their chosen style.
The podcast episode delves into the speaker's reflections on successful climbing achievements, attributing importance to personal growth rather than solely focusing on grading climbs. The speaker shares experiences of trying challenging routes like Burden of Dreams, emphasizing the journey and enjoyment of climbing over solely achieving a specific grade. This perspective highlights the balance between ambition and authentic climbing experiences, showcasing the value of exploration and personal enjoyment in climbing.
Discussions in the podcast shed light on Finland as a climbing destination beyond specific boulders like Burden of Dreams, showcasing the rich landscape and diverse climbing opportunities the country offers. The speaker emphasizes the importance of exploring various climbing locations in Finland, highlighting the quality of rock and the potential for new developments and first ascents. This broader perspective encourages climbers to explore and appreciate the diversity of climbing experiences available in Finland.
The conversation explores the speaker's journey in climbing, focusing on personal growth, motivations, and the balance between ambition and enjoyment. The speaker reflects on the role of climbing achievements in personal development, emphasizing the importance of staying true to inspiration and finding fulfillment in the climbing process. This introspective discussion highlights the speaker's evolving perspectives on climbing goals and the significance of personal experiences beyond grades and achievements.
Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17.
We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing.
Watch the Video Interview:
EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns — Uncut Video
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:04:59) – Recooperation phase
(00:08:18) – Powering through
(00:10:24) – Course corrections
(00:13:58) – Climbing as his work
(00:21:45) – Enduring austerity
(00:24:17) – His role as a pro climber
(00:29:28) – Our relationships with climbing
(00:35:54) – Navigating pro climbing
(00:45:44) – Valuing integrity
(00:49:11) – Climbing media & being impressionable
(00:52:51) – Reflecting on experiences
(01:04:23) – Aidan’s last year and a half
(01:08:54) – The Midnight Project (Arrival of the Birds)
(01:33:30) – Trying Burden last Fall
(01:41:47) – Ticino with Shawn Raboutou
(01:46:41) – Back to The Midnight Project
(01:50:28) – The Helvellyn Project (Spots of Time)
(02:03:39) – Training in the UK last winter
(02:07:03) – Sending Spots of Time
(02:08:18) – Sending Arrival of the Birds
(02:30:31) – Glimpsing mastery
(02:33:33) – Appreciating the places we climb
(02:38:06) – Proposing grades
(02:52:01) – Is Arrival of the Birds 9A+?
(03:08:35) – Exhausted & reexamining eating
(03:12:42) – His foot injury & next climbing steps
(03:14:23) – Plans for an EXTRA
(03:18:22) – An adventurous attitude
(03:20:04) – Burden of Dreams
(03:26:03) – Finnish bouldering
(03:32:48) – Wrap up
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