The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zack Emery Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-5Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:26) – Plans for season 2 of Fundamentals!(00:04:12) – Why picking the right project matters(00:05:41) – Jesse’s experience on Turbulence V11/12 in Leavenworth, WA(00:07:05) – My experience on Eternia V11 in RMNP, CO(00:09:39) – Jesse’s epic to climb his first V10 in OR(00:11:34) – Times I’ve botched it with picking projects, and a good experience on Crime Wave 5.13d at Smith Rock, OR(00:15:58) – Jesse’s experience with Boxcar 5.13c at the Rat Cave, OR(00:17:04) – Steven’s Tip #1: If you are trying to do the hardest thing you have ever done, make everything else easy(00:18:09) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Ask yourself the ABC questions: Is it accessible, badass, and challenging?(00:21:03) – Bonus Tip: Know thyself(00:22:08) – Steven’s Tip #2: Remember that grades are a relative difficulty marker and they’re not absolute(00:24:01) – Jesse’s Tip #2: A V-grade is a poor substitute for motivation(00:27:16) – Steven’s Tip #3: Think about what your last 3 months, 6 months, and year have looked like in terms of your climbing(00:27:56) – Steven’s Tip #4: Think about what the 1 and 2 month lead up time to the project is going to look like (and choose a pre-project if you can)(00:29:55) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Once you’ve committed to trying to do something, it’s ok if you only want to do it because of the grade/difficulty(00:33:55) – Steven’s Tip #5: Pick a challenge that excites you(00:37:27) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overcommitting to a tick list,  and not leaving room for serendipity(00:40:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Picking a limit project that is a pain in the ass in one or more ways(00:42:13) – Jesse’s realization from trying The Teacup V13 in Leavenworth, WA(00:43:00) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Letting all of your other climbing suffer because you are just trying one project (I.e. Be careful about oneitis!)(00:45:35) – Bonus Tip: Take the things you see on Instagram with a grain of salt(00:48:00) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Picking a limit project with a single low-percentage move(00:50:45) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Listening too much to other people (Don’t let yourself be put in a box!)(00:53:02) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not adjusting the grade appropriately to find the correct level of challenge(00:54:20) – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Picking a project just because it’s there(00:54:50) – Jesse’s Pitfall #5: Not giving yourself a break between hard projects(00:56:37) – Summaries are in the show notes!(00:57:17) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Learn to pay attention to that little voice in your head that tells you what’s inspiring(00:58:04) – Steven’s Top Tip: If you trying to do the hardest thing you’ve ever done, stack all the cards in your favor

Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingTom’s Other Episodes:EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021)Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022)Sam’s Other Episodes:EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-and-samNuggets:0:08:10 – Pee bottles, Tom’s advice for vanlife peeing activities0:10:11 – The Ultimate Peeing Van Bodily Fluid Dilema0:12:57 – Welcoming Tom and Sam back on the podcast, and their other episodes (see show notes for links)0:13:59 – Tom’s busy life, and being extremely intentional about what he chooses to do0:15:58 – Tom’s quest to find the ultimate climbing  experience in a single pitch, and climbing ‘Once Upon a Time’ E90:20:04 – Why are we recording an entire episode about YouTube?0:23:49 – How often Tom gets recognized from YouTube, and why he’s so interested in where things are going0:26:10 – It’s still early on YouTube0:28:32 – Why is Shawn Raboutou starting his Vlog one of the biggest things to happen in climbing media in recent years?0:33:11 – Why more pro climbers will likely move over to YouTube, and YouTube vs. Instagram payouts0:36:35 – Why is YouTube the future of climbing media?0:40:50 – Why long-form podcasts are similar to YouTube vlogs0:43:44 – Why I launched a YouTube channel for The Nugget (link in show notes!)0:46:20 – Why YouTube wins over static content0:49:46 – What Tom has learned from growing the Lattice Training channel0:52:57 – The importance of packaging your content well, the behind-the-scenes of YouTubing, comparing Anna Hazelnutt and Adam Ondra’s channels, and how much it costs to run a YouTube channel1:00:25 – How technology levels the playing field for content creators1:01:49 – How much do people make on YouTube, and where does the money come from?1:07:27 – The keys to being successful on YouTube1:12:55 – How hard Magnus Midtbø works to make his channel successful (see show notes for his podcast episode)1:14:09 – Sam’s 3 keys to being successful on YouTube: Title, Topic, and Thumbnail1:16:40 – The importance of organization and systems1:19:12 – Sam’s recommendations for The Nugget’s channel, and filling out the ecosystem of the channel1:23:58 – Tom’s advice for me, and making content specific to the platform you plan to share it on1:32:49 – Why aren’t brands doing more on YouTube?1:36:09 – What should climbing brands be doing as far as YouTube is concerned?1:40:21 – Behind the scenes with brand sponsorships1:43:55 – Tom’s advice for anyone who is thinking of starting a YouTube channel, and the hard work it takes to be successful1:48:59 – What Tom is most excited to see on YouTube1:50:36 – What Sam is most excited to see on YouTube1:51:39 – What I am most excited to see on YouTube1:53:23 – Wrap up, Tom’s upcoming trip to Austria, and Sam’s upcoming trips in the States1:57:57 – Watch full uncut podcast videos on Patreon

Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing!Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out LMNT!DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGETUse this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Renzollama Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-4Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:23) – Jesse’s realization about his climbing style, and wanting to climb taller(00:06:23) – My interest in getting better at straight-on roof climbing(00:07:47) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Structure your technical practice(00:10:38) – Skills are specific to the intensity of the movement(00:12:25) – My philosophy for improving technique and how it differs from Jesse’s(00:14:23) – Steven’s Tip #1: Become really interested in becoming a better climber(00:15:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Technique starts with creativity(00:16:53) – The lesson Jesse learned from Pangalactic Gargleblaster(00:19:30) – Steven’s Tip #2: Watch climbing videos(00:22:21) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Film yourself incessently(00:26:27) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do perfect repeats(00:29:33) – Steven’s Tip #4: Film yourself and review the video between tries(00:30:59) – The confidence that comes from having footage of yourself climbing well(00:33:48) – “We tend to believe the things we tell ourselves.”(00:36:26) – Jesse’s Tip #4 (from Kim!): Speak the language(00:38:31) – Steven’s Tip #5: Do the one and two-star climbs at your home crag(00:40:33) – Bonus Tip: Frustration is usually a sign that there is room for improvement(00:42:12) – Bonus Tip: Have your friends set problems for you on the spray wall(00:42:12) – The satisfaction of climbing a scrappy or unpleasant climb really gracefully(00:43:34) – “Take me to a moderate that I’ve never heard of.”(00:43:56) – Jesse’s Tip #5: Treat your flexibility as a skill, and practice it on the wall(00:48:38) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Assuming you’ve learned everything there is to learn(00:51:33) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Assuming that if something looks good it must be good technique(00:55:08) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Going through the motions(00:56:38) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Becoming too robotic with your technique practice(00:58:36) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Expecting gym technique to transfer to outdoor climbing(01:02:25) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not training your technique in your strong areas(01:03:51) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Avoiding the things that you’re bad at and turning everything into your style(01:06:14) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Be endlessly curious about how you’re moving on the wall(01:06:31) – Steven’s Top Tip: Become very interested in climbing better and bring that intention to your climbing

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from 80+ days projecting the route, how he changed his diet to feel his healthiest at age 48, discovering his own personal climbing mantra, finding flow state, the value of trying something at your limit, and much more!Check out Tim's Instagram post about Era VellaBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:24:37.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTim’s Original Episode:EP 107: Tim Emmett (Feb 21, 2022) 

Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeannie-wallNuggets:0:08:38 – Overview of our conversation, and growing up as the youngest of 11 children0:14:22 – Baggage and benefits from her upbringing, and being competitive as a racer0:16:52 – The chapter of life that Jeannie is in now, and learning patience0:19:22 – Competing at the Olympic Trials for nordic skiing, and why she doesn’t miss competing and racing0:23:58 – Shifting toward climbing, and how she has changed in her 50s0:25:38 – Examples of people climbing hard in their 60s, and Jeannie’s hut ski trip0:28:07 – Why Jeannie finally got hooked on climbing0:34:12 – Getting Swine Flu, dealing with chronic fatigue for two years, and finding a different path in climbing0:36:14 – “If you wanna go fast, you have to go slow most of the time.”0:41:31 – How media influences us in climbing, and giving the last 10% to be excellent at something0:47:02 – My inner tension with bouldering, the role of mentorship, and Jeannie’s story of climbing Fitz Roy0:54:42 – Challenge and risk as key parts of the human experience1:01:18 – “If we’re not learning are we really happy?”1:05:25 – Engaging with the edge of our comfort zone1:07:13 – The pressure to be someone other than who you are1:12:33 – The value of pursuing your passion1:15:05 – Wildness, and why Jeannie and Leslie started Broad Beta1:24:20 – Heroes, looking at the whole person, and the stories of ordinary people doing extraordinary things1:28:42 – Why stories are so powerful1:33:02 – Sharing the whole story, and Jeannie’s menopause article1:38:09 – Jeannie’s vision for Broad Beta1:45:12 – Where to find Broad Beta1:47:10 – Wrap up and final questions

Tips and pitfalls for sport climbing trips are discussed, including the importance of having a good partner, training beforehand, and making smart decisions. Stories from past climbing trips and reflections on improving climbing skills are shared. Advice on layering strategies, navigating climbing success, and optimizing trips for skill improvement is also featured.

Caleb Robinson is an ex-competitive soccer player, elite boulderer, route setter, and photographer. He started climbing at age 17 and sent his first V13 in just four years. We talked about the biggest lessons he learned from competitive soccer, how deadlifting fixed his back, a typical week of training, his finger training journey, the power of consistency over time, finding his artistic expression in photography, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caleb-robinsonNuggets:0:07:20 – A Thursday in the life of Caleb Robinson0:08:55 – New Year’s Resolutions, and building habits over time0:11:24 – Climbing V13 in the first few years of climbing, and how competitive soccer informed his climbing and training approach0:16:05 – How deadlifting fixed Caleb’s back0:21:08 – Being enamored with soccer, and why he quit soccer and started climbing0:24:07 – There’s no middle ground in conventional team sports, and why climbing is so special0:29:16 – Uncle —> karate gym —> climbing0:34:00 – “The hard work that you don’t want to do pays off.”0:36:04 – “Intelligence is just as important as physical prowess.”0:36:45 – Quadzilla, and connecting between the upper body and lower body0:40:42 – How “hard work pays off” applies to Caleb’s climbing0:42:41 – Being a self-learner, and having intention0:49:12 – Training resources and athletes that have guided Caleb’s approach0:52:26 – Experimenting with training, focusing on being good at climbing, and avoiding common mistakes and pitfalls0:59:24 – How Caleb developed his technique, and the importance of climbing with people who are better than you1:02:57 – Having a mobility routine, dedicating time to recovery, and missing snowboarding1:08:40 – Caleb’s finger-training journey1:19:50 – The value of consistency + simplicity, and sticking with it when progress slows (and Caleb’s love affair with Dave MacLeod)1:27:17 – What Caleb’s finger training progress looked like over the two years that he did max hangs1:31:41 – Caleb’s grip positions for hangboarding1:33:52 – How his finger training has changed in the past year, and learning to apply his finger strength to climbing1:38:13 – What a typical training week looks like for Caleb1:45:16 – Why Caleb started route setting1:47:21 – A typical training week now as a route setter1:49:31 – Caleb’s philosophy about skills, finger strength, and core strength, and his stable workouts right now (board climbing, campusing on the spray wall, etc)1:52:32 – Caleb’s core training routine1:58:01 – Why Caleb focuses on maximal effort training1:59:12 – The importance of quality practice2:00:32 – “Success comes with consistency over a long period of time”, and Caleb’s photography career2:03:07 – Moody Russian painters2:04:31 – Finding his own artistic expression in photography, and the collaborative side of taking portraits2:10:42 – Taking the long view as an athlete and artist2:13:32 – The one thing Caleb wishes people spent more time thinking about2:19:24 – Wrap up and what’s next

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:53:31.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAidan’s Original Episode:EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022)

The Nugget is now on YouTube! We'll be sharing top clips from the podcast along with never-before-seen content. Subscribe before Feb 28th to enter to win a Training Bundle from Chalk Cartel, Frictitious Climbing, and Rhino Skin Solutions!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing

Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:22) – A favorite memory from Jesse’s trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 2017(00:11:12) – Top out views(00:12:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads(00:16:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible(00:20:21) – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training(00:22:51) – Steven’s Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you’re trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day)(00:24:56) – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”)(00:25:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!)(00:30:01) – Steven’s Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders(00:32:41) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders)(00:35:01) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff(00:36:28) – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try(00:36:49) – Steven’s Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!)(00:39:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 1(00:40:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have)(00:41:46) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing(00:42:59) – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day)(00:44:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have(00:46:45) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect(00:48:02) – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade(00:48:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety(00:52:40) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics(00:53:23) – Steven’s Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you