The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:22) – A favorite memory from Jesse’s trip to Rocklands, and my week-long trip to Bishop in 2017(00:11:12) – Top out views(00:12:06) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Try to have a mix of crash pads(00:16:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Make your preparation as specific as possible(00:20:21) – Bonus Tip: Two things that people miss in their bouldering training(00:22:51) – Steven’s Tip #2: Decide really quickly whether or not the boulder you’re trying is important for you (and have an intention for the trip and each climbing day)(00:24:56) – Bonus Tip: Be mindful of the language that you use with yourself (e.g. “I should be able to do this.”)(00:25:35) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Organize your gear and car before your trip (and stash some emergency snacks in your bag!)(00:30:01) – Steven’s Tip #3: Bring everything you think you might need to the boulders(00:32:41) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Know basic bouldering ethics, and know how to move efficiently in a group (and be polite at the boulders)(00:35:01) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take breaks to run around and look at cool stuff(00:36:28) – Bonus Tip: Take your climbing shoes off between every try(00:36:49) – Steven’s Tip #5: Sleep on a decent bed (and bring your pillow!)(00:39:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Blowing through all of your skin on day 1(00:40:22) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Getting socially exhausted (i.e. be mindful of how much social energy you have)(00:41:46) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Spending the whole day “warming up” to do the hard thing(00:42:59) – Bonus Tip: Learn how to warm up with minimal climbing (and be ruthlessly realistic about how much time you have and what you can do in a day)(00:44:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not being mindful of how much total energy you have(00:46:45) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Blowing it with timing when it comes to conditions and sun/aspect(00:48:02) – Bonus Tip: Try to find out when your project goes into the shade(00:48:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not taking responsibility for your own safety(00:52:40) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Know good bouldering ethics(00:53:23) – Steven’s Top Tip: Decide quickly whether the bouldering you are trying is important to you

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torrNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery(00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery(00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury(00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta(00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression(00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.”(00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!(00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients(00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients(00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers(00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action(00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training(01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts(01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower(01:21:00) – Limbic friction(01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”(01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing(01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers(01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home(01:45:03) – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?(01:51:59) – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do(01:54:43) – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day(01:56:54) – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement(02:02:17) – Having agency in your recovery(02:03:51) – Leg kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body(02:07:05) – Setting the bar super low(02:08:23) – Staying on the bus(02:11:39) – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period(02:20:10) – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar(02:21:41) – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength(02:28:22) – The secret to finger strength is….(02:31:45) – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing(02:35:16) – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer(02:40:58) – Writing yourself a letter(02:43:12) – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life(02:45:00) – 3 key lessons from Ollie(02:51:49) – How to back off after a peak performance(02:56:47) – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”(03:01:45) – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under-recovering(03:09:41) – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”(03:16:36) – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)(03:25:01) – My 2021 summer season in RMNP(03:28:18) – Removing the friction in your life around climbing(03:31:53) – Take action on something(03:34:48) – Thankful for the Lattice Team(03:36:42) – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJordan’s Original Episode:EP 115: Jordan Cannon  (April 18, 2022)

Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-1Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:53) – Jesse’s story of breaking his toe in Thailand, and my first-ever bouldering trip to Bishop CA(00:06:28) – Lessons from our first failed climbing trips(00:09:11) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Set the tone for the trip early(00:12:11) – Jesse’s Tip #2: On a week-long trip, always rest the second day(00:13:58) – Patience, and taking a week or two to acclimate on longer trips(00:17:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Be open(00:21:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Climb some easy things(00:23:47) – Bonus Tip: Pay some attention to what your climbing values are(00:24:10) – Steven’s Tip #3: Go look at tons of stuff(00:25:51) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Minimize the decisions you have to make right after climbing(00:27:24) – Try to avoid survival mode(00:29:09) – Steven’s Tip #4: Measure the success of the trip in experiences, and not in sends(00:31:28) – Bonus Tip: Set process-oriented goals rather than achievement-oriented goals (and scrap the tick list)(00:34:12) – How complicated it is to climb well on a trip(00:37:34) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: When people recommend climbs to you, keep in mind that they almost always recommend climbs that they had good experiences on, not things that are objectively good(00:39:11) – My first trip to The Red, Jesse’s first trip to Hueco, and thoughts on training for your first trip to a new area(00:41:55) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Don’t train right up until the trip, and don’t try to cram your training in at the last second (show up rested)(00:45:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Spending the entire trip on one climb(00:46:07) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Climbing way too much(00:47:21) – Bonus Tip: Be genuinely interested in other people’s climbing(00:49:01) – Bonus Tip: It’s ok to climb a lot on a trip, but be sure to rest appropriately afterward(00:52:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Wrecking your skin(00:54:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not getting the intensity right(00:57:52) – The sunk cost fallacy on a trip(00:58:57) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Set the tone early in the trip(00:59:37) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be open(01:00:31) – Wrap up

Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber.  We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon!Listen to Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone

Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anna-hazelnuttNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:08:20) – Anna’s childhood room(00:10:00) – Plans for Austria(00:11:21) – What we would talk about if we were doing a 6-hour podcast(00:12:50) – Switching places, and the names of our Subarus(00:14:35) – What is Anna’s last name? (Hazelnutt? Hazlett?)(00:17:39) – Lynn Hill gave a shoutout to Anna on The Nugget(00:19:41) – How Anna got started in climbing, and how she found her slab/trad niche(00:24:40) – Anna’s climbing identity, not letting herself grow comfortable, and her competitive side(00:28:57) – Balancing intensity and comedy(00:30:10) – What Anna does to relax (reading books, writing poetry, art), and having trouble sitting still(00:33:30) – Getting an overuse injury from too much slab climbing, and sending ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 6c in the UK(00:35:53) – Anna’s “belaytioship” with Tom Randall(00:39:29) – Going back for ‘Walk of Life’ E9(00:41:33) – More context about Once Upon a Time and Walk of Life, using skyhooks as trad climbing gear, and taking an hour to lead a 50-meter slab(00:45:38) – Anna’s approach to projecting, and breaking down the climb into chapters(00:50:14) – The chapter names of ‘Walk of Life’ E9(00:55:32) – Teasing more about toe training, and Anna’s thoughts on hangboard tests(01:01:01) – Some context about the 9c test(01:02:53) – Toe training!(01:07:11) – How Anna inspired Tom to work on flexibility(01:09:15) – Leaning into our superpowers(01:14:53) – Anna’s dreamboard, and seeking out hard climbs that fit her style(01:19:30) – How and when Anna did her toe training, and nighttime training at Tom’s house(01:24:09) – How hard are the hardest slabs in the world, and what will it take for Anna to climb them(01:28:45) – Why vertical bouldering is so different from steep bouldering when it comes to pushing your limits(01:31:23) – Anna’s thoughts on slab grades, and how they are often unfairly sandbagged(01:38:04) – Patron question from Jonathan: Does Anna have any training tips for slab climbing? (Anna shares her top slab training exercises: toe training, flexibility, balance, and more)(01:41:20) – Pull-ups on micro edges, and the smallest holds Anna can do pull-ups on(01:43:19) – Shoulder exercises for slab(01:44:12) – Do coordination gym slabs help with outdoor slabs?(01:46:59) – Shoes for hard slabs like ‘Meltdown’ 9a (5.14d)(01:52:54) – Question from Ethan Pringle: What are some synonyms for success in rock climbing that aren’t violent or war-like?(01:58:52) – Another question from Ethan: Where does Anna’s work ethic come from?(02:02:55) – Anna’s sensitivity(02:04:14) – Dealing with negative comments and hate from dudes on the internet(02:09:31) – An example of a disgusting comment that Anna received from someone on her YouTube page(02:16:14) – Anna’s story about a recent comment she and her sister got at the gym(02:21:18) – Patron question from James: How can we make women feel more comfortable and included at the crag and at the gym?(02:23:31) – Anna’s thoughts on intention, awareness, curiosity, and acting with empathy and compassion(02:28:27) – What makes Anna feel safe vs unsafe in a climbing gym setting(02:31:32) – How the burden often falls on the people who are inflicted and don’t assume(02:35:45) – Derek Sivers, and why we should just treat everyone the same while respecting their lived experience(02:39:17) – Some more thoughts about progressivism, and being willing to own your mistakes(02:41:34) – Comedy as a mechanism for change, and studying biochemical neuroscience and English(02:42:32) – The change that Anna is trying to make through her videos(02:47:07) – Giving others permission(02:49:28) – What Anna feels excited about right now in her climbing(02:51:01) – What Anna feels excited about right now with her YouTube channel(02:52:59) – Anna’s sources of income(02:54:54) – Being a hand model for a Sofie Tucker music video(02:56:41) – The difference between YouTube and podcasts(03:00:35) – Final question from Ethan: Does Anna have specific goals that are lifetime achievement goals?(03:06:43) – Empathy(03:09:20) – Wrap up

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full version is 1:34:15.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyler’s Other Episodes:EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021)Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)

Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I’ve faced along the way.Check out The Climbing Zine!climbingzine.comCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/luke-mehallNuggets:0:05:18 – What Luke learned from Tim (the owner of Zia Taqueria) about business0:10:48 – Why Luke started The Climbing Zine0:13:11 – What characterizes a zine?0:17:59 – The theme that connects all of the stories Luke chooses for The Climbing Zine0:20:43 – Finding authors and stories, and why Luke almost never assigns stories/topics0:22:46 – How climbing gave Luke his life and saved him from substance abuse and depression0:26:37 – Why you can’t rely just on climbing for your happiness0:27:55 – Sharing vulnerable stories that others can relate to0:29:26 – Luke’s vision for his brand, and how he hopes to share his personal story through film0:34:53 – How to protect the thing you love when your creative work becomes your job0:38:57 – How Luke uses therapy to talk about his goals, and having a hype man0:42:13 – Steven’s origin story with The Nugget, and what I am trying to do by sharing people’s stories0:50:15 – What all of these interviews have brought to my life0:55:01 – The most challenging parts of building The Nugget into a sustainable business1:02:19 – Desiring routine and seasons1:04:27 – My favorite podcasting moments1:08:19 – Sustaining the effort, paying it forward, and closing thoughts from both me and Luke

New interview featuring me! Isabel von Rittberg is a good friend of mine and the host of Kegels and Coffee. She interviewed me on her podcast earlier this year to talk about my experience with my first-ever panic attack in December of 2021. We talked about what led up to the panic attack and how it was a wake-up call for me, how to stay sane while getting the work done, and much more.*This was one of the most vulnerable interviews I’ve done. And it’s one of my favorites. Hope you enjoy :) Listen to more episodes of Kegels and Coffee!kegelsandcoffee.com We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-on-kegels-and-coffee

I often get asked, “what is your favorite interview you’ve ever done?” Firstly, I don’t have a favorite. But if I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE, it would be this episode. Alan Watts is a fascinating character in climbing history and a personal hero of mine. This interview was such a treat. I loved revisiting it for this repost. Enjoy!*This episode was originally published in EP 04, in February 2020.Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face Crack’ in 1985—just shy of the world standard. We talked about eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang’s shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution” to the sport of climbing. Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alan-watts-repostNuggets:0:09:16 – The evolution of dirtbagging, early road life, Smith as a safe zone, “there were no routes”0:14:07 – Eating every other day0:26:47 – Abstainers vs moderators0:31:02 – Bill Ramsey, UO, and climbing “every variation imaginable” at the Columns0:36:03 – Connecting with the people you need0:38:40 – Inferiority complex and pushing to improve0:40:04 – A paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to climbing faces0:46:11 – Stumbling upon sport climbing and going from being a decent climber to a really good climber0:48:29 – Redpoint tactics, ethics, and borrowing from the Europeans0:52:39 – ‘Corner No. 1’, how ‘Chain Reaction’ got its name, and reaching the world standard at Smith Rock0:54:28 – 11b to 13d in six years, ‘Punks in the Gym’, and pushing world standards0:55:44 – Meeting Heinz Zak and Wolfgang’s t-shirt0:58:52 – Pioneering Smith Rock film by Hydro Flask, and going back to the summer of ’85, and ‘East Face Crack’ 5.13d1:04:01 – Other hard crack climbs and ‘Double Stain’1:05:25 – 7 days prepping ‘Sunshine Wall’ and the story of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be’1:11:34 – Climbing every day, injuries, and killing the goose that laid the golden eggs1:22:15 – Hip surgery and meeting Adam Ondra1:31:00 – Adam’s post about meeting Alan, and Adam’s onsight of ‘Just Do It’ 5.14c1:36:52 – Adam’s photo book (Alan-“What the hell? How did I make the cut?”)1:38:17 – The Awl project, “I do not want to FAIL!”1:40:44 – Bolting futuristic projects, thinking anything was possible, and bolting ‘Just Do It’ for a TV show in 19891:48:23 – “I used to visualize before that was what you were supposed to do”1:52:00 – “Fucking hard green route”1:54:15 – Alan’s finger strength, hanging from one hand for (almost) a minute, and gym vs. outdoor climbing2:01:18 – The updated Smith Rock guidebook2:02:26 – Alan’s box of tights2:05:20 – The 100 book list and projecting difficult books2:10:27 – Working on the guidebook and connecting with the people2:15:19 – The (lack of) ways to connect with Alan2:17:01 – A slice of contribution in a little tiny sport2:19:53 – “He’s cheating”, and Alan’s funny recurring dream