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Alex recounts his solo link-ups in Zion and Red Rock, where he climbed multiple hard routes in a day and had epic adventures in challenging conditions, showcasing his passion for big, bold climbing.
Alex discusses his experience with onsight soloing, where he tests himself against classic routes without prior rehearsal. He shares stories of tackling difficult cracks in Zion and Red Rock, highlighting the mental and physical challenges of soloing in unpredictable conditions.
Reflecting on the achievements of other climbers like Chris Sharma and Boone Speed, Alex contrasts his own accomplishments, recognizing his own strengths and acknowledging the natural talent and early successes of his peers.
Alex discusses his aspirations to climb harder routes and acknowledges the need for more strength and power. He contemplates the possibility of dedicating more time to high-performance climbing and adjusting his training habits to focus on specific goals.
While attempting a traverse in Red Rock, the narrator found themselves in a dire situation where they were about to soil themselves on a blank face with no ledges. They made a few emergency moves to reach a secure jug, but ultimately ended up taking a poop off route. Climbing the last pitch with their pants around their ankles, they finally found a ledge to clean up. Despite the embarrassing experience, they continued with their climb.
During a solo ascent of El Capitan, the narrator had to take an emergency dump midway through. They found a discreet chimney behind the spire and went further in to ensure cleanliness and minimal impact. While it may not be conventional, the narrator justified the choice due to the unique circumstances of a solo ascent.
One main idea discussed in the podcast is the importance of considering our environmental impact and making conscious lifestyle choices. The speaker encourages people to think about the consequences of their actions and make choices that have a positive impact on the environment. This includes being mindful of our consumption habits, choosing sustainable options, and questioning the necessity of certain products or activities. The speaker highlights the need for more intentionality in our daily lives and the potential for personal and collective change if we prioritize environmental awareness.
Another main point explored in the podcast is the speaker's perspective on finding inspiration in climbing and other people. The speaker emphasizes the importance of drawing inspiration from various sources, not only from elite climbers or renowned figures, but also from individuals who excel in specific areas of their lives. They mention being inspired by climbers who demonstrate commitment and excellence, as well as individuals who exhibit a deep passion and joy for their activities. The speaker encourages an open-minded and humbled approach to learning from others, recognizing that everyone has something unique to offer.
Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough. Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnold
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:04:21) – Interviews and TED Talks
(00:07:25) – Finding new terrain for this interview
(00:08:05) – Epic solo linkup in Zion
(00:11:16) – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress’… again
(00:12:08) – Why do these big solo linkups?
(00:12:56) – Epic solo linkup in Red Rock
(00:14:54) – Foot pain on big walls and vitamin I
(00:17:41) – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune’s Buttress’ and ‘Resolution Arete’
(00:20:34) – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed
(00:21:29) – Solos that fly under the radar
(00:22:47) – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso’ in Mexico
(00:25:17) – The limits of free soloing
(00:28:31) – Quantum leaps
(00:30:16) – Yosemite soloing, and Alex vs. top sport climbers
(00:32:22) – Chris Sharma's FA of ‘Necessary Evil’ 5.14c (8c+), and the role of talent
(00:35:40) – Will Alex climb 5.15a (9a+)?
(00:38:33) – Dad strength
(00:39:46) – Vegas gyms and homewall dreams
(00:49:34) – Near misses
(00:55:34) – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps’ in Riglos Spain
(00:57:46) – Competing with Ethan Pringle, soloing ‘Shune’s Butress’ in the snow, and the tree story
(01:03:16) – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger’, Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals
(01:04:22) – The physiological limits of ‘The Nose’ speed record
(01:08:06) – Breaking ‘The Nose’ speed record
(01:10:47) – Biggest lessons from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft
(01:14:26) – Inspiration, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou
(01:18:15) – Following the climbing news
(01:19:01) – Who Alex is most impressed by, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)
(01:20:35) – New season of Climbing Gold
(01:22:13) – Favorite interviews on Climbing Gold
(01:23:28) – Corporate speaking and interviewing Stone Masters
(01:26:24) – Climbing Gold uncut interviews
(01:28:37) – Pooping while free soloing stories
(01:34:56) – Shit-puting, and pooping while soloing El Cap
(01:36:29) – Filming Free Solo and the Warrior Spirit
(01:38:54) – The commitment to excellence
(01:41:05) – Plans for the PNW
(01:43:57) – “More intention never hurt.”
(01:44:47) – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”
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