#32: Finger Strength Training and Wilderness Medicine Interviews
Dec 20, 2023
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Explore the fascinating world of finger strength training and its importance for climbers, revealing that over 40% face chronic injuries. Discover targeted techniques to enhance grip strength while ensuring core stability. Delve into the initiatives driving wilderness medicine education in Chile, bolstering mountain rescue skills and community collaboration. Hear insights from experienced clinicians about the significance of proper nutrition over supplements for athletic performance, emphasizing a balanced diet for injury prevention.
The podcast highlights the importance of proper finger strength training techniques for climbers to prevent injuries, which are prevalent in the sport.
It emphasizes the significance of a balanced diet over nutritional supplements for climbers, arguing that most supplements are ineffective and misrepresented.
International collaboration in wilderness medicine education is showcased through initiatives like the foundational diploma in mountain medicine held in Chile.
Deep dives
Foundational Diploma of Mountain Medicine in Latin America
The first-ever foundational diploma of mountain medicine was held in Latin America, specifically at the Colchawa Glacier in Chile, organized by the Grupo de Rescate de Medico de Montaña (GRIMM). Participants, including doctors and guides, aimed to enhance their skills in mountain medicine and rescue operations. This initiative underscores the growing interest and need for advanced training in wilderness medicine in the region. The course not only provided practical knowledge but also encouraged international collaboration in medical training.
Finger Strength Training and Climbing Injuries
The discussion focused on sports-specific finger strength training for climbers and the potential for related injuries. Research indicates that over 40% of chronic climbing injuries involve fingers, with nearly 70% of climbers experiencing some form of finger injury in the past three years. The podcast emphasized proper fingerboard training techniques, highlighting that many climbers misuse them and engage in endurance activities rather than targeted strength training. A key takeaway is that with proper training, fingerboard exercises can protect against injuries rather than exacerbate them.
Climbing Training and Injury Prevention Insights
The conversation shifted to different types of training for climbers, such as the importance of engaging core and shoulder muscles while using fingerboards. It was mentioned that proper finger training should not solely focus on larger muscle groups but should specifically develop smaller intrinsic finger muscles to prevent injuries. The tendency among climbers to perform excessive, incorrectly-focused exercises on fingerboards was critiqued, with an emphasis on using them correctly to strengthen finger flexors. This helps in reducing injury risk, particularly for advancements in climbing difficulty.
Collaboration in Wilderness Medicine Education
The Wilderness Medicine Society (WMS) has been taking substantial steps to collaborate and improve wilderness medicine education for students and residents. Initiatives include updating access opportunities for wilderness medicine electives and offering a robust journal club program that allows participants to earn free continuing medical education credits. Current committee leaders emphasize the importance of increased access and quality of education in wilderness medicine, aiming to foster a supportive community among aspiring medical professionals. The committee's activities encourage networking and professional growth through various collaborative opportunities.
Nutritional Considerations for Climbers
The podcast tackled the topic of nutritional supplements within the climbing community, emphasizing that most climbers do not need supplements if they maintain a healthy diet. It was pointed out that over 90% of supplements are not accurately represented, leading to inefficacies in enhancing performance. The discussion included skepticism regarding collagen supplements, which do not significantly improve collagen production in the body. Emphasis was placed on a balanced diet being more effective than any supplement for training and recovery in climbing.
#32: Finger Strength Training and Wilderness Medicine Interviews
Dec 2023
Wilderness & Environmental Medicine journal online: www.wemjournal.org
Questions/comments/feedback and/or interest in participating? Send an email to: WMPodcast@wms.org
Part 1: Journal Club: A Finger in the Game: Sport-Specific Finger Strength Training and Onset of Injury
Link to article: https://www.wemjournal.org/article/S1080-6032(23)00110-2/fulltext
CME Available for WMS members. [TO COME]
Part 2: Darryl Macias’s on-location interview with Drs. Nicolás Mena and Martin Musi at the Chile Summer DiMM Program
Part 3: Fred Bossert interviews WMS committee leaders Drs. Jesse Gehner and Justin Gardner.
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