317: Averie Swanson of Keeping Together is Envisioning Our Saison Future
Aug 18, 2023
auto_awesome
Averie Swanson, longtime saison brewer and founder of Keeping Together, discusses exploring flavor in saison with unconventional grain bases, downplaying Brettanomyces in mixed culture fermentation, and using acidity as an element of structure. They also touch on the influence of Tank Seven, the importance of local ingredients, creative brewing within constraints, and unique flavor experiences like using spent fornet botanicals that tasted like granola.
Saison offers a broad palette for brewers to explore flavors by using diverse grain bases and experimenting with new ingredients.
Working within constraints can foster creativity in craft beer brewing.
Maintaining balance and control in the brewing process is key to achieving desired flavor profiles over time.
Deep dives
Building a Culture of Creativity in Santa Fe
Creating a culture of creativity in Santa Fe allows for the expression of unique brewing ideas. Craft beer can be a blank canvas, offering a range of interpretations. The author incorporates oats into most of their beers to provide texture. They experiment with various malt types, including spelt and raw wheat, and mash at a relatively high temperature to create body and texture. They use a mixed culture that includes Saccharomyces yeast, partly propagated from their previous brewing experience, as well as lactobacillus for acidity. The author also emphasizes the importance of working within constraints to foster creativity and the idea of drinking beer fresh while also allowing for aging to unveil different flavors over time.
The Journey of Avery Swanson in Craft Beer Brewing
Avery Swanson's journey in craft beer brewing started as a hobby and eventually became a profession. They first enjoyed craft beer before diving into home brewing with a partner. After volunteering at a brewery in Austin, they developed a passion for the craft and embarked on an apprenticeship. Eventually becoming a brewer at the esteemed Jester King Brewery in Austin, Swanson gained valuable experience and developed a deep love for brewing Cezanne-style beers. They later launched their own brand, Keeping Together, focusing on mixed culture brewing. Swanson's brewing philosophy involves creating experiential beers with diverse grain bills and using a variety of flavor-contributing ingredients. Their dedication to craftsmanship and passion for creative brewing sets them apart in the industry.
Crafting Mash Techniques and Developing a Mixed Culture
In their brewing process, Avery Swanson incorporates a range of mash techniques, such as single infusion mashing, and they strive for high mash temperatures to give their beers texture and body. They utilize a mixed culture, which includes ingredients from their previous brewing experience to create complexity and unique flavors. This culture is anchored by Saccharomyces yeast and lactobacillus for acidity. Swanson views Saccharomyces as a key yeast in the brewing process, while acknowledging the challenges of working with Brettanomyces yeast. They emphasize the importance of using hops as flavor contributors while also considering the hop tolerance of lactobacillus. Swanson's approach involves maintaining balance and control over the brewing process to achieve their desired flavor profiles over time.
The Complexity of Beer Styles and the Influence of Locale
Crafting beer styles involves considering numerous factors, including flavors, textures, and regional influences. Avery Swanson highlights the versatility of Cezanne-style beers, which can encompass a wide range of flavors and characteristics. They recognize the evolving nature of beer styles and the influence of cultural experiences. Swanson embraces experimentation with diverse grain bills and unique ingredients to create a distinctive brewing style. They also discuss the challenges and rewards of working with wild yeast and bacteria. The influence of location and access to ingredients, such as malt and water, contributes to the overall complexity of beer styles. Swanson's brewing philosophy aims to create memorable and authentic experiences for consumers by utilizing local ingredients and drawing inspiration from regional influences.
Personal brewing experimentation
The speaker shares their personal brewing experiments and experiences in creating unique flavors and cultures at home. They mention using ingredients like Georgian beer and Brazilian Britannica yeast to cultivate their own cultures. They emphasize the importance of understanding the brewing process and being open to experimentation in order to create unique and interesting beers.
Balancing flavors and embracing unpredictability
The speaker discusses the challenges of balancing flavors and expectations when using unconventional ingredients in brewing. They mention unexpected flavor outcomes, such as a beer with maple-roasted carrots tasting like granola. They emphasize the importance of embracing unpredictability and adjusting to the direction the yeast and ingredients take, rather than trying to force a specific flavor profile. They also express a desire to continue exploring and innovating with different flavors while maintaining a focus on balance and sensory experience.
If Averie Swanson had her way, saison would outsell IPA among craft beer aficionados. The longtime saison brewer hopes to move beyond stereotypes and romanticized history and show (through beautifully designed and constructed beers) that saison provides a broad palette for brewers to explore flavor. With her Keeping Together brand, now based in Santa Fe, New Mexico, she hopes to write a new chapter for saison brewed in the United States.
In this episode, she tackles both the theoretical and the practical, discussing:
building characterful grain bases for saison with everything from smoked malt to oats
designing within constraints
downplaying Brettanomyces in mixed culture fermentation
isolating Saccharomyces and rebuilding a culture around it
testing how new ingredients work in saison
using acidity as an element of structure
And more.
This episode is brought to you by:
G&D Chillers (https://gdchillers.com): For years G&D Chillers has chilled the beers you love, partnering with 3,000+ breweries across the country along the way, and they’re proud of the cool partnerships they’ve built over the past 30 years. Reach out for a quote today at gdchillers.com or call to discuss your next project.
BSG Craft Brewing (https://Bsgcraftbrewing.com/): Want a natural and economical clarification aid that doesn’t impact beer flavor? Then you need Kerry Biofine™ Eco—a plant-based fining agent. Available exclusively from BSG, visit BSGCraftbrewing.com to learn more.
Old Orchard (https://www.oldorchard.com/brewer): Old Orchard's new brewing customers often mention discovering Old Orchard through the word-of-mouth recommendation of another brewer. To join the core of Old Orchard's brewing community, learn more at oldorchard.com/brewer
Accubrew (https://accubrew.io) The AccuBrew system is designed to give you unprecedented insight into the fermentation process. Monitor gravity, fermentation activity, clarity, and temperature, schedule reminders, and receive alerts anywhere, anytime. To learn more about AccuBrew head over to AccuBrew.io
RMS Roller-Grinder (https://rmsroller-grinder.com): Our industry leading mills deliver optimal grind consistency, unlocking the full potential of your grain. Say goodbye to uneven grinds and hello to exceptional flavor extraction. Visit rmsroller-grinder.com to discover how RMS can transform your brewing experience. Omega Yeast (https://omegayeast.com): Thiolized yeast are a new tool for brewers to bring intense guava and passionfruit aromas out of your malt and hops. And wait, there’s more! Omega Yeast makes yeast-to-order with a consistent one week lead time ensuring peak freshness and reliability. Five Star Chemicals (https://fivestarchemicals.com): Keep your brewery running smoothly with Five Star Chemicals. Our cleaning solutions are specifically formulated to meet the unique needs of breweries, ensuring that your equipment stays clean and free of harmful bacteria and contaminants.
ABS Commercial (https://abs-commercial.com): ABS Commercial is proud to offer brewhouses, tanks, keg washers, and small parts to brewers across the country as well as equipment for distilling, cider-making, wine-making, and more! Contact us today at sales@abs-commercial.com to discuss your customized brewery needs. ABS Commercial. We are brewers.
