The Dig

Menswear and the World System w/ Derek Guy

May 29, 2025
Derek Guy, a menswear writer and editor, joins Dennis M. Hogan, a Harvard literature scholar, to discuss the intricate relationship between menswear and socio-political dynamics. They dive into the evolution of men's fashion, exploring themes of colonialism, class distinction, and the impact of social media. The conversation highlights how clothing serves as a reflection of personal identity while negotiating historical influences. They also touch on the ethical implications of fast fashion and its consequences for workers, making a compelling case for transparency in the industry.
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INSIGHT

Rise of the Modern Suit

  • The suit rose as a more modest alternative to the formal frock coat in the 19th century.
  • It became the bourgeois uniform symbolizing propriety and sobriety, linked to religious values on modest dress.
ANECDOTE

Keir Hardy's Parliamentary Outfit

  • Keir Hardy, elected to British Parliament, shocked with his working-class tweed suit and deerstalker cap.
  • His dress signaled allegiance to his constituents, challenging norms of proper attire.
INSIGHT

Fashion's Imperial Legacy

  • The history of men's tailoring has imperial ties, including its connections to slavery and colonialism.
  • Black dandies reappropriated the language of fashion from slave owners to express their own identity.
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