Join Christopher Kimball in an interview with Eric Ripert, one of the world's greatest chefs, as they discuss the secrets of cooking great seafood and making sauce. They also explore the future of food and culinary medicine, share tips on using apples, and delve into the art of sauce-making. Plus, they talk about removing the bloodline from fresh fish and uncovering Ukraine's culinary traditions.
Chicken Kyiv originated in the 1920s at the Continental Hotel in Kiev as a dish created for upscale dining and to impress visiting dignitaries, evolving from the concept of breaded and fried chicken cutlets that has been present in the region for centuries.
The ongoing conflict in Ukraine has led to the revival of original Ukrainian flavors and culinary traditions, with chefs like Yevgen Klopotenko using traditional recipes and ingredients to promote Ukrainian culture amidst the destruction and air raids.
Deep dives
The Origin of Chicken Kieb
Chicken Kieb originated in the 1920s at the Continental Hotel in Kiev as a dish created for upscale dining and to impress visiting dignitaries. However, the concept of breaded and fried chicken cutlets has been present in the region for centuries. Russian chefs who trained in France in the mid-1800s added the element of stuffing the chicken cutlets with butter, which evolved into the modern version of Chicken Kieb. The traditional Chicken Kieb uses minced chicken cutlets and is seasoned with dill seed, garlic, black pepper, and other spices. It is breaded and fried to create a crispy exterior and juicy, flavorful interior.
The Evolution of Chicken Kieb
The original Chicken Kieb evolved from the peasant food of minced meat patties that were breaded and fried in the region. Russian chefs in France in the 1840s upgraded the recipe by stuffing the patties with butter and breading and frying them. This technique later inspired the creation of Chicken Kieb in Kiev in the 1920s. However, the dish was not well-executed during the Soviet era, resulting in a less flavorful and often rubbery version. A current approach to Chicken Kieb in Kiev now involves using ground chicken rather than chicken breasts, seasoning the meat and butter mixture well, and baking instead of frying.
Chicken Kieb in a War Zone
During JM Hirsch's visit to Kiev, he witnessed the impact of the ongoing war in Ukraine. The people of Kiev continue to go about their lives amidst the conflict, but the war has taken its toll. Buildings have been destroyed, and daily air raids have become a reality. However, food remains an important aspect of culture and community. Ukrainian chefs, such as Yevgen Klopotenko, have been using traditional Ukrainian flavors and recipes to rally the people and promote Ukrainian culture. Restaurants are full as people support the use of authentic Ukrainian recipes and ingredients.
Reimagining Chicken Kieb
Chef Yevgen Klopotenko's version of Chicken Kieb focuses on using ground chicken, which is seasoned with dill seed, garlic, black pepper, and other spices. The chicken is wrapped around a specially seasoned butter mixture, breaded, and baked to create a flavorful and tender result. This method is more home cook-friendly, and it allows for a more consistent and delicious outcome compared to the traditional approach. The revival of original Ukrainian flavors and culinary traditions is essential for preserving and promoting Ukrainian identity amidst ongoing conflict.
This week, we get a seafood masterclass from one of the world’s greatest chefs, Eric Ripert. He also explains why sauce is the hardest technique to master and reflects on the moment he decided to change the way he ran Le Bernardin. Plus, Milk Street’s science editor, Guy Crosby, joins us to answer our most pressing food science questions, and we uncover the true origins of Chicken Kyiv.
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