Legendary concert promoter Bill Graham once said of the Grateful Dead “They’re not the best at what they do they’re the only ones that do what they do.” Tony Coturri, a pioneering figure in natural winemaking, joins the hosts to discuss the history of Coturri family, the current state of Natural Wine, and the evolution of winemaking. They also delve into the history of grape growing in Sonoma County, the decline of the wine business in Sonoma Valley, and reminisce about family and Catholic beliefs. A deep dive into Sonoma history and Sam's family story.
Sonoma Valley transitioned from a dormant wine region in the 70s and 80s to a vibrant and successful wine destination.
The origins of organic farming and natural wine production are explored, with a focus on the challenges faced when removing chemicals and yeast from the winemaking process.
The importance of listening to the grapes and understanding their needs in terms of maturity and local latitudes is emphasized, criticizing the trend of chasing vintages without considering the grapes' communication with the natural environment.
The challenges of climate change, such as wildfires and unpredictable weather patterns, are discussed, highlighting the necessity of adjusting winemaking practices and supporting sustainability to mitigate environmental impacts.
Deep dives
The Beginning of Winemaking
In the late 60s and early 70s, there was a lack of interest in winemaking in Sonoma Valley. Many vineyards were cut up for housing sites, and there was no younger generation taking over the vineyards. The industry was stagnant, and there were only a few established wineries in the region. Additionally, interest rates were high in the late 70s and early 80s, further hindering the growth of the wine industry. It wasn't until the 90s that interest in Sonoma Valley wines started to increase.
The Evolution of Winemaking
Initially, winemaking in Sonoma Valley was small-scale and focused on making wine for personal consumption or selling locally. There was no direct-to-consumer market, and shipping wine out of state was not yet possible. However, in the late 70s, the Catorie family started making wine commercially under the W. Bats label. The name was inspired by the abundance of bats on the property and the fact that winemaking often took place at night. They produced around 14 to 15 barrels of wine each year, primarily from purchased grapes. In 1979, they were bonded as a winery, which marked a significant milestone in their winemaking journey.
Challenges and Changes
During the 80s and early 90s, the wine industry faced challenges such as interest rate increases and changing consumer preferences. However, interest in the industry started to pick up in the 90s, and by the 2000s, it was thriving. Organic grapes and alternative winemaking practices became more popular, and there was an increased focus on producing high-quality wines. The industry in Sonoma Valley shifted from predominantly conventional winemaking to a more diverse and innovative approach.
The Revival of Sonoma Valley Wine
Sonoma Valley transitioned from a dormant wine region in the 70s and 80s to a vibrant and successful wine destination. With increased interest and investment, wineries and vineyards started to flourish. Organics, creative winemaking, and direct-to-consumer sales became an integral part of the industry. The transformation of Sonoma Valley sparked a renaissance and reestablished the region as a powerhouse in the world of wine.
The Origin of Organic Farming and Natural Wine Production
The podcast explores the origins of organic farming and natural wine production. The speaker discusses how carpenters in the 1960s and 70s, who depended on the range to stop construction, became inspectors for the new organic certification. The focus was mainly on vegetables and fruit, outside of grapes. The speaker shares personal experiences of being a winemaker and the initial resistance faced when removing chemicals and yeast from the winemaking process. The shift towards natural wines and the challenges faced in the industry are also discussed.
The Importance of Listening to the Grapes
The podcast emphasizes the importance of listening to the grapes and understanding the communication between the vines and the natural environment. It is highlighted that working with local latitudes and letting the grapes reach a certain level of maturity is crucial. The speaker criticizes the current trend of chasing vintages and harvests without truly understanding the grapes' needs. The role of community support and local collaborations in the winemaking process is also mentioned.
Challenges and Consequences of Climate Extremes
The podcast delves into the challenges faced by winemakers due to climate extremes, such as wildfires, heat waves, and unpredictable weather patterns. The speaker talks about the impact of climate change on grape ripening and the necessity of adjusting winemaking practices accordingly. The importance of sustainability, forest management, and supporting local communities is stressed to mitigate the effects of climate change. The podcast concludes with a discussion about the need for wine enthusiasts to make informed choices that consider the environmental impacts of their consumption.
Legendary concert promoter Bill Graham once said of the Grateful Dead “They’re not the best at what they do they’re the only ones that do what they do.” For decades, Tony Coturri was to natural wine what the Grateful Dead were to Jam Bands, as in, there wasn’t a name for what they were doing yet because they were the only ones doing it. In this episode, Sam and Bart, joined by guest host James Joiner, visit Uncle Tony’s house, aka Coturri Winery. You could say this is where it all began for the Coturri family but as you’ll learn in this episode, the Coturri’s history in wine goes all the way back to Tuscany, with stops at the Italian Swiss Colony in northern Sonoma County, a cooperage in pre-WWI San Francisco and a basement in the Marina District. This is a deep dive into Sonoma history and Sam’s family story as well as a frank assessment of the current state of Natural Wine. One for the archives! [EP294]
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