Ji Hye Kim, chef and owner of Miss Kim in Ann Arbor, Michigan, explores the history and evolution of tteokbokki, a popular Korean rice cake. She shares her childhood love for the dish and reveals its surprising history as a delicacy of the royal court. The chapter also discusses the importance of seasonality in Korean food, the need for historical justification when altering traditional dishes, and the connection between complaints about a restaurant's food and nostalgia for mom's cooking.
Tteokbokki, a popular Korean dish, has a rich history that reflects the changes in Korean culture over the years, transitioning from a delicacy of the royal court to a beloved street food.
Jihei Kim's modern interpretations of traditional dishes like Tteokbokki spark an ongoing debate between preserving authenticity in Korean cuisine and embracing innovation, emphasizing the importance of understanding the history and evolution of dishes to appreciate new interpretations.
Deep dives
The Evolution of Dokbokki and Korean Cuisine
Dokbokki has a rich history that reflects the changes in Korean culture over the years. Originally a dish of the royal court made with expensive ingredients, it later transformed into a popular street food. The dish has seen variations using different ingredients and cooking techniques. Today, chefs like Jihei Kim are embracing the evolution of Dokbokki by creating their own unique versions while still honoring the dish's roots. Korean cuisine as a whole has also undergone changes and adaptations, showcasing the importance of preserving tradition while allowing room for innovation.
Nostalgia and Innovation in Korean Cooking
Some Korean Americans of the older generation may find it challenging to accept new interpretations of traditional dishes like Dokbokki. However, Jihei Kim has faced surprising feedback from customers, with even parents of law school graduates enjoying her modern take on the dish. This highlights the ongoing debate between preserving authenticity and embracing innovation in Korean cuisine. Jihei emphasizes the importance of understanding the history and evolution of dishes like Dokbokki to defend and appreciate the new interpretations that come with changing times.
The Liberating Nature of Cuisine Evolution
Learning about the ever-evolving nature of Dokbokki and Korean cuisine as a whole is liberating for chefs and food enthusiasts alike. It allows for creativity, experimentation, and personal expression while still respecting the roots and traditions of the cuisine. Jihei Kim's varied menu options for Dokbokki, from street-style to royal-style to unconventional versions like kachio e pepe, demonstrate the freedom and excitement that comes with embracing change and adapting traditional dishes to suit different palates and preferences.
Honoring Tradition and Embracing Change
Jihei Kim's research and exploration of Dokbokki's history reflect a larger responsibility in culinary traditions. She believes in incorporating the story of a dish's evolution into its preparation, highlighting the importance of understanding the people who have cooked and enjoyed the dish over time. This process allows for a deeper appreciation and respect for cultural heritage while also lending space to innovation and adaptation. The ability to honor tradition and embrace change simultaneously is a testament to the richness and diversity of Korean cuisine.
Today on Deep Dish, Sohla and Ham explore the history of Korea through the story of a rice cake. Tteokbokki (Korean rice cakes) are as popular in Korea as hot dogs are in the U.S. Ji Hye Kim, the chef and owner of Miss Kim in Ann Arbor, Michigan, fell in love with tteokbokki as a kid in South Korea. When she moved to Michigan, her attempt to recreate a taste of home led her to tteokbokki’s surprising history as a delicacy of the royal court. Hear how Ji Hye reclaimed this beloved dish, and make sure you listen all the way to the end of the episode to hear Sohla cook up tteokbokki with a twist. You can find that recipe on Sohla’s Instagram.
Deep Dish is a production of The Sporkful. The team includes Sohla El-Waylly, Ham El-Waylly, Andres O’Hara, Dan Pashman, Emma Morgenstern, Nora Ritchie, and Jared O'Connell, with additional editing by Kameel Stanley and Josh Richmond. Original theme music by Casey Holford.