The Big Duck, and East End Duck Farms with Dr. Susan Van Scoy
Aug 26, 2024
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Dr. Susan Van Scoy, a professor at St. Joseph's University and author on the duck farming industry, shares fascinating insights into the history of duck farming on Long Island. At its peak in the 1950s, 75% of the nation's restaurant ducks came from this region. She discusses the challenges faced by local farmers, including suburbanization and government regulations, which led to the decline of the industry. The iconic Big Duck also features prominently as a symbol of this rich, yet often overlooked, heritage.
The rise of duck farming in Eastern Long Island during the 1950s significantly influenced both local agriculture and fine dining culture nationwide.
The decline of the duck farming industry in Long Island reflects the broader transformation of rural areas into suburban communities due to environmental regulations and rising land values.
Deep dives
The Rise of Duck Farming in Long Island
Duck farming in Eastern Long Island began in the late 19th century, gradually becoming a significant industry by the mid-20th century. By the 1950s, approximately two-thirds of all ducks consumed in the United States were produced in Suffolk County, particularly in Eastport, known as the capital of duck farming. The area had around 90 farms at its peak, and it was crucial for local agriculture, drawing comparisons to the potato industry. This boom in duck farming was closely tied to the emergence of fine dining, with celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor enjoying dishes like Peking duck, showcasing its cultural significance.
The Iconic Big Duck
The Big Duck is a prominent symbol of the duck farming industry, originally constructed in 1931 by farmer Martin Moore as a retail venue. This roadside architecture captured the spirit of the time and was inspired by novelty buildings he encountered during his honeymoon. It reflects postmodern architecture and serves as an important landmark, even securing a place on the National Register of Historic Places. The history of the Big Duck parallels the rise and fall of the duck farming industry in Long Island, becoming an emblem of both cultural nostalgia and agricultural heritage.
Decline Due to Environmental Issues and Urban Development
The decline of duck farming began in the 1970s as environmental concerns emerged alongside suburban expansion in Long Island. Regulations aimed at controlling pollution from duck waste negatively impacted farmers, leading to their eventual exit from the market. Many farmers sold their land when it became more valuable for development, while others moved their operations out of state, continuing the industry elsewhere. The shift illustrates broader changes on Long Island, transforming once rural landscapes into suburban communities, as aspiring property owners increasingly preferred to live away from agricultural production.
Esperanza and Irwin welcome Dr. Susan Van Scoy, Professor at St Joseph's University and author of The Big Duck and eastern Long Island's Duck Farming Industry. Susan describes the rich history and sheer dominance during duck farming's heyday in the 1950's. 75% of all ducks served in restaurants across the country came from Long Island. But as suburbanization pushed eastward, rising land values, along with stricter government regulations made farming ducks untenable. A fascinating look at on often overlooked part of the East End's history.
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