531: Korean Food Explodes Outside Koreatown with Kisa’s David Joonwoo Yun
Jan 22, 2025
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David Joonwoo Yun, a partner in NYC's Kisa and C as in Charlie, discusses his journey in redefining Korean cuisine, blending tradition with modern influences. He shares how banchan enhances the dining experience and the potential for Korean food beyond Koreatown. Mehr Singh, a journalist focused on food, dives into the budding world of Gen Z cheesemakers in India, celebrating innovative trends and community spirit. Together, they explore the dynamic intersection of cultural heritage and contemporary culinary practices.
David Joonwoo Yun attributes his culinary creativity to childhood experiences that blend traditional Korean cooking with American ingredients, showcasing adaptability.
Yoon emphasizes the transformation of Korean cuisine in New York from traditional dishes to innovative interpretations that attract a diverse audience.
Through the opening of Kisa, Yoon seeks to enhance appreciation for authentic Korean dining while educating patrons about culinary depth and seasonal flavors.
Deep dives
Transforming Childhood Memories into Signature Dishes
David Junwoo Yoon recalls a pivotal moment from his childhood that influenced his culinary journey, particularly a dish his mother created that combined traditional Korean and American elements. When she could not find the specific wheat noodles for seollangtang, she improvised with spaghetti, which led to a new dish called oxbone pasta. This adaptability not only showcases his mother’s resourcefulness but also highlights how personal memories can become part of a restaurant’s identity. Such novel interpretations reflect a broader trend of creativity in modern Korean cuisine.
Culinary Roots and Influences
Growing up in a household primarily focused on Korean cuisine, Yoon’s culinary journey has been deeply influenced by his family's home cooking. His family's transition to America presented challenges, such as sourcing authentic ingredients in an unfamiliar environment, prompting culinary innovations like using bacon as a substitute for samgyeopsal. These childhood experiences and the blending of Korean flavors with available American ingredients helped shape the dishes he creates at his restaurants today. This fusion of cultural backgrounds and personal experiences informs a unique culinary perspective in the modern Korean dining scene.
Career Evolution in the Restaurant Industry
Yoon's initial foray into the New York City restaurant scene began at Crystal Belly, an upscale Korean barbecue restaurant that drastically shaped his understanding of the culinary industry. As he climbed the ranks from food runner to general manager, he recognized that working in restaurants was more than just service; it encompassed various cultural aspects and hospitality. Despite the initial reservations from his family regarding his career choice, his experiences revealed the restaurant industry as a vibrant and multifaceted environment. These early insights were instrumental in honing his skills and shaping his vision for his future endeavors.
Redefining Korean Cuisine in New York City
Yoon reflects on the changing landscape of Korean cuisine in New York, noting the shift from traditional dishes in Koreatown to innovative restaurants appealing to a broader market. The evolution of restaurants like his own, Sia’s and Charlie, represents a departure from the typical barbecues associated with Korean food, leaning into modern interpretations and diverse flavors. Collaborations with childhood friends also emphasize the importance of shared experiences in shaping their culinary identity. Yoon’s ambition is to introduce diners to a redefined Korean culinary experience, one that honors tradition while also embracing contemporary techniques and flavors.
Creating Authentic, Seasonal Dining Experiences
The opening of Kisa marks a significant step towards presenting a fully authentic Korean dining experience, differing from his previously lighter fusion restaurant concepts. Focused on traditional banchan and seasonal dishes, Kisa aims to elevate the appreciation for Korean cuisine in a city that has seen a surge in interest. Through rotating menus that reflect the seasons, Yoon’s approach emphasizes both quality ingredients and cultural relevance. His mission is to educate patrons about the depth of Korean flavors while fostering a connection to the culinary roots that shape their dining experience.
David Joonwoo Yun has a great story to tell. As one of the partners of New York City Korean restaurants C as in Charlie and Kisa, he’s been at the center of Korean cooking in NYC for a minute. But how did he get here? And how did he and his partners eventually redefine Korean cooking one banchan at a time? We dig into his great story in this terrific episode.
Also on the show we have a great conversation with journalist Mehr Singh, who speaks about her recent TASTE reporting digging into Gen Z cheesemakers. We also talk about her career, and some memorable stories.
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