Lost Debate
Fear, Surfing, and Writing with William Finnegan
May 1, 2025
William Finnegan, a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist and lifelong surfer, shares his unique insights into surfing and storytelling. He reflects on his book, "Barbarian Days," exploring how fear and identity shape the pursuit of mastery. The conversation delves into the tension between traditional and modern surfing, particularly with wave pools symbolizing broader societal changes. Finnegan also addresses the challenges faced by writers today and how new generations can find meaning in their crafts amidst growing commercialization. Passion meets purpose in this engaging discussion!
58:01
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Quick takeaways
- William Finnegan discusses how his lifelong passion for surfing has shaped his identity, fear, and discipline through storytelling.
- The podcast explores the tension between surfing's purity and accessibility, emphasizing the cultural implications of innovations like wave pools.
Deep dives
The Journey of a Prize-Winning Journalist
William Finnegan's career as a journalist has spanned decades, with a substantial body of work featured in The New Yorker. He began his journey in the 1980s as a freelancer, tackling subjects such as political unrest in Nicaragua and apartheid in South Africa. This early experience laid the groundwork for his successful trajectory, which included winning prestigious awards such as the John Bartlow Martin Award for public interest journalism. His Pulitzer Prize-winning book, 'Barbarian Days', captures not only his evolution as a surfer but also the essence of his storytelling abilities, blending personal narrative with broader societal themes.
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