Lost Debate Fear, Surfing, and Writing with William Finnegan
May 1, 2025
William Finnegan, a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist and lifelong surfer, shares his unique insights into surfing and storytelling. He reflects on his book, "Barbarian Days," exploring how fear and identity shape the pursuit of mastery. The conversation delves into the tension between traditional and modern surfing, particularly with wave pools symbolizing broader societal changes. Finnegan also addresses the challenges faced by writers today and how new generations can find meaning in their crafts amidst growing commercialization. Passion meets purpose in this engaging discussion!
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Surfing as Storytelling
- William Finnegan sees surfing as a form of storytelling about friendships and life progressions around the sport.
- His book appeals to both surfers and non-surfers because it carefully explains surfing without jargon overload.
Learn Surfing by Body Surfing
- To learn surfing well, spend extensive time body surfing to understand wave behavior.
- Consistent ocean time is crucial to making the transition to catching waves on a board.
Wave Pools vs Ocean Surfing
- Kelly Slater's wave pool innovation marked a pivotal era in surfing, promising controlled perfect waves.
- Despite high costs and initial hype, wave pools have not replaced the ocean's cultural and emotional significance.
