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Fear, Surfing, and Writing with William Finnegan

Lost Debate

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Riding the Edge: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing

This chapter explores the extraordinary talents and mental frameworks of big wave surfers like Kai Lenny, examining the interplay of fear and skill in extreme sports. Through discussions on genetics, upbringing, and the culture of surfing, it highlights how elite athletes manage risk and navigate perilous challenges.

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