William Finnegan

William Finnegan, a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist and lifelong surfer, shares his unique insights into surfing and storytelling. He reflects on his book, "Barbarian Days," exploring how fear and identity shape the pursuit of mastery. The conversation delves into the tension between traditional and modern surfing, particularly with wave pools symbolizing broader societal changes. Finnegan also addresses the challenges faced by writers today and how new generations can find meaning in their crafts amidst growing commercialization. Passion meets purpose in this engaging discussion!