E70: Hazel Findlay - Exploring the mental side of climbing with a leading coach and pro climber
Oct 31, 2023
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Head coach of Strong Mind, Hazel Findlay, explores the mental side of climbing. Topics include climbing objectives and challenges, the journey of a professional climber and coach, the importance of personal connection in coaching, the art vs science of climbing, the role of media in climbing, the thrill of solo climbing, underrated climbing destinations, being true to oneself, the connection between happiness and suffering in climbing, and exploring mental training courses.
Individualized coaching is crucial in climbing psychology to address the unique needs of each climber.
The study of climbing psychology combines scientific knowledge with the personal nature of the discipline.
Finding the right balance of intrinsic and extrinsic motivations is key for each individual climber.
Climbing coaches prioritize both well-being and performance for their clients.
Maintaining a positive mindset and challenging fixed beliefs are essential for climbing progress.
Deep dives
The Importance of Individualized Coaching in Climbing Psychology
In the world of climbing psychology, individualized coaching is crucial for effectively addressing the unique needs and challenges of each climber. While online courses can provide valuable knowledge and guidance, one-on-one coaching allows for a more personalized and tailored approach. The coaching process involves creating a safe and supportive space where climbers can explore their thoughts, feelings, and beliefs surrounding climbing. By asking pertinent questions and fostering self-reflection, coaches help climbers uncover their own answers and insights. It is essential to strike a balance between empowering climbers with knowledge and drawing on the coach's expertise in order to guide clients towards their goals.
Navigating the Complexities of Studying Climbing Psychology
The study of climbing psychology presents unique challenges due to the intangible and subjective nature of human experiences. While psychology as a field is scientific, understanding the complexities of the human mind and consciousness is by no means straightforward. Much of psychology research relies on questionnaires and self-reporting, which can be influenced by biases and limitations of self-awareness. However, despite the inherent challenges, there is a wealth of knowledge and research available in the field that can inform mental training in climbing. It's important to approach climbing psychology with a balanced perspective, appreciating the science while acknowledging the art and personal nature of the discipline.
The Varied Perspectives Around Motivation in Climbing
Motivation plays a significant role in climbing performance, and finding the right balance of intrinsic and extrinsic motivations is key for each individual climber. While intrinsic motivation is generally considered more powerful and conducive to performance, there are personality differences that warrant consideration. A personalized approach to understanding and balancing motivations is necessary. Coaching in climbing psychology often involves empowering climbers with knowledge about different motivations and fostering self-awareness, allowing climbers to explore what works best for them. The goal is to help climbers navigate their own motivation and find the optimal balance that supports their individual growth and performance.
Prioritizing Well-being and Performance in Climbing Psychology
In climbing psychology, coaches aim to prioritize both well-being and performance for their clients. While performance is often a primary focus in climbing, it's important to recognize that optimal performance may not always align with overall well-being and happiness. Coaches work to understand the deeper beliefs and values that drive individuals' priorities. Some climbers may believe that success and recognition are necessary for happiness, while others might prioritize personal growth or other areas of life alongside climbing. Through coaching, climbers can gain self-awareness and explore their priorities to find the balance that best supports their overall well-being and performance.
The importance of mindset in climbing
Maintaining a positive mindset is crucial in climbing, regardless of skill level. Even high-level athletes seek coaching to improve their mental state and perform better. Health and well-being are key factors in optimal performance, as not being well mentally or physically can hinder climbing performance.
The impact of fixed beliefs on climbing
Fixed beliefs about oneself, whether strengths or weaknesses, can be detrimental to climbing progress. Believing that one is just naturally weak or scared on the wall can limit growth and hinder performance. Challenging these fixed beliefs and developing a growth mindset is essential to progress.
The role of goals and motivation in climbing
Setting goals in climbing requires thoughtful consideration and understanding of intrinsic motivations. While extrinsic motivators like grades and recognition can play a part, they should not be the main driving force. Goals should be aligned with personal learning and passion for the climb, and adaptable to changing motivations and circumstances. Walking away from goals that no longer serve one's growth and well-being is completely acceptable.
The Challenges of Portrayal in Climbing Films
Hazel expresses her struggle with how climbing films portray her and how they may not reflect her true self. She discusses how these films can create fixed beliefs and misconceptions about her abilities and fails to tell the story she would have told herself. Hazel emphasizes the importance of recognizing that films may not capture the complete truth and encourages viewers to interpret them with an open mind.
Intrinsic vs Extrinsic Motivation in Climbing
Hazel delves into the concept of intrinsic and extrinsic motivation and how they affect her climbing experience. She highlights the difference in her psychological state when she climbs intrinsically motivated, purely for the joy and challenge, versus climbing for external factors like filming or validation. Hazel emphasizes the importance of understanding one's motivations and finding ways to maximize intrinsic motivators for a more focused and enjoyable climbing experience.
We were excited to have Hazel join us this week, she's the head coach at Strong Mind, the company that is working to redress the balance by exploring the psychological side of our sport. It's pretty easy to talk about the physical side of climbing, hangboard protocols and shoulder conditioning or whatever, but it was a lot of fun to dive into the murkier waters of the mental side with someone who really knows their stuff.
If you think you might benefit from a tune up to your mental game (to be honest we probably all could) then check out Strong Mind's online courses here: https://go.strongmindclimbing.com/webinar
And if you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823
