Evolution of Grades & Psychology of Climbing at the Limit with Steve McClure
Jul 20, 2024
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Listen to Steve McClure, one of the UK's top climbers, discuss the evolution of climbing grades and the psychology of pushing limits. Topics include factors influencing climbing success, changing industry influences, training effects, and future climbing opportunities. Gain insights from a climbing legend on operating at the limit and where climbing training is heading.
Operating at the limit involves pushing boundaries for growth and satisfaction.
Climbing grades evolve with industry innovations and tailored training approaches.
Deep dives
Steve McClure's Climbing Achievements
Steve McClure is recognized as one of the most accomplished rock climbers in the UK, bridging disciplines like bouldering, sport climbing, and big walling. He has achieved notable feats such as his first ascent of Rain Man, a 9B route in Malham, after 127 sessions across 10 seasons. Steve's extensive climbing career includes multiple 9As, 8B plus onsights, and impressive trad climbing achievements at a high level both nationally and internationally.
Operating at the Climbing Limit
Steve discusses the concept of climbing at the limit, emphasizing the thrill of operating on the edge between success and failure. He highlights the importance of pushing oneself within that margin to experience the adrenaline and satisfaction derived from tackling challenging climbs. Steve differentiates between mere enjoyment in climbing and truly testing one's limits, underlining the psychological aspects associated with the pursuit of challenging routes.
Embracing Failure and Growth Mindset
Steve delves into the intricacies of failure and its perception in climbing. He shares insights on how climbers who enjoy operating at their limits often frame failure in a positive light, viewing it as an opportunity to learn and improve. By shifting the focus from success or failure to the process and effort exerted, climbers can embrace a growth mindset that fosters resilience and continued progress in their climbing journey.
Evolution of Climbing Grades and Performance
Steve reflects on the evolution of climbing grades and industry advancements that have propelled climbing standards forward. He attributes significant progress to innovations like the advent of sport climbing and bouldering, which have changed climbing movement styles and pushed the boundaries of what is achievable. Steve also acknowledges the role of training approaches and tools in enhancing climbers' abilities, highlighting the importance of tailored training to match specific climbing objectives.
In this two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve Mcclure , one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss the evolution of climbing grades and the psychology of operating at the limit. Steve's remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and even big walling.
His notable achievements include ‘Mutation’ 9a+/5.15a at Raven Tor which was upgraded from 9a/5.14d making it one of the first of this grade in the world, and the first ascent of ‘Rainman’ 9b/5.15b at Malham Cove, the first of this grade in the UK.
Topics Covered:
Operating at the Limit.
Key Factors: What makes climbers excel or struggle at the limit?
How climbing grades have changed over his career and the industry's influences.
The roles of gear, training, psychology, and tactics in grade evolution.
Elements of training that had the biggest effect on Steve’s performance.
Predictions on where climbing training is headed and emerging opportunities.
As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
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