Magnus Midtbø: How to Improve Indoors, Are Kneepads Aid, and His Insane Training Plan

Feb 5, 2025

Elite climber Magnus Midtbø dives into an array of captivating topics. He discusses the lost Dawn Wall footage and his experiences climbing with PewDiePie. Magnus shares tips on improving gym skills, the importance of rest days, and the evolving role of knee pads in climbing. He also spills secrets from his intense training regimen and debates whether flexibility or finger strength is more crucial. Additionally, he reflects on building a successful YouTube channel and the changing dynamics of the climbing community.

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ANECDOTE

Ondra's Lost Dawn Wall Footage

Adam Ondra filmed the Dawn Wall ascent but lacked proper permissions.
He now cannot show the footage and lost money on filming.

ADVICE

Focus on One Discipline

Focus on one climbing discipline to improve quickly, like PewDiePie with bouldering.
Avoid distractions from other climbing styles to maximize progress in your chosen area.

ADVICE

Injury Prevention for Late Starters

Be cautious of injuries when starting climbing later in life and training intensely.
Diversify climbing activities like sport climbing or top roping to reduce injury risk.

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Elite climber Magnus Midtbø explores:

Adam Ondra’s lost Dawn Wall footage
Climbing with PewDiePie and what we can learn from it
How to improve on comp style dynamic and coordination problems in the gym
Adam Ondra’s secret finger nail tip
Building a successful YT empire, clothing brand, and more
Learnings from training with Alex Megos
Are rest days actually important
How kneepads are totally changing the game
What’s more important, flexibility or finger strength
Magnus’s insane training week

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!