Dr. Tyler Nelson, an expert in finger strength training, debunks myths and discusses effective methodologies for climbers. Topics include the difference between strength and hypertrophy training, balancing off and on the wall finger training, training methodologies, and the benefits of training fingers on an un-level edge.
For experienced climbers, using a fingerboard may not be as effective as they are already coordinated and strong, and heavy loads can strain joints.
Shorter durations of 2-3 seconds are more effective for building finger strength than traditional long hangs.
Incorporating both exercises that target muscle recruitment and those that enhance connective tissue stiffness is crucial for balanced finger strength and injury prevention.
Climbers should prioritize on-wall coordination training over off-the-wall exercises like fingerboarding.
Deep dives
Different Methods of Finger Strength Training
There are various methods to train finger strength in climbing. One approach is to use a fingerboard or hangboard, which is suitable for newer climbers or those who need to build general finger strength. However, for experienced climbers with a strong climbing history, continuing to use a fingerboard may not be as beneficial as they are already coordinated and strong. Fingerboarding with heavy loads can put excessive strain on the joints. Another method is to use different forms of overcoming isometrics, such as pulling down on a scale or lifting something off the ground. This engages the whole body and allows for maximum recruitment of muscle fibers. Isolated finger training, where only the finger flexors are targeted, can also be effective. It is important to use the appropriate loads and maintain proper technique for each method.
Time and Load Considerations
When it comes to finger strength training, timing and load play a crucial role. Traditional protocols that involve long hangs, such as the 10-second max hang, may not be optimal for building strength. Instead, shorter durations of 2-3 seconds are more effective at recruiting fast-twitch muscle fibers and increasing tendon stiffness. It is recommended to focus on high-intensity efforts with proper form, rather than prolonged hangs. Overcoming isometrics, where one tries to close the hand against resistance, can be a valuable way to isolate finger flexor strength. By understanding the adaptations of different training protocols, climbers can design their training programs more effectively.
Importance of Connective Tissue Stiffness
Building tendon stiffness is a crucial aspect of finger strength training. Connective tissue stiffness enhances force transfer and helps protect the pulleys and tendons. Heavy loads with intentional speed, such as lifting or pulling with maximum effort, are effective at increasing tendon stiffness. Methods like yielding isometrics, which involve slow and controlled hangs, focus more on recruitment and hypertrophy of muscle fibers. By incorporating both exercises that target muscle recruitment and those that enhance connective tissue stiffness, climbers can develop balanced finger strength and reduce the risk of injuries.
Applying Different Training Methods
When training finger strength, it is important to incorporate a combination of methods that target both muscle recruitment and connective tissue stiffness. Overcoming isometrics can be performed by curling the fingers against resistance, while yielding isometrics involve slow and controlled hangs. Both methods can be effective for building finger strength, but it is crucial to use proper form and appropriate loads. Additionally, climbers should prioritize on-wall coordination training rather than solely relying on off-the-wall strength exercises like fingerboarding. By understanding the specific adaptations and focusing on quality training, climbers can improve their finger strength and performance while reducing the risk of joint injuries.
Optimal Finger Training Techniques
Dr. Tyler Nelson discusses the importance of using optimal techniques for finger training. He emphasizes the need to focus on muscle stress and recruitment rather than overloading the joints of the fingers. By using a variety of tools and edge sizes, such as unlevel edges and smaller edges, climbers can effectively target and train different muscle groups. Dr. Nelson also highlights the importance of adjusting the intensity and load based on fatigue levels and individual capabilities.
Building Finger Strength and Endurance
Dr. Tyler Nelson provides insights into building finger strength and endurance. He suggests incorporating specific training protocols, such as overcoming isometrics and short duration hangs on a tindec, to effectively stress the muscles and improve recruitment. Adjusting the load and intensity based on personal performance and fatigue levels is crucial for maximizing gains and reducing injury risk. Dr. Nelson also emphasizes the importance of regular testing, tracking progress, and adapting training routines for consistent improvement.
Training Considerations and Common Misconceptions
Dr. Tyler Nelson addresses training considerations and common misconceptions related to finger strength training. He discusses the potential risks of certain protocols, such as 'no hangs,' and highlights the importance of focusing on muscle stress rather than simply increasing load. Dr. Nelson emphasizes the need for climbers to be more critical about their training choices and to prioritize safer and more effective techniques, such as using unlevel edges and adjusting loads based on individual capacity and fatigue levels.
Dr. Tyler Nelson dives deep into all things finger strength training
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Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Get ready to get strong!
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Topics:
The difference between strength training protocols and hypertrophy protocols, and why many climbers are getting it wrong
How to balance off the wall finger strength training with on the wall climbing
Exploring the various methodologies of finger strength training
Why using a fingerboard doesn’t make sense for training strength in experienced climbers
Why most climbers are doing too many hang board reps that are too long for building strength
Proper set/rep schemes for building strength
Whether a no hang protocol like Emil’s viral routine is actually beneficial
Minimal edge training vs just climbing
The significant benefit of training fingers on an un-level edge
How to switch things up to build muscular endurance
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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