Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Strength

Sep 7, 2023

Dr. Tyler Nelson, an expert in finger strength training, debunks myths and discusses effective methodologies for climbers. Topics include the difference between strength and hypertrophy training, balancing off and on the wall finger training, training methodologies, and the benefits of training fingers on an un-level edge.

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Introduction

00:00 • 5min

Understanding the Confusion: Simplifying Finger Training in Climbing

05:28 • 2min

Understanding Finger Strength Training in Rock Climbing

07:42 • 11min

Finger Strength Training and Injury Prevention

18:21 • 14min

Measuring Finger Strength

32:50 • 8min

Finger Training, Tendon Loading, and the Effectiveness of Certain Training Methods

40:50 • 3min

Training Methods and Considerations for Finger Strength in Climbing

43:58 • 13min

Strength Training Exercises and Programming for Climbers

56:33 • 17min

Properly Regulating Intensity in Climbing Training

01:13:15 • 8min

Training Misconceptions and Climbers' Health

01:21:21 • 6min

Dr. Tyler Nelson dives deep into all things finger strength training

Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Get ready to get strong!

Topics:

The difference between strength training protocols and hypertrophy protocols, and why many climbers are getting it wrong
How to balance off the wall finger strength training with on the wall climbing
Exploring the various methodologies of finger strength training
Why using a fingerboard doesn’t make sense for training strength in experienced climbers
Why most climbers are doing too many hang board reps that are too long for building strength
Proper set/rep schemes for building strength
Whether a no hang protocol like Emil’s viral routine is actually beneficial
Minimal edge training vs just climbing
The significant benefit of training fingers on an un-level edge
How to switch things up to build muscular endurance

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