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The Struggle Climbing Show

Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Strength

Sep 7, 2023
Dr. Tyler Nelson, an expert in finger strength training, debunks myths and discusses effective methodologies for climbers. Topics include the difference between strength and hypertrophy training, balancing off and on the wall finger training, training methodologies, and the benefits of training fingers on an un-level edge.
01:27:42

Episode guests

Podcast summary created with Snipd AI

Quick takeaways

  • For experienced climbers, using a fingerboard may not be as effective as they are already coordinated and strong, and heavy loads can strain joints.
  • Shorter durations of 2-3 seconds are more effective for building finger strength than traditional long hangs.

Deep dives

Different Methods of Finger Strength Training

There are various methods to train finger strength in climbing. One approach is to use a fingerboard or hangboard, which is suitable for newer climbers or those who need to build general finger strength. However, for experienced climbers with a strong climbing history, continuing to use a fingerboard may not be as beneficial as they are already coordinated and strong. Fingerboarding with heavy loads can put excessive strain on the joints. Another method is to use different forms of overcoming isometrics, such as pulling down on a scale or lifting something off the ground. This engages the whole body and allows for maximum recruitment of muscle fibers. Isolated finger training, where only the finger flexors are targeted, can also be effective. It is important to use the appropriate loads and maintain proper technique for each method.

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