Ploughman's for the people: a culinary history of Britain
Feb 5, 2024
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Pen Vogler, author of 'Stuffed: A History of Good Food and Hard Times in Britain', takes listeners on a culinary journey through Britain's history, exploring the marketing origins of the Ploughman's lunch and the belief that turnips were once thought to be an aphrodisiac. She also delves into the impact of enclosures on food and society, the evolution of the roast dinner, and the history of food rationing during World War I and II.
The enclosures in Britain led to a significant change in the food landscape, forcing individuals to rely on others for food and highlighting the need for understanding responsibility in feeding those impacted.
The Ploughman's lunch, contrary to popular belief, was actually a marketing ploy devised in the 1960s and 70s by the cheese marketing boards, serving as a reminder of how certain food traditions are influenced by marketing rather than centuries-old customs.
Deep dives
The Impact of Enclosures on British Food
The enclosures in Britain led to a significant change in the food landscape and people's ability to feed themselves. Land that was formerly available for grazing and domestic economy was enclosed, leaving many without access to essential resources. This sudden shift in domestic economy devastated individuals and forced them to rely on others for food. The loss of common land that affected commoners highlighted the need to understand who would take responsibility for feeding those impacted by the enclosures.
The Marketing Origins of the Plowman's Lunch
Contrary to popular belief, the Plowman's lunch is not an ancient traditional meal. Its creation was actually a marketing ploy devised in the 1960s and 70s by the cheese marketing boards. The goal was to boost the consumption of cheese in pubs by pairing it with pickles, beer, and bread. The history of cheese production and its market fluctuations reveal how the Plowman's lunch came about as a strategy to encourage the consumption of cheese during specific periods. It serves as a reminder of how certain food traditions are influenced by marketing rather than centuries-old customs.
The Evolution of the Roast Dinner and its Social Significance
The roast dinner, a traditional British meal enjoyed on Sundays, has a long history rooted in the nation's love for roast meat. As living standards improved and beef became more accessible through imports, the roast dinner became a common meal for everyone. However, its evolution also reflected societal divisions and economic challenges. The creation of Yorkshire pudding, a filler for children during meat-centric dinners, illustrates how different social classes adapted the meal to fit their needs. The roast dinner stands as a symbol of British cuisine, showcasing both its cultural significance and the impact of economic changes on food traditions.
Did you know that the seemingly bucolic Ploughman's lunch actually came about because of a marketing ploy? Or that turnips were once thought to be an aphrodisiac? Pen Vogler takes Lauren Good on a culinary journey through Britain's history, exploring moments when food was at the centre of social change and upheaval.
(Ad) Pen Vogler is the author of Stuffed: A History of Good Food and Hard Times in Britain (Atlantic Books, 2023). Buy it now from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stuffed-History-Good-Times-Britain/dp/1838955747/?tag=bbchistory045-21&ascsubtag=historyextra-social-histboty
The HistoryExtra podcast is produced by the team behind BBC History Magazine.