This podcast features elite climber Dave MacLeod, known for his challenging ascents on poorly protected gritstone. They discuss struggles, breakthroughs, training, nutrition, and tactics. Topics covered include the significance of struggle in rock climbing, the journey of understanding nutrition, body composition for climbers, individual variations in diets, and challenging assumptions in training.
Maintaining a balance between muscle and fat is crucial for climbing performance.
Eliminating junk food from the diet is key to optimizing nutrition and climbing performance.
Adapting dietary strategies to meet the specific demands of climbing training is essential.
Deep dives
Struggle with Weight Management
Dave McCloud has always struggled with maintaining a lean physique and optimizing his strength-to-weight ratio. Although he responds moderately well to strength training, his main struggle has been with managing his weight. He acknowledges the challenge of resisting junk food and highlights the importance of reducing or eliminating it from his diet.
Body Composition and Climbing Performance
McCloud emphasizes that body composition, including muscle and fat mass, is crucial for climbing performance. He notes that climbers should aim for an optimal body fat percentage, neither too low nor too high. Maintaining a balance between muscle and fat is essential, and having excessive muscle mass can be detrimental for climbing performance. On the other hand, excessive weight and body fat can also impede performance. McCloud recommends regularly checking body composition through methods like DEXA scans to ensure it remains within a healthy range.
Nutrition Strategies
McCloud highlights the importance of reducing or eliminating junk food from the diet. Although moderation might work for some individuals, he personally found that eliminating junk food entirely was more effective. Having a low-carb, high-fat diet or a high-carb, low-fat diet can both be successful depending on individual preferences and response. McCloud mentions that increasing protein intake and staying mindful of nutrient-dense foods are key strategies for optimizing nutrition. He concludes that finding a sustainable approach that works for each individual is crucial.
Low-Carb Diet and Performance
Addressing a question about his perpetually low level of carbohydrate intake despite his excellent performance, McCloud explains that he has experimented with various diets, including very low-carb and high-carb diets. He has found that a low-carb diet does not negatively impact his climbing performance. He mentions that the body can produce carbohydrates from other sources and also efficiently recycle lactate back into glucose. Additionally, he highlights that the unique nature of climbing, involving smaller muscles in the forearms, differentiates it from other sports where high carbohydrate intake may be more critical.
Characteristics of Training and Dietary Needs
The podcast discusses the relationship between the characteristics of training and dietary needs. Different types of climbing, such as bouldering and sport climbing, require varying levels of energy and macronutrient consumption. For example, intense bouldering and sport climbing may not require as much carbohydrate intake as endurance-focused activities. Additionally, the podcast highlights the importance of considering an individual's background diet, as a low-carb diet may lead to greater fat-burning capacity. Overall, the podcast emphasizes the necessity of adapting dietary strategies to meet the specific demands of climbing training.
Considerations for Vegetarian and Carnivorous Diets
The podcast explores the differences between vegetarian and carnivorous diets in the climbing community. While both diets can bring various health benefits, the podcast highlights the significance of nutrient density and food quality. A vegetarian diet that includes eggs, fatty fish, or dairy can provide adequate nutrients for climbers. On the other hand, a carnivorous diet consisting of meat, eggs, and high-fat dairy can also offer benefits in terms of fat oxidation and sustained energy levels. The podcast acknowledges the importance of choosing a diet that works well for individual needs and goals, while also highlighting the potential challenges of maintaining a sustainable vegan diet. Overall, the discussion encourages climbers to prioritize nutrient-dense whole foods, whether adhering to a vegetarian, carnivorous, or balanced diet.
Elite climber Dave MacLeod shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game
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Hailing from the highlands of Scotland, Dave has methodically worked his way up to the highest levels of the sport, and sits at the very top when it comes to heady trad ascents on the notoriously poorly protected gritstone in his backyard. He has bouldered up to V15 (8C), climbed 5.14d (9a), free soloed up to 14a (8b+), and put up E11 trad. His First Ascents are too many to name, but most notably he put up the world’s first E11 trad route, Rhapsody, as well as Echo Wall which might even be harder. From boulders to big walls, rock to ice to mixed… Dave has a truly unique ability to zero in on very hard moves, with very scary exposure, and systematically break it down to a manageable process until the thing can be done. Beyond his performance on rock, Dave has been contributing to the sport for decades now, as a researcher, author, blogger, and YouTuber. He holds an undergrad degree in sports science and physiology, and dual masters, in exercise science and human nutrition. He knows his stuff and we dive deeeeep in this two-parter!
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE:
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
Frictitious Climbing: Check out their revolutionary doorway mount for hangboards (no drilling!) along with their amazing boards for training your fingers at home or on the road. Score 20% off a board when you purchase a doorway mount.
SCARPA: Whether you’re a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. with a commitment to sustainability. Shop the whole collection at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
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Want to be a podcast hero and gain access to extended and ad-free episodes, Pro Clinics with the sport's best, and rad swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
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