The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 299: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Capsulitis
Oct 22, 2025
Dr. Jared Vagy, a physical therapist and founder of The Climbing Doctor, dives into the world of capsulitis, a prevalent finger injury among climbers. He explains how it occurs, the symptoms to look for, and how to avoid it. Vagy shares effective treatment strategies, including unloading techniques and mobility tools to help maintain a pain-free range of motion. He emphasizes the importance of strength training and proper rehab protocols. Vagy also discusses how finger anatomy and training methods impact injury risk, offering valuable insights for climbers of all levels.
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Jared's Research And Community Work
- Jared has written 'Climb Injury Free' and researches practical rehab protocols for climbers.
- He created open-access protocols and a rock rehab community to help climbers and clinicians worldwide.
What Capsulitis Is And How It Starts
- Capsulitis is inflammation of the finger PIP joint caused mainly by repeated crimping or trauma.
- It often starts as a mild ache, slowly stiffens, and can allow climbing despite pain until it worsens.
Simple Clinical Tests To Diagnose
- Test for capsulitis by bending the affected PIP joint and checking for pain or by distracting the joint to see if pain eases.
- Clinical diagnosis suffices; MRI is rarely necessary for routine capsulitis assessment.
