The Dave Chang Show

Food Criticism With Besha Rodell

Jun 2, 2025
Besha Rodell, the food critic for The Age and author of 'Hunger Like a Thirst,' shares her insightful journey from anonymity to industry respect. She delves into the evolution of food criticism and the importance of genuine passion, while examining the intricate relationship between critics and chefs. The conversation highlights the challenges of maintaining authenticity in dining and the necessity for cultural awareness when critiquing diverse cuisines. Besha also discusses the decline of unique voices in food journalism, advocating for a return to honest, passionate storytelling.
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ADVICE

Uphold Ethics Over Freebies

  • Maintain transparency and journalistic ethics in food criticism.
  • Reject paid promotions or freebies that compromise honesty and integrity.
INSIGHT

Paying Critics Advocate for Fairness

  • Critics who pay for their meals feel responsible about value and fairness.
  • This leads to stronger advocacy for readers against overpriced or poor quality dining.
ANECDOTE

Dolly Review's Complex Backstory

  • Besha's harsh review of the Melbourne restaurant Dolly stemmed from it being a cynical exercise.
  • She sought to write a constructive story about cooking challenges but gave up after owners reacted defensively.
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