

Food Criticism With Besha Rodell
Jun 2, 2025
Besha Rodell, the food critic for The Age and author of 'Hunger Like a Thirst,' shares her insightful journey from anonymity to industry respect. She delves into the evolution of food criticism and the importance of genuine passion, while examining the intricate relationship between critics and chefs. The conversation highlights the challenges of maintaining authenticity in dining and the necessity for cultural awareness when critiquing diverse cuisines. Besha also discusses the decline of unique voices in food journalism, advocating for a return to honest, passionate storytelling.
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Critics' Privileged Backgrounds Bias
- Many major food critics come from privileged backgrounds and Ivy League education.
- This creates a bias towards writing for an elite audience, not representing broader food experiences.
Critics Must Care Deeply
- The ideal food critic must have passion and give a shit about food.
- They need curiosity and the ability to understand cultural references to tell meaningful stories.
Ruth Reichl's Food Criticism Impact
- Ruth Reichl broadened American food criticism beyond French dining to diverse cuisines.
- She used anonymity and storytelling to connect readers with emerging culinary cultures.