E121: Xian Goh - How to get better without training!
Oct 30, 2024
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Xian Goh, a climbing coach and author of 'Smooth', shares her unique insights on improving climbing through technique rather than brute strength. She discusses her journey from the climbing walls of Singapore to competitive aspirations in Scotland, emphasizing the importance of movement and stability. Goh highlights five key principles for skill enhancement, showcases the value of analysis in coaching, and challenges conventional training methods. Her approach encourages climbers to find joy in their craft while mastering essential techniques.
Zian Goh emphasizes the importance of climbing technique over raw strength to enhance a climber's performance and enjoyment.
Her coaching philosophy focuses on building trusting relationships with clients to foster personal growth and consistent improvement.
Zian highlights the evolution of the Singapore climbing scene, which has become more accessible and focused on technique and movement.
She encourages young climbers to prioritize enjoyment and instinctive movements, fostering a lifelong passion for the sport.
Deep dives
Zian Go's Climbing Background
Zian Go began her climbing journey in Singapore in 2005, where she initially climbed on a top rope wall at school. Transitioning to serious bouldering, she became heavily involved in competitions and eventually climbed at World Cups. After pursuing her university education in the UK, she focused on outdoor climbing and set a personal goal to boulder 8a, achieving this milestone with a notable ascent in Kironico. This performance experience has shaped her coaching philosophy to prioritize technique over mere physical strength.
The Importance of Technique in Climbing
Zian emphasizes that many climbing resources focus on increasing strength rather than understanding climbing movement and technique. Her book, titled 'Smooth', addresses this gap by providing insights on how to improve one's climbing experience without solely relying on building physical power. Throughout the podcast, Zian articulates her passion for helping climbers develop better techniques, fostering a deeper connection with their movements. This approach encourages climbers to appreciate the nuances of their sport, ultimately enhancing performance and enjoyment.
The Evolution of the Climbing Scene in Singapore
Zian reflects on the early Singapore climbing scene, which revolved around a small community of hardcore climbers, three gyms, and predominantly challenging routes. Over the years, the scene has grown and evolved, becoming more accessible, with an increase in climbing centers and a larger recreational population. The influence of countries like Japan has contributed to a greater emphasis on technique and movement within local climbers. Zian notes that this cultural growth has led to a more agile and aware community of climbers in Singapore.
Coaching Philosophy and Client Relationships
Zian discusses her transition into coaching and highlights the significance of building strong, trusting relationships with her clients. She aims to create a partnership that fosters consistent improvement and personal growth. Her coaching methods focus on identifying each climber's unique movement defaults and designing targeted drills to address individual weaknesses. By emphasizing the importance of technique over raw strength, she helps her clients develop sustainable climbing practices and achieve long-term goals.
Insights from the Coaching Process
During the coaching process, Zian employs a feedback system that enables her to assess a climber's strengths and weaknesses effectively. She encourages climbers to recognize their body's position and make informed adjustments to improve their skills. Zian points out that the coaching experience is as much about helping her clients understand their movement as it is about physical climbing drills. This holistic approach ensures that climbers not only work on technical aspects but also develop an overall understanding of their body's capabilities.
Climbing Competitions and Their Impact
Zian shares her positive experiences with climbing competitions throughout her career and conveys her enjoyment of the social atmosphere they create. She notes that competitions provide climbers with clear feedback on their performance and help establish what areas need improvement. After a recent deep water solo event, Zian felt inspired and reconnected to her competitive spirit, leading her to pursue more competitions in the future. Her enjoyment of competition is rooted in the shared motivation found among climbers of all abilities.
Key Advice for Young Climbers
Zian emphasizes the importance of having fun while climbing, particularly for younger climbers. She encourages young climbers to follow their instincts and focus on movements that feel comfortable and enjoyable, rather than succumbing to external pressures or expectations. This advice aims to foster a love for climbing that is not driven by competition or external validation. By building a solid foundation of enjoyment, young climbers are more likely to develop lasting skills and a lifelong passion for the sport.
It was a pleasure to have Xian on the pod. We used to climb together when I lived in London years ago, she's a great climber and an all-round good egg. She's a climbing coach and she has her own unique way of looking at climbing where she focusses almost completely on technique and how to climb and doesn't focus on the much covered (and much loved) strength side of the sport. Her book 'Smooth' has recently come out and I try to clumsily go over some of the key concepts from it.
Thanks for bearing with us whilst Aidan is sailing in the great blue yonder! If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823
