Finger Training 2.0 with Zachary Laschober of Specialized Masochism
Sep 11, 2024
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Climbing coach Zachary Laschober specializes in finger training to enhance climbing performance. He discusses the nuances of sports-specific finger training, emphasizing personalized protocols for strength and injury prevention. Zachary breaks down finger physiology and compares traditional flat edges to innovative natural designs for optimal results. He also explores isometric techniques and the balance between maximum strength and endurance. Tune in for practical insights and tips on using specialized training implements!
Personalized finger training is essential for climbers due to anatomical differences affecting performance and training efficacy.
Utilizing unlevel or natural edge designs in training tools can enhance muscle activation and minimize joint strain compared to traditional methods.
Incorporating both specialized finger training techniques and regular climbing practice is crucial for effectively transferring strength gains to climbing performance.
Deep dives
The Importance of Finger Strength in Climbing
Finger strength is a crucial aspect for climbers, influencing their performance on various routes. This episode emphasizes that having the ability to hang from a 20-millimeter edge is often perceived as a benchmark for finger strength, but not being able to do so doesn't necessarily indicate weak fingers. The discussion highlights the necessity of individualizing finger training, as anatomical differences, such as finger length and morphology, can significantly affect one's training approach. Ultimately, the episode suggests that understanding one's unique finger structure is essential for effective training and avoiding unnecessary frustration.
Transitioning to Optimized Training Techniques
The conversation highlights the limitations of traditional flat edge training methods commonly seen in the climbing community. While hanging from a flat edge can result in increased finger strength, these methods may not be the most efficient for all climbers due to variances in finger anatomy. The podcast introduces the concept of using unlevel edges to create a more ergonomic grip, allowing for better muscle activation and reduced strain on finger joints. This innovative approach encourages climbers to rethink their finger training methods to promote maximum effectiveness and recovery.
Customized Finger Training Implements
The episode delves into the development of specialized finger training tools designed to meet the unique needs of climbers. Zachary Leshauber, a guest on the show, discusses how his 3D-printed lifting blocks cater to different finger sizes and shapes, enhancing the training experience. By accurately measuring and customizing these implements according to an individual's hand structure, climbers can optimize their finger training sessions and reduce the risk of injury. This tailored approach ensures that the equipment aligns well with the climber's physiology, promoting better strength gains.
Training Methodologies and Recovery
Different training methodologies, such as isometric yielding and overcoming isometrics, are discussed as essential techniques for climbers to enhance finger strength. The podcast explains that yielding exercises allow climbers to resist force under tension, which can lead to increased strength in the finger flexors. In contrast, overcoming isometrics focus on actively attempting to lift weights or resist an immovable object, targeting motor unit recruitment. Understanding these methodologies helps climbers tailor their training volume and frequency based on their recovery abilities, optimizing the training process.
Integrating Training with Climbing Practice
The importance of integrating specialized finger training with actual climbing practice is emphasized throughout the discussion. Climbers are reminded that developing finger strength through off-the-wall training must be complemented with regular climbing to transfer those gains effectively. The conversation highlights the significance of focusing on both strength-building exercises and climbing sessions, as this combination promotes the best results. Furthermore, by maintaining an awareness of one’s recovery needs and adjusting training protocols accordingly, climbers can enhance their overall performance on the rock.
Climbing Coach Zachary Laschober joins to discuss:
Sports-specific versus non-sport-specific finger training
Limitations of the "standard" 20mm flat edge
Hand and finger physiology for optimal performance and recovery
Evolution of training implements featuring an "unlevel" or "natural" design
Isometric yielding (resisting) vs overcoming (curling) training methods
Detailed protocols for developing maximum strength and endurance in fingers
Applying finger strength to rock and plastic
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If you want to grab yourself a training implement from Specialized Masochism, Zachary is hooking up Struggle listeners with 10% off using code STRUGGLE at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/specialized
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.
Petzl SPIRIT: Customize your set of SPIRIT quickdraws with your favorite colors! Excellent weight-to-performance ratio and designed to be easily clipped even when you’re cruxing out. Build your dream set over at Petzl.com
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard.
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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