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Hermes, the renowned luxury brand, traces its beginnings back to the 1830s as a saddle maker. Its iconic handbags, the Birkin and Kelly, have become symbols of luxury and status. The Birkin, named after actress Jane Birkin, is slightly more expensive than the Kelly. These bags have stood the test of time, remaining highly desirable for decades. The exclusivity and craftsmanship of Hermes bags command premium prices, with the Birkin starting at around $8,500. The brand's distribution strategy is focused on its own stores, offering a personalized and ceremonial buying experience. The scarcity and screening process for customers contribute to the brand's allure and exclusivity.
Hermes has achieved remarkable defensibility in the luxury market, despite economic theory suggesting increased competition. The brand's long history, heritage, and commitment to craftsmanship make it nearly impossible to replicate. While other luxury brands may try to imitate Hermes' quality and design, they are unable to match its intangible allure. The company's exceptional operating margins of 40% and high customer loyalty reflect its ability to maintain a premium position in the market. Hermes' emphasis on long-term thinking, stewardship of the business by the family, and careful allocation of resources have helped reinforce its competitive advantage.
Hermes takes a discreet approach to marketing, relying on its reputation and word-of-mouth to generate awareness and uphold its exclusivity. The brand maintains relationships with high-end fashion press and sponsors luxury events with an emphasis on elegance and heritage. Unlike many luxury brands, Hermes does not focus on aggressive advertising campaigns or excessive online presence. Its distribution strategy centers around its own stores, with deliberate placement and limited concessions in select department stores. The buying process entails joining a waiting list, creating a sense of anticipation and rarity. By making it difficult for customers to buy, Hermes strengthens its brand appeal and maintains an image of exclusivity.
Luxury is all about the desire to showcase status and enjoy wealth. It goes beyond flashy displays and bling. It is a combination of wealth accumulation and the aspiration to be part of an exclusive club. Luxury brands like Porsche and Hermes offer beautifully crafted products that provide a sense of enjoyment and belonging. They cater to customers who appreciate the fine craftsmanship and are willing to invest in these nice-to-have items. Despite being non-essential, luxury goods continue to be in demand globally, appealing to both older and younger generations.
Hermes stands out in the luxury industry for its commitment to artisanship and traditional manufacturing processes. Their products are meticulously made in French ateliers by skilled artisans who undergo extensive training. The brand maintains full control over the manufacturing process, avoiding outsourcing and prioritizing the use of high-quality materials, such as the finest leather. The attention to detail and the commitment to excellence contribute to the unparalleled quality of Hermes products. Additionally, the family-owned business has remained true to its heritage and has chosen not to compromise its standards or lower prices to cater to the mass market. This dedication to craftsmanship and brand integrity has solidified Hermes' position as an enduring and highly regarded luxury brand.
Today’s breakdown has been at the top of our to-do list since the show started. There are few brands as strong as this one and the way the Dumas family has nurtured it over six generations is remarkable. We are, of course, talking about one of the ultimate status symbols, Hermès.
What began as a specialty saddles business in the mid 1850s has become famous for iconic handbags and other luxury items. Last year, the business earned $9 billion at 70% gross margins. It does things differently and to explore the details behind its difference, I’m joined by long-time shareholder, Mark Urquhart. Mark is a partner at Baillie Gifford and head of their Long Term Global Growth team, which he co-founded in 2003. Hermès was in the original portfolio when it launched in 2004 and has been held since then. Please enjoy this breakdown of Hermès.
For the full show notes, transcript, and links to the best content to learn more, check out the episode page here.
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Show Notes
[00:02:29] - [First question] - The iconic Birkin and Kelly bags explained
[00:04:41] - New price and resale price for a Hermès bag
[00:06:13] - Production and distribution dynamics of Hermès bags
[00:08:11] - Overview of the company’s scale and structure
[00:09:52] - The basic margin structure and history of Hermès
[00:12:10] - Defensibility of investing in a luxury brand like Hermès
[00:15:48] - Market size and potential for future growth
[00:21:20] - The power of Hermès’ long heritage history
[00:26:37] - His definition of luxury and the role of luxury products in culture
[00:30:49] - The Hermès manufacturing model and their focus on craftsmanship
[00:35:28] - Strategies that Hermès has chosen to avoid
[00:38:51] - The importance of their six-generation family stewardship
[00:42:42] - How the family has maintained the business for so long
[00:45:41] - Overview of retail sales and their distribution model
[00:48:28] - Learnings from Hermès’ marketing strategy
[00:52:08] - How he would set up a brand if he needed it to compete with Hermès
[00:54:28] - Companies that come close to Hermès from an investment perspective
[00:56:20] - The complexity of Hermès’ valuation and growth potential
[01:00:59] - Why Hermès maintains a conservative capital allocation model
[01:03:07] - The importance of their consistently simple products and business model
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