Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Eric J. Hörst
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Jan 2, 2022 • 55min

Episode #70 - A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing...and Beyond!

In this empowering New Year's podcast, Eric details effective strategies for uncommon success in climbing and any other high-value life activity or mission. Learn 3 essential steps for departing onto a road less traveled--a journey defined by intentional daily action that yields rapid progress, while avoiding common "black holes" that can consume time, energy, and focus...and rob you of your future greatness. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 RUNDOWN 0:30 - Introduction -- Happy New Year! Let's make 2022 a great one! 1:00 - Why most people fail with their New Year's Resolutions and goals. 2:40 - My unpublished book manuscript "Mental Wings" -- about how all performance is brain-based...and begins with the quality of your thoughts. 3:50 - My most powerful published book is "Maximum Climbing". Available from Amazon.com and PhysiVantage.com 5:00 - I'm passionate about inspiring you...and helping you become the best climber you can be...and to see you live your dream life! 6:30 - What are the biggest factors...and limiting constraints on your progress in climbing (and other life endeavors)? 7:50 - Your THOUGHTS are EVERYTHING! Who and what controls your thoughts minute by minute?  10:45 - Exercise: List 5 or 10 things you would attempt to do if you were assured you could not fail? 11:25 - Exercise: Create a list of things you fear...bad habits...and other things that are holding you back...tethering you to living in a state of status quo. 12:30 - STEP #1: Change is a MUST! All improvement in climbing (or life) begins with a decision that change and improvement is a MUST! 13:20 - Creating leverage for making the (painful) changes that are essential for leveling your situation. 16:00 - The "Feedforward" Exercise...for identifying a meaningful step to take TODAY to advance you toward your goals. 18:30 - Mental Wings principle: "To outperform the masses you must do things they don't do." 24:10 - The power of becoming a "practical non-conformist". 29:30 - Step #2: Set compelling goals. 31:00 - 6 steps for effective goal setting...and achievement! 34:30 - Introducing PhysiVantage Europe! We are proud to partner with the EPIC-TV shop to bring performance nutrition to European climbers.  36:15 - Step #3: Make Every Day Count 38:00 - Enjoy this moment--every moment!--because this moment is a piece of your life that you'll never get back. 39:20 - Do you ever feel like there's not enough time in the day? 42:35 - What are your time black holes? 45:00 - Exercise: Track your time use (from waking up) for at least 3 days. Be accurate in documenting your "time-wasting" activities? 48:00 - The importance of developing a personal time-management system. You must not just let your day unfold without intention...and a schedule for taking some meaningful action towards your goals. 52:10 - Concluding thoughts...and wishes for your grand success in the New Year! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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8 snips
Dec 10, 2021 • 1h 11min

Episode #69 - 10 Common Training-for-Climbing Mistakes

"The best training program for you is one that you're not currently doing." — Coach Hörst In this revealing podcast, learn 10 common training mistakes that stunt progress in climbing, slow strength and endurance gains, waste time and energy, and potentially contribute to injury. This is a must-listen impactful podcast for anyone wanting to take their training — and climbing! — to the next level. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 RUNDOWN 0:20 - Introduction -- the value of an end-of-season analysis and training program redesign. 3:16 - Mistake #1: Arriving at the gym and training without a plan 6:50 - Mistake #2: Copying someone else’s training program 11:00 - Mistake #3: “Groundhog Day” Training 17:58 - Mistake #4: Doing little or no sub-maximal climbing Listen to the first in a series of 5 podcasts on Energy System Training >> 26:42 - Mistake #5: Not doing any generalized aerobic training 32:45 - Mistake #6: Doing little or no max-strength hangboard training 39:34 - Mistake #7: Not doing any antagonist and stabilizer muscle training 43:43 - Mistake #8: Getting drawn into a serious weight lifting, body building, or cross-fit style program 49:00 - Mistake #9: Ignoring (and training through) developing aches and pains Listen to podcast #39 on the "Perfect Storm" for climbing injuries >> 58:00 - Mistake #10: Overeating...or undereating 1:08:40 - Summary: Eric's closing comments on improving the effectiveness of your training and taking your climbing to the next level. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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Nov 3, 2021 • 1h 14min

Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint

I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I'll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and going for the send on my final climbing day of the trip. I trust you'll find some techniques and tactics to adopt and adapt  to improve your boulder or route projecting. RUNDOWN 0:30 - And now for something completely different -- I hope you love this podcast!   6:18 - Deconstructing a project route: HERCULES (5.13a/7c+) Learn about my 3-session journey of sussing beta, managing fears, and developing a strategy for the send. 13:40 - Session 1: Sussing out the project. 15:40 - Session 2: Getting down to business... 16:20 - Address fears first. Working the first of 4 "chucks"....the unpleasant slab start. 22:52 - Working Chuck #2 - power climbing out a 25-foot overhanging wall and roof. Move by move beta is refined for efficiency and power conservation. 32:20 - Pro Tip: Taking "mental snapshots" of key holds. 34:25 - Dismissing phantom fears... 37:48 - Working chuck #3...the redpoint crux. 41:10 - Dialing in chuck #4...the anchor run. 44:00 - Time for two redpoint goes. So close! (Or, was I?) 50:40 - Message from the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 52:00 - HERCULES on my mind...for days! Visualization and game-changing beta ideas.  57:27 - Session 3 - Mother Nature provides a chance...but could Eric take down Hercules? 1:05:10 - Blow-by-blow commentary of the redpoint go -- a look inside the mind of Coach Horst. 1:12:00 - Closing comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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Oct 1, 2021 • 1h 3min

Episode #67 - The Perfect Warm-up Protocol for Optimal Training & Sending!

One of the most powerful concepts I coach is that simple and seemingly "minor things" can make a MASSIVE difference in your training results and climbing performance. This is why I use the word "nuance" so often in my Training For Climbing podcasts! Warming up before training and climbing is one of those "minor things" that many people do hastily--or dismiss completely. Little do they know that they're sabotaging their ability to train and climb their best. They will likely get "flash pumped" and leak energy, fail to recruit full power, move inefficiently and with undue tension, fail prematurely on near-limit movements, and perhaps even set the stage for experiencing a muscle spasm, tendon tweak, or worse. In this podcast, coach Horst provides rich detail on how to perform the perfect warm-up. Yes, it's a relatively slow process with lots of details and nuance. But taking the time to warm up completely will set you up for an optimally effective workout and just maybe a low-gravity send day! RUNDOWN 0:30 - First thoughts on warming up -- it's not sexy, but doing it right is essential if you're to train/climb your best! 2:38 - Different training/climbing situations demand different approaches to warming up. 3:55 - Doing the perfect warm-up will build confidence, empower you to release full power...and is a contributing factor to "low gravity days". 5:00 - Why what most people do (or call) a "warm-up" isn't enough. 6:30 - How you feel on your boulders and routes is massively influenced by your warm-up...or lack of it. 9:30 - The "perfect" warm-up is personal--experiment to discover what gives you the best results. 11:30 - Hone in on your perfect warm-up protocol--make it repeatable! 12:20 - A repeatable warm-up empowers you to use autoregulation of your day's training or climbing plan. This is a powerful topic covered in podcast #20. Listen here >>  15:15 - SEVEN STEPS TO THE PERFECT WARM-UP 16:52 - Step 1: Spend a few minutes firing up your cardiovascular system. It's a small investment of time/effort, but it's vital for preparing the body for the remainder of the warm-up protocol. 19:12 - Step 2: Engaging in some dynamic stretching activities to lubricate connective tissues and joints. (A bit of static stretching of the legs and hips may be useful to increase range of motion before climbing.) Perform some low-intensity climbing movements provides a good dynamic warm-up of the tendons, ligaments, shoulders, core, hips, and more! 21:54 - Step 3: Activate the climbing-specific muscles (agonists) with a series of progressively more difficult pull-up movements and finger hangs (various grip positions). 26:34 - Step 4: Turn on your power! This step requires you to do some quick movements with the climbing muscles (power pull-ups, a small amount of campusing on large holds, and similar) to increase the rate of force development (for maximal finger contact strength and dynamic climbing power). 32:00 - Step 5: Turn on the anaerobic lactic and climbing-specific aerobic energy systems with a few warm-up routes or bouldering intervals that get you moderately pumped (level 8 out of 10 pump). Don't NOT climb to the point of a severe (flash) pump and muscular failure during your warm-up--this will adversely affect the rest of your session. 36:10 - Step 6: Turn on the antagonist muscle with a set of push-ups (or one set of moderately heavy bench press), a submaximal set of dips, a set of shoulder press, and some rotator cuff (one set of external rotation) and scapular stabilizer warm-ups using a TRX sling training or exercise band.  41:25 - Step 7: Perform a targeted core warm-up. Yes, doing a few sets of core exercises to fully recruit the core before performance climbing can be game-changing! 45:35 - 90-second podcast sponsor message -- Learn how you can climbing better, gain strength and endurance, recover faster, and become more injury resistant with PhysiVantage!  47:00 - Learn how to adjust your warm-up protocol for 3 common climbing and training situations. 47:30 - #1: An easy session at the gym or day of climbing bouldering or climbing. 49:10 - #2: A session of high-end training in the gym, or near-limit bouldering. 53:20 - #3: Route climbing for performance in the gym or at the crag. 1:00:45 - Closing thoughts. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts...and SHARE this podcast with a friend or on social media.! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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Sep 3, 2021 • 50min

Episode #66 - 10 Powerful Tips to Climb Harder Boulders and Routes

This T4C episode serves up numerous powerful tips--that you can put to work immediately--to more effectively work on hard boulders and routes...and send more quickly! Learn about the power of proprioception and "feel beta" (a coach Hörst secret...shush!), why it's vital to keep an open mind in working crux sequences, how you can reduce your chances of "punting", the benefits of engaging in active recovery between send goes, and the importance of trusting the process and letting the outcome fold organically.  RUNDOWN 0:40 - Podcast Intro 3:38 - Eric mentions his livestream Training Cafes--he invites you to join in and ask training questions. Tune in every other Monday at Noon ET on Eric's Training For Climbing YouTube and Training for Climbing Facebook page. 5:45 - Introducing the main topic: 10 Powerful Tips to project more effectively and send more quickly. 6:50 - TIP #1 - Don't view the boulder or route as an overwhelming whole, but instead break it down into more manageable and believable parts. 9:32 - TIP #2 - Don't rush to judgement on the crux sequence--keep an open mind and keep testing other beta options even when you're many days into a project. 15:50 - TIP #3 - In working the hardest moves identify the proprioceptive feel of doing the move effectively--take note of this powerful "feel beta" and leverage it to succeed on your send go. Lean into this one...listen, learn, and employ! 21:16 - TIP #4 - Practice the top portion of the route a lot more than you think is necessary--get it totally wired and automatic, so there's no doubt you can climb it pumped on point. 23:37 - TIP #5 - When you first succeed on the crux sequence, don't rush to redpoint...but instead repeat the crux again to confirm the foot beta and feel beta! 26:50 - Brief commercial break - Save $10 on your first purchase of PhysiVāntage Nutrition. Use checkout code "10DOLLARS". This promotion is valid only during the month of September--don't miss this chance to FEEL the PhysiVāntage at a great discount price! 28:15 - TIP #6 - Cut yourself free of unnecessary fear load! Learn to better manage your climbing fears...heeding legitimate fears and dismissing phantom fears. Listen to podcasts #62 and #65 which provide in-depth instruction on becoming an expert fear manager. 31:09 - TIP #7 - Engage in active recovery between working burns or send goes. A short walk can do wonders for your recovery--learn why...and exactly what you should do. 36:10 - TIP #8 - Build a boulder or route simulator to train for longer-term, distant projects. Build route-specific strength! 39:47 - TIP #9 - Begin each redpoint day with one no-pressure trial run to get a route-specific warm-up and to gain a refresher on the "feel beta". 41:55 - TIP #10 - Trust the process and let the send happen when it's meant to happen! Expect success, but accept that it's okay to feel...because you know the boulder or route will be yours exactly when it's meant to be. 47:40 - Parting comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts...and share this podcast with a friend or on social media.  SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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Aug 12, 2021 • 40min

Episode #65 - Tips & Strategies to Manage Common Climbing Fears - Part 2

To climb your very best -- and to truly enjoy climbing -- you need to become an expert fear manager! Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fears of falling, getting hurt, failure, embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown...can be torturous and paralyzing. To climb efficiently and with confidence, you need to be able to assess and manage fear...which is the subject of this podcast. If you haven't already, do listen to Part 1 on Fear -- Episode #62 -- before commencing with this concluding episode on the topic. Enjoy! Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Welcome to Part 2 in our study of fear. 2:14 - A quick recap of Part 1...podcast #62. Listen here. 3:53 - FEAR #3: FEAR OF FAILURE. Ironically, fear of failure often results in failure! 6:10 - 3 strategies to eliminate the fear of failure. 6:20 - 1.) Acknowledge preparedness and training -- it's like money in the bank! 7:50 - 2.) Focus on the process -- stay in the moment. 9:30 - 3.) Accept all possible outcomes before climbing. Then let go of the outcome-oriented thoughts and live out the climb, one move at a time. 10:00 - It's in climbing for yourself -- win, lose, or hanging from a quickdraw -- that you will climb your best! 11:38 - FEAR #4: Fear of Embarrassment and Criticism 13:10 - Strategy 1.) Use failures to learn and improve. Ignore the critics...and focus on being a DOER! This is one of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers--listen to the Superpowers podcast! 16:27 - Strategy 2.) Take on a bigger perspective -- view your climbing performance over the long-term, not on a daily basis. Ups and downs are normal -- you are NOT your failures! 18:12 - FEAR #5: Fear of the Unknown 21:21 - Strategy 1.) Accept and welcome the unknown--it's a central part of the climbing experience! 23:41 - Strategy 2.) Anticipate and prepare for known, unknowns. 25:52 - Strategy 3.) Take control of self-talk and imagery. 28:00 - Podcast Sponsor - PhysiVantage...the performance nutrition used by dozens of pro climbers for strength gains, recovery, power endurance, and injury resistance. Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 30:17 - Wrap-up with 11 powerful tips to assess and manage common climbing fears. 36:30 - Love climbing unconditionally! 38:00 - Final comments -- PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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Jul 27, 2021 • 1h 19min

Episode #64 - Performance Training Interview with Coach Hörst - Part 2

This is Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's (Nugget podcast) interview of Eric Hörst on a wide range of climbing training and performance topics. In this episode you will learn...how young guns Cameron Hörst (20) and Jonathan Hörst (18) train compared to their coach dad (age 57), tips for parenting/coaching youth climbers, what it takes to climb the next grade (whether it's 5.10 or 5.15), sloper training, the importance of protein, and more. There's a ton of great tips and sage advice in this episode. Lean in and listen up! Podcast Rundown 00:12 - Intro and overview of Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's interview with coach Eric Hörst 2:25 - How Cameron and Jonathan Horst train for elite-level climbing compared to the training of their coach father training for his master's climbing ascents. 4:05 - Advanced hangboard training protocol details. 6:30 - Importance of listening to your body, adjusting training, and route-specific training. 7:30 - Tendon "loading history" and effects of youth climbing on tendon core structure. 8:30 - The pros/cons of youth single-sport and multisport involvement. 16:05 - Tips for parents and coaches of youth climbers. 18:15 - Climbing benchmarks of the Hörst brothers (aka The Send Bros). 20:25 - Current status of the Hörst brothers climbing. Cameron (age 20) just climbed his fourth 5.14d and first 5.15a (after this interview was recorded) and Jonathan (age 18) send his second 5.14c in July. 23:35 - Eric's "old climber" dream goal: A free big wall...or sport 5.14a? 25:20 - How to "win" as a weekend warrior? 30:00 - What it takes to climb the next grade... 31:45 - Nature, nurture, and willpower! 33:55 - How to improve on big holds? 34:30 - Pinch training tips... 37:00 - Sloper training. 38:55 - Importance of training wrist flexion and extension. 41:40 - What's most exciting about training for climbing in 2021? 42:30 - Pros/cons of system wall training. 46:00 - The role of nutrition in training and performance. 48:30 - The importance of dietary protein...to support strength gains, connective tissue remodeling, muscle protein synthesis, and more. 50:10 - Overview of Eric's PhysiVantage product line...and the benefits for recreational and pro climbers alike. (Get a 15% discount off full-price nutrition with checkout code: NUGGET15) 52:45 - All about supplementing with hydrolyzed collagen powder--overview of the fascinating research...and the numerous benefits for hard-training climbers, if you time it correctly. 1:09:30 - The value of high-quality post-workout protein consumption...plant-based or whey isolate...it's a difference-maker 1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhysiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 Podcast Audio and Content Copyright 2021 Hörst Training, LLC - All Rights Reserved.
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Jul 17, 2021 • 1h 17min

Episode #63 - Nugget Q & A with Coach Hörst About All Things Training - Part 1

This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmitt of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more! There's a gold mine of information in this episode....and Part 2 of this interview will serve up even more! Coming soon... Podcast Rundown 00:12 - Intro to this "best of" the Nugget interview with coach Eric Hörst 2:56 - What core elements of training have passed the test of time? 6:23 - Current glut of training information can be overwhelming--what to do? 8:37 - Importance of re-inventing your training each year. 10:07 - Value of engaging an expert coach. 12:25 - What's the most central exercise/activity for climbers? 14:30 - You can improve technical, movement and mental skills for decades! 17:00 - You can improve at climbing for DECADES! 18:25 - You are likely already strong enough to climb the next grade! 19:56 - What should you look for in hiring a coach? 25:50 - New training concept: Sinew Training! Learn the importance of remodeling connective tissues. Visit T4C podcasts #33, #34, #36, and #39 for an in-depth study of this powerful topic. 30:00 - Learn how max finger hangs and campusing training have profoundly different effects on tendons and ligaments. 34:00 - Learn the difference between sinew training for tendon/ligament health versus training for peak power and performance. 35:10 - How to schedule these two types of training for optimal health and results. 36:30 - Learn training cycles and periodization. Linear versus non-linear. 44:40 - Importance of developing a truly personalized approach to training (the "snowflake principle"). 46:00 - Identify your limiting constraint. For some strong climbers it's "end-range" strength. 50:15 - How designing an advance training program is like playing 3D chess. Why the best coaches see the big picture and coach the "person" not just the athlete. 51:00 - Don't fall into the trap of obsessing on one type of training or one modality. 54:25 - Why developing a stronger core is SO VERY important. (Hint: A stronger core equals stronger fingers!) 56:30 - Eric comments about Alex Megos' coaches Patrick & Dicki 59:00 - Learn about deadlifting for climbers...the value...and the potential pitfalls. 1:06:30 - The value of doing more bouldering and traversing with very small footholds. 1:11:10 - Key idea: A weak core overcharges your finger force...resulting in rapid fatigue on near-limit climbs. 1:14:10 - More on DUP training versus a 10-week (or more) training cycle. 1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Tune in to T4C podcast #64 for PART 2 of this Nugget Interview with coach Hörst! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhyiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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Jun 7, 2021 • 1h 15min

Episode #62 - Managing Fear and Climbing Your Best - PART 1

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown affects us all from time to time.  The long-term goal is NOT to eliminate fear, but rather to become an expert fear manager....which is the focus of this (and the next) podcast. Listen in and learn how to assess your fears, manage risk, and take your climbing to the next level with a higher level of mental mastery. Podcast Rundown 0:30 - Introduction to this two-part study of fear. 4:45 - A few comments on recent events... 5:00 - World Cup Bouldering Gold for Team USA! 7:00 - My son Cameron sending his first 5.15a, Bone Tomahawk. 10:10 - My appearance on The Nugget Climbing podcast. 11:50 - Overview of FEAR...and what you'll learn in this podcast and the next. 12:28 - What are some of your recent climbing fears? Can you identify a few that were especially acute...or fears that held you back in some way? 14:55 - FEAR #1: Fear of Falling 19:12 - Technique 1: Determine if the fear is reasonable or unreasonable. 25:30 - Technique 2: Take some practice falls in a safe setting 32:54 - Technique 3: Change your interpretation of the fear response. 38:28 - Technique 4: Use positive self-talk to crowd out negative thoughts...and you breath-control to moderate tension and the stress response. 45:10  - FEAR #2 - Fear of Dying or Getting Hurt 49:40 - Technique 1: Is the fear you're experiencing legit or imaginary? 52:24 - Technique 2: Use risk management to shift the odds in your favor...and perhaps continue up the climb safely. Here are FIVE strategies for doing this:  52:52 - 1.) Proactively manage the most obvious dangers. 55:55 - 2.) Consider various "what if" scenarios...and how you will react in each situation. 57:37 - 3.) Constantly discern between "safe fall" and "no fall" situations. 1:01:15 - 4.) Determine if you can handle the worst-case outcome??? 1:06:55 - 5.) Listen to your gut instinct when the risk is incalculable.  1:13:00 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhyiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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May 6, 2021 • 52min

Episode #61 - Slowing the Pump Clock

Training to get stronger is good. Learning to climb more efficiently so that you can get the most out of the strength and power you currently possess is SMART! So if you want to progress from good to great, then this podcast is for you! Learn 5 powerful strategies for climbing more efficiently, recovering more quickly, and leveling up your climbing. Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Roll up your sleeve to receive the Horst booster of Training For Climbing knowledge! 1:55 - Intro to becoming a more efficient climber with more endurance on steep terrain. 4:00 - Key point: When climbing near your limit, little things can make a BIG difference! Eric's favor word in coaching: "nuance"! 4:47 - Improvement demands change. Welcome it. 5:35 - 5 strategies for slowing down the pump clock, improving endurance, and leveling up! 6:34 - Strategy #1: Strive to climb with more economy. Make it a goal to improve a bit each your. Practice new techniques...with a never-ending desire to learn and improve. 9:00 - Key point: Importance of reducing time under tension while grip near-limit holds. 12:38 Exploit Eric's bi-modal approach to climbing steep, strenuous boulders and routes. 13:25 - When able, vary grip position throughout longer climbs. 16:17 - Climb more with hip turns, drop knees, back steps, and twist locks. On steep, difficult routes, try to void long sequences of "neutral" climbing. 20:43 - Strategy #2: Begin "micro resting" between hand grips on hard sequences. Encourage blood flow and maximize use of the aerobic energy system...so as to slow the drain of the finite  anaerobic reserve. 25:15 - Strategy #3: Try to find a "thank God" rest on every hard route. Be creative. Experiment. Practice. Win more often...and punt less! 31:31 - Strategy #4: Use the "G-tox" recovery technique at rest positions on difficult routes. This will aid faster recovery compared with the standard dangling-arm shakeout. 38:00 - Strategy #5: Consume foods and supplements with nitrates...and other ingredients that improve circulation and enhance use of the oxidative energy system. Read more about Endure X here >> 46:50 - Summary of tips and strategies for improving your endurance and climbing harder! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

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