Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast Episode #73 - 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing - Part 1
In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental), this podcast will arm you with tips and techniques to put to work, beginning today. Take your game to the next level with tips from episodes 73 and 74! RUNDOWN
0:35 - Eric's Welcome!
2:40 - Recap of Episodes 71 & 72, and how that sets up this Episode 73.
5:00 - Sponsor ad read - please support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
7:45 - Intro to 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing
9:00 - The importance of making small course corrections...which can make massive changes in your climbing in the long-term.
9:50 - PART 1 - 10 Tips for Beginner-level Climbers (0 to 2 years of regular climbing)
10:30 - KISS
12:20 - The "3- or 4-day-per-week Rule"
14:00 - Importance of Bouldering and Route climbing
15:15 - Score your sessions by moves (or feet) climbed, not absolute difficult climbed.
16:55 - The 80/20 Split
18:10 - The value of some strength training exercises
21:20 - Don't overlook flexibility training
23:40 - "Read" (visualize) every boulder or route before you begin to climb
25:20 - Learn the difference between Good Pain and Bad Pain
27:20 - Consider your BMI....and what it means for your health and climbing experience
29:45 PART 2 - 10 Tips for Intermediate Climbers (~2 to 5 years experience)
30:45 - Don't get injured training...as you begin to engage in more advanced, targeted training techniques!
32:22 - Don't Specialized...in just one form of climbing
34:40 - Do some outdoor climbing!
36:24 - Stick with the "80/20 split"
38:00 - Commit to understanding and learning to manage your fears.
40:50 - Learn to fall trying (in safe situations)
42:07 - Strive to increase awareness of your changing physical and emotional states...and learn countermeasures to optimize these states for performance.
44:30 - Practice climbing more efficiently--reclimbing boulders and routes on a quest for higher economy and elite movement skills.
47:00 - Be okay with failure--it's part of the process of learning and advancing as a climber. (If you're not failing sometimes, you're not advancing.)
53:24 - Intro to the new "The Struggle" podcast with Ryan Devlin - Episode #1 featuring Emily Harrington
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