
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone.
Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
Latest episodes

Jun 14, 2022 • 1h 13min
Episode #76 - The Optimal Mindset for Projecting & Sending!
Your training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing project. It's at these times that your mindset matters most! In this episode, Coach Hörst provides insights into how you can foster an optimal mental state to begin work on a new project...or send an ongoing project boulder, sport climbing, or big wall. The optimal mindset is highly distinct and dependent on your goal du jour. You'll learn how to quiet your mind with meditation and support your projecting and sending with self-talk. This is powerful information...so lean into this podcast and find some clues for taking your performance to the next level! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to mental training and mindset optimization for climbing. 2:20 - Brief recall of Podcast #75 on Self-Awareness -- an essential first step to taking control of your mindset. 5:06 - Controlling your thoughts -- harder than you think. 6:14 - Who controls your thinking? 8:46 - Developing a powerful mindset for climbing is a decades-long journey -- begin today! 10:00 - "To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do!" 11:00 - PART 1 - Your thoughts are powerful! 14:00 - Quiet your mind with meditation. 15:50 - Experience John Gill's "moving meditation." 17:00 - Dealing with racing thoughts. 18:18 - How to meditate. Getting good at it takes practice...ideally daily! *** Message about our Sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition, the leader in climbing-specific nutrition. Enhance endurance and recovery between efforts with ENDURE X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** 25:50 - PART 2 - How to build an optimal mindest for projecting and performance. 28:00 - Keep the valence of your self-talk POSITIVE! 29:04 - Be quick to reframe failed attempts or setbacks. 29:45 - "No Big Deal Honnold"! Learn about beginner- and elite-level reframing. 31:13 - WARNING: You must embrace the reality of a dire situation! 32:42 - Summary of self-talk techniques - The 4 keys to effective self-talk. 34:05 - Details on effective Self-Talk for Projecting vs. Redpointing 35:28 - Self-Talk techniques for Projecting. Learning is the goal...NOT sending! 41:30 - Ask yourself lots of questions. 46:35 - Mention of The Struggle Podcast -- Listen to 10 pro climber interviews! 46:48 - Developing the Optimal Mindset for Redpointing Your Project! 49:45 - Pre-climb self-talk 52:25 - Self-talk while you climb 55:14 - Mid-route rest self-talking strategy 57:35 - Thoughts to quash with positive self-talk 59:18 - Have a sense of humor in your self-talk 1:01:50 - Summary of 9 common climbing examples of how to reframe dis-empowering thoughts with positive self-talk 1:09:50 - Final tips and comments PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend! *** Support our sponsor! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >> SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

May 10, 2022 • 44min
Episode #75 - Increasing Self-Awareness in the Pursuit of Excellence
Self-awareness is the ability to monitor your internal climate, comprising your thoughts, physical sensations, and emotions, as well as the quality of your actions in the gym, at the crag, and in pursuing your life goals. Improving performance in anything demands that you develop higher awareness in each of these areas. Only this way can you improve your efficacy, make beneficial course corrections, and elevate your performance. In this podcast, Coach Horst details six areas to strive for increased self-awareness in order to pursue excellence in climbing...and beyond. RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to leveling up your climbing in-season. 3:50 - It's the mind that matters most when it's "send day" for you at the boulders, crag, or in competition. 4:55 - Overview of self-awareness...and its importance in elevating performance. SIX AREAS TO INCREASE YOUR SELF-AWARENESS 11:53 - #1 is Self-Awareness of Your Thoughts 15:55 - Four techniques to exercise your self-awareness. Learn more about self-awareness and mental training for higher climbing performance in the book Maximum Climbing >> 18:00 - #2 is Self-Awareness of Body & Emotions 21:10 - #3 is Self-Awareness Your Strengths & Weaknesses 22:18 - Exercise: Click here to view the episode webpage with the PDF download of a brief self-assessment to aid your self-awareness of climbing strengths/weaknesses >> *** Message about our Sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition, the leader in climbing-specific nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** 24:36 - #4 is Self-Awareness of your Actions and Results 27:40 - Link to the previous podcast on Proprioception >> 31:00 - #5 is Self-Awareness of your Self-Image 34:!5 - Learn how to reshape your self-image with techniques detailed in Chapter 11 of Training for Climbing. Purchase a copy here >> 34:30 - #6 is Self-Awareness of Your Values. 35:20 - Click here to view episode webpage with a PDF dowload to rank your values here >> 37:52 - Summary of tips and strategies to improve your self-awareness and elevate your performance. 40:50 - Final thoughts *** Support our sponsor! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >> PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Apr 1, 2022 • 1h 10min
Episode #74 - 20 Tips for Advanced- and Elite-Level Climbers
In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing, Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Discover how to employ a more nuanced and holistic approach to training and performance -- essential for eeking out further gains for high-level climbers with many years of experience. RUNDOWN 0:30 - Eric's Welcome! 4:04 - Intro to Advanced Climber Tips 6:06 - #1. Strive for a greater nuance of actions taken on and off the rock. 8:02 - #2. Become a true master of rock -- seek to elevate weaknesses...physical, mental, technical. 10:15 - #3. Re-evaluate (and switch up) your finger training. 13:30 - #4. MORE CORE! Learn what to do more/less of. 17:02 - #5. Seek to build a more robust, balanced, and injury-resistant physique. 19:40 - #6. Consider an occasional period of specialization. 23:00 - #7. Create a "seasonality" of your training/climbing system. 25:20 - #8. Employ brief periods of "overreach" training followed by a shorter spell of deload. 28:40 - #9. Clean up your diet and strive to fill in any nutrient shortcomings -- adequate protein consumption is important, but also be sure you're getting the necessary minerals to support muscle function (electrolytes and, in particular, magnesium). Learn how Magnesium supports ATP production here >> 32:30 - #10. Always have fun! Climbing is NOT your job....yet! 34:15 - Intro to Elite-Level Training and Performance 36:00 - #1. Develop a deep, long-term relationship with a coach...or seek out a veteran pro climber to be your mentor. 38:40 - #2. Attack lingering weaknesses...physical, mental, technical. 39:30 - Pro Tip...on the importance of training for a lower resting heart rate 41:40 - #3. Build a stronger cardiovascular system to power longer days of training/climbing, and to speed recovery between exercises, climbs, and workouts. 44:10 - #4. Engage in year-round climbing-specific training -- at least one session per week! 49:02 - #5. Commit to comprehensive core training -- high-level athletic achievement demands exceptional core strength and strength-endurance. 50:12 - #6. Design occasional project-specific training exercises and sessions. 52:38 - #7. Occasionally engage in outdoor climbing styles that are outside your wheelhouse. 54:20 - #8. Embark on a relentless journey to achieve higher efficiency in even the smallest aspects of climbing performance. 58:10 - #9. Be willing to sacrifice greatly. Learn more in this podcast "The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers" >> 1:01:45 - #10. Elevate your character, and seek a higher level of spiritual awareness and engagement with your surroundings. Believe in your mission! 1:06:20 - Summary comments. 1:07:00 - Support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >> PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Mar 7, 2022 • 57min
Episode #73 - 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing - Part 1
In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental), this podcast will arm you with tips and techniques to put to work, beginning today. Take your game to the next level with tips from episodes 73 and 74! RUNDOWN 0:35 - Eric's Welcome! 2:40 - Recap of Episodes 71 & 72, and how that sets up this Episode 73. 5:00 - Sponsor ad read - please support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 7:45 - Intro to 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing 9:00 - The importance of making small course corrections...which can make massive changes in your climbing in the long-term. 9:50 - PART 1 - 10 Tips for Beginner-level Climbers (0 to 2 years of regular climbing) 10:30 - KISS 12:20 - The "3- or 4-day-per-week Rule" 14:00 - Importance of Bouldering and Route climbing 15:15 - Score your sessions by moves (or feet) climbed, not absolute difficult climbed. 16:55 - The 80/20 Split 18:10 - The value of some strength training exercises 21:20 - Don't overlook flexibility training 23:40 - "Read" (visualize) every boulder or route before you begin to climb 25:20 - Learn the difference between Good Pain and Bad Pain 27:20 - Consider your BMI....and what it means for your health and climbing experience 29:45 PART 2 - 10 Tips for Intermediate Climbers (~2 to 5 years experience) 30:45 - Don't get injured training...as you begin to engage in more advanced, targeted training techniques! 32:22 - Don't Specialized...in just one form of climbing 34:40 - Do some outdoor climbing! 36:24 - Stick with the "80/20 split" 38:00 - Commit to understanding and learning to manage your fears. 40:50 - Learn to fall trying (in safe situations) 42:07 - Strive to increase awareness of your changing physical and emotional states...and learn countermeasures to optimize these states for performance. 44:30 - Practice climbing more efficiently--reclimbing boulders and routes on a quest for higher economy and elite movement skills. 47:00 - Be okay with failure--it's part of the process of learning and advancing as a climber. (If you're not failing sometimes, you're not advancing.) 53:24 - Intro to the new "The Struggle" podcast with Ryan Devlin - Episode #1 featuring Emily Harrington PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Feb 14, 2022 • 1h 3min
Episode #72: Training Case Studies - Part 2
In this PART 2, hear Eric's training advice for two elite/pro-level climbers. For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary. In PART 1 (podcast #71) and this episode combined, Eric coaches four climbers that cover the full spectrum of ability from first-year beginner to full-time professional climber. Chances are, you'll be able to relate to one of these climbers and benefit from Eric's recommendations. Or perhaps, you're at a place in the climbing journey that's midway between two of these climbers...and you'll be able to glean actionable tips from a couple of these consults. RUNDOWN 0:35 - Eric's Welcome! Climber #3 - Twenty-something "Elite Climber" 12:28 - Climber Overview 14:28 - Eric's Impressions 18:18 - Training Recommendations. 30:50 - Program Summary Climber #4 - "Professional Climber" with 20+ years experience 24:20 - Climber Overview 26:02- Eric's Impressions 30:00 - Training Recommendations 30:44 - Strength/Power Training Advice 42:08 - Power-Endurance Training Advice Listen to Eric's Energy System Podcasts #21 - #28 Listen to the first in the 5-part series here >> 58:50 - Program Summary PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 PhysiVantage is now available in Europe from the EPIC-TV Shop! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Feb 7, 2022 • 53min
Episode #71: Training Case Studies - Part 1
Gain clues to improving the effectiveness of your training-for-climbing system from this fascinating two-part podcast! Listen to Eric's personalized training advice as given to four climbers of widely varying ability. For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, his Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary. The four climbers Eric coaches here cover the full spectrum of ability from first-year beginner to full-time professional climber. Chances are, that you'll be able to relate to one of these climbers and benefit from Eric's recommendations. Or perhaps, your place in the climbing journey is midway between two of these climbers...and you'll be able to glean actionable tips from a couple of these consults. RUNDOWN 0:35 - Eric's Welcome! 2:00 - Introduction to Training Case Studies, and the value of a personalized training program. 5:20 - Horst Training backstory. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 Announcing PhysiVantage now available in Europe via the EPIC-TV Shop! 9:25 - Overview of the 4 climbing training case studies coming in this episode (and next week's episode). Climber #1 - "Enthusiastic Beginner" with 1 year of climbing experience. 12:28 - Climber Overview 14:28 - Eric's Impressions 18:18 - Training Recommendations. 30:50 - Program Summary Climber #2 - "Strong, Experience Intermediate" with 5 years of experience. 31:35 - Climber Overview 34:20 - Eric's Impressions 38:05 - Training Recommendations. 49:50 - Program Summary PART 2 will be released Monday February 14th! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Jan 2, 2022 • 55min
Episode #70 - A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing...and Beyond!
In this empowering New Year's podcast, Eric details effective strategies for uncommon success in climbing and any other high-value life activity or mission. Learn 3 essential steps for departing onto a road less traveled--a journey defined by intentional daily action that yields rapid progress, while avoiding common "black holes" that can consume time, energy, and focus...and rob you of your future greatness. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 RUNDOWN 0:30 - Introduction -- Happy New Year! Let's make 2022 a great one! 1:00 - Why most people fail with their New Year's Resolutions and goals. 2:40 - My unpublished book manuscript "Mental Wings" -- about how all performance is brain-based...and begins with the quality of your thoughts. 3:50 - My most powerful published book is "Maximum Climbing". Available from Amazon.com and PhysiVantage.com 5:00 - I'm passionate about inspiring you...and helping you become the best climber you can be...and to see you live your dream life! 6:30 - What are the biggest factors...and limiting constraints on your progress in climbing (and other life endeavors)? 7:50 - Your THOUGHTS are EVERYTHING! Who and what controls your thoughts minute by minute? 10:45 - Exercise: List 5 or 10 things you would attempt to do if you were assured you could not fail? 11:25 - Exercise: Create a list of things you fear...bad habits...and other things that are holding you back...tethering you to living in a state of status quo. 12:30 - STEP #1: Change is a MUST! All improvement in climbing (or life) begins with a decision that change and improvement is a MUST! 13:20 - Creating leverage for making the (painful) changes that are essential for leveling your situation. 16:00 - The "Feedforward" Exercise...for identifying a meaningful step to take TODAY to advance you toward your goals. 18:30 - Mental Wings principle: "To outperform the masses you must do things they don't do." 24:10 - The power of becoming a "practical non-conformist". 29:30 - Step #2: Set compelling goals. 31:00 - 6 steps for effective goal setting...and achievement! 34:30 - Introducing PhysiVantage Europe! We are proud to partner with the EPIC-TV shop to bring performance nutrition to European climbers. 36:15 - Step #3: Make Every Day Count 38:00 - Enjoy this moment--every moment!--because this moment is a piece of your life that you'll never get back. 39:20 - Do you ever feel like there's not enough time in the day? 42:35 - What are your time black holes? 45:00 - Exercise: Track your time use (from waking up) for at least 3 days. Be accurate in documenting your "time-wasting" activities? 48:00 - The importance of developing a personal time-management system. You must not just let your day unfold without intention...and a schedule for taking some meaningful action towards your goals. 52:10 - Concluding thoughts...and wishes for your grand success in the New Year! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

8 snips
Dec 10, 2021 • 1h 11min
Episode #69 - 10 Common Training-for-Climbing Mistakes
"The best training program for you is one that you're not currently doing." — Coach Hörst In this revealing podcast, learn 10 common training mistakes that stunt progress in climbing, slow strength and endurance gains, waste time and energy, and potentially contribute to injury. This is a must-listen impactful podcast for anyone wanting to take their training — and climbing! — to the next level. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 RUNDOWN 0:20 - Introduction -- the value of an end-of-season analysis and training program redesign. 3:16 - Mistake #1: Arriving at the gym and training without a plan 6:50 - Mistake #2: Copying someone else’s training program 11:00 - Mistake #3: “Groundhog Day” Training 17:58 - Mistake #4: Doing little or no sub-maximal climbing Listen to the first in a series of 5 podcasts on Energy System Training >> 26:42 - Mistake #5: Not doing any generalized aerobic training 32:45 - Mistake #6: Doing little or no max-strength hangboard training 39:34 - Mistake #7: Not doing any antagonist and stabilizer muscle training 43:43 - Mistake #8: Getting drawn into a serious weight lifting, body building, or cross-fit style program 49:00 - Mistake #9: Ignoring (and training through) developing aches and pains Listen to podcast #39 on the "Perfect Storm" for climbing injuries >> 58:00 - Mistake #10: Overeating...or undereating 1:08:40 - Summary: Eric's closing comments on improving the effectiveness of your training and taking your climbing to the next level. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Nov 3, 2021 • 1h 14min
Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint
I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I'll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and going for the send on my final climbing day of the trip. I trust you'll find some techniques and tactics to adopt and adapt to improve your boulder or route projecting. RUNDOWN 0:30 - And now for something completely different -- I hope you love this podcast! 6:18 - Deconstructing a project route: HERCULES (5.13a/7c+) Learn about my 3-session journey of sussing beta, managing fears, and developing a strategy for the send. 13:40 - Session 1: Sussing out the project. 15:40 - Session 2: Getting down to business... 16:20 - Address fears first. Working the first of 4 "chucks"....the unpleasant slab start. 22:52 - Working Chuck #2 - power climbing out a 25-foot overhanging wall and roof. Move by move beta is refined for efficiency and power conservation. 32:20 - Pro Tip: Taking "mental snapshots" of key holds. 34:25 - Dismissing phantom fears... 37:48 - Working chuck #3...the redpoint crux. 41:10 - Dialing in chuck #4...the anchor run. 44:00 - Time for two redpoint goes. So close! (Or, was I?) 50:40 - Message from the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 52:00 - HERCULES on my mind...for days! Visualization and game-changing beta ideas. 57:27 - Session 3 - Mother Nature provides a chance...but could Eric take down Hercules? 1:05:10 - Blow-by-blow commentary of the redpoint go -- a look inside the mind of Coach Horst. 1:12:00 - Closing comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Oct 1, 2021 • 1h 3min
Episode #67 - The Perfect Warm-up Protocol for Optimal Training & Sending!
One of the most powerful concepts I coach is that simple and seemingly "minor things" can make a MASSIVE difference in your training results and climbing performance. This is why I use the word "nuance" so often in my Training For Climbing podcasts! Warming up before training and climbing is one of those "minor things" that many people do hastily--or dismiss completely. Little do they know that they're sabotaging their ability to train and climb their best. They will likely get "flash pumped" and leak energy, fail to recruit full power, move inefficiently and with undue tension, fail prematurely on near-limit movements, and perhaps even set the stage for experiencing a muscle spasm, tendon tweak, or worse. In this podcast, coach Horst provides rich detail on how to perform the perfect warm-up. Yes, it's a relatively slow process with lots of details and nuance. But taking the time to warm up completely will set you up for an optimally effective workout and just maybe a low-gravity send day! RUNDOWN 0:30 - First thoughts on warming up -- it's not sexy, but doing it right is essential if you're to train/climb your best! 2:38 - Different training/climbing situations demand different approaches to warming up. 3:55 - Doing the perfect warm-up will build confidence, empower you to release full power...and is a contributing factor to "low gravity days". 5:00 - Why what most people do (or call) a "warm-up" isn't enough. 6:30 - How you feel on your boulders and routes is massively influenced by your warm-up...or lack of it. 9:30 - The "perfect" warm-up is personal--experiment to discover what gives you the best results. 11:30 - Hone in on your perfect warm-up protocol--make it repeatable! 12:20 - A repeatable warm-up empowers you to use autoregulation of your day's training or climbing plan. This is a powerful topic covered in podcast #20. Listen here >> 15:15 - SEVEN STEPS TO THE PERFECT WARM-UP 16:52 - Step 1: Spend a few minutes firing up your cardiovascular system. It's a small investment of time/effort, but it's vital for preparing the body for the remainder of the warm-up protocol. 19:12 - Step 2: Engaging in some dynamic stretching activities to lubricate connective tissues and joints. (A bit of static stretching of the legs and hips may be useful to increase range of motion before climbing.) Perform some low-intensity climbing movements provides a good dynamic warm-up of the tendons, ligaments, shoulders, core, hips, and more! 21:54 - Step 3: Activate the climbing-specific muscles (agonists) with a series of progressively more difficult pull-up movements and finger hangs (various grip positions). 26:34 - Step 4: Turn on your power! This step requires you to do some quick movements with the climbing muscles (power pull-ups, a small amount of campusing on large holds, and similar) to increase the rate of force development (for maximal finger contact strength and dynamic climbing power). 32:00 - Step 5: Turn on the anaerobic lactic and climbing-specific aerobic energy systems with a few warm-up routes or bouldering intervals that get you moderately pumped (level 8 out of 10 pump). Don't NOT climb to the point of a severe (flash) pump and muscular failure during your warm-up--this will adversely affect the rest of your session. 36:10 - Step 6: Turn on the antagonist muscle with a set of push-ups (or one set of moderately heavy bench press), a submaximal set of dips, a set of shoulder press, and some rotator cuff (one set of external rotation) and scapular stabilizer warm-ups using a TRX sling training or exercise band. 41:25 - Step 7: Perform a targeted core warm-up. Yes, doing a few sets of core exercises to fully recruit the core before performance climbing can be game-changing! 45:35 - 90-second podcast sponsor message -- Learn how you can climbing better, gain strength and endurance, recover faster, and become more injury resistant with PhysiVantage! 47:00 - Learn how to adjust your warm-up protocol for 3 common climbing and training situations. 47:30 - #1: An easy session at the gym or day of climbing bouldering or climbing. 49:10 - #2: A session of high-end training in the gym, or near-limit bouldering. 53:20 - #3: Route climbing for performance in the gym or at the crag. 1:00:45 - Closing thoughts. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts...and SHARE this podcast with a friend or on social media.! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15