The RunOut Podcast

A new climbing management plan in Joshua Tree National Park redefines bolts as installations. We pore through this ominous plan to try to figure what the hell is going on in J-tree, and what this may mean for climbing in Wilderness locations around the country. Then, we sit down with Dr. Jared Vagy, AKA The Climbing Doctor, a physical therapist based in Los Angeles who specializes in treating climbing injuries. Our conversation runs the gamut of everything from finger tweaks to back pain, and ultimately meanders into a meta analysis of how one comes to be an expert in training and injury prevention. For today’s final bit, get those horns up Television Sick—a band that plays loud, fast music from climber / guitarist Hunter Goldfish. Show Notes Climbing Management Plan for Joshua Tree National Park The Climbing Doctor “Afterglow,” Television Sick, available at Bandcamp. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Ned Feehally is one of the few climbers ever to have flashed V14 (8B+). He is also one of the founders of Beastmaker, a U.K. climbing company that ushered in an era of fine wood hangboards that you just don’t mind grabbing cause they’re just so cushy. His new book is ”Beastmaking: A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber,” and is a comprehensive look at training techniques that anyone can use. We discuss training philosophy with Ned, the rise of guru-dom in the training world and the why training has gotten too complicated for its own good. But first, we attempt to make this podcast a true-crime pod by speculating on whodunnit with regards to the recent vandalism of the Big Bend boulders outside of Moab, Utah. Moab uber-local Lisa Hathaway gives us a first-hand report on GreaseGate as we probe the scene of the crime. Last but never least, Chris Parker returns to the Final Bit with a new song called Passing Through about ultra-runner Joe Grant’s Colorado feats of glory. The song will officially debut in vinyl alongside an “immersive experience” at the Five Point Film festival this spring. Show Notes Ned Feehally on Instagram. “Beastmaking” is available from Vertebrate Publishing and Amazon. News: Ned Feehally and Shauna Coxsey are coming to Salt Lake City for a presentation and book signing on March 20. Get your tickets here. Steph Davis’ Instagram post about Greasegate. Anyone with information about Greasegate can call the BLM tip line at 435-259-2131. Callers may remain anonymous. Chris Parker Music Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Friend of the pod and crusher of granite Jordan Cannon returns to the show with an update from his life on the road. We dive into a range of topics across the climbing spectrum, while trying not to be old-shamed by our young friend. But first, tragedy strikes in Patagonia as the climbing world loses one of its best: Corrado “Korra” Pesce, who died while descending Cerro Torre on January 28th. His partner Tommy Aguilo experienced serious injuries and attempted to descend alone, and was ultimately rescued in a completely heroic effort by some of the best climbers in the world. We discuss the story itself, and pay homage to the noteworthy successes and climbing accomplishments that were sadly overshadowed by the tragedy that ensued. Finally, we end on happier note, as Dylan Taylor, aka “Climberisms” on Instagram, imagines a conversation between Adam Ondra and Alex Honnold about baby diapers. Show Notes “Corrado 'Korra' Pesce dies after climbing new route on Cerro Torre with Tomas Aguilo” A crowdfunder to help Korra Pesce’s daughter. Description of Tommy and Korra’s new route. Follow Jordan Cannon Follow Dylan Taylor Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Are you listening to The RunOut or TMZ? It may be hard to tell as we catch up on the latest celebrity gossip: weddings, babies, and who we are wearing this season. Next, we are joined by Dorian Evers, a climber and couples therapist from Boulder, to talk about some of the typical red flags and relationship disfunction that she sees across the climbing world, beginning with how relationships are portrayed in films. Finally, we’re stoked to share a folksy bluegrass band from California, One Grass Two Grass. Their song She Sings is from their latest album All Storms Pass. (The band’s bassist, Sam Trimboli, is a solid rock climber and surfer.) Show Notes Adrian Ballinger and Emily Harrington wedding in NYT, ABC News, and SF Chronicle Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki’s wedding announcement Dorian Evers: Cultivate Growth Therapy One Grass Two Grass homepage and Instagram All Storms Pass on Spotify Sam Trimboli on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Alex Lowe was considered one of the best climbers in the world in the 1990s. His feats in the mountains were as legendary as his infectious stoke for getting out and loving life on the edge every minute of every day. In October 1999, he and the cameraman David Bridges were killed in an avalanche on Shishipangma in Tibet. Their third partner, Conrad Anker, however, was miraculously spared the same fate and ended up surviving the avalanche. Alex left behind a wife, Jenni, and three young boys: Max, Sam, and Isaac. In the wake of Alex’s death, Conrad, racked by survivor’s guilt, stepped into the role of dad for the Lowe boys, and he ended up falling in love with and marrying Jenni. Today, Max Lowe has become a renowned National Geographic photographer and filmmaker. His new film, TORN, explores his family’s complex relationships in the wake of father’s death. The film is a haunting and unsparing look at how death can tear a family apart, and what it takes to heal. Next, our favorite lyricist and climbing trainer Kris Hampton treats us to a final bit. Show Notes Watch the trailer for TORN Find a screening for TORN near you. Power Company Climbing

RunOut #73: Real Crack with Tom Randall Today we’re joined by British crack-climbing legend Tom Randall to discuss his latest first ascent with his partner in crime Pete Whittaker. The duo, fondly known as the Wide Boyz, recently completed a 2,500-foot dead-horizontal roof crack on the underside of overpass in their native England. The 70-pitch crack, with difficulties consistently between 5.12d and 5.13b took the lads four days, and this journey will be subject of an upcoming Reel Rock film fest. But first, we hash out an online scuffle involving whether a GriGri has a place on a multi-pitch climber’s rack. Finally, Bradley Carter, aka Chum-DM3, pays homage to the late Paul Nelson, who unexpectedly died of natural causes earlier this year. Show Notes The Great Rift report. Follow Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker on Instagram Enormocast on Facebook. “Full Nelson” by Chum-DM3 on Apple Music Paul Nelson obituary. “The Day I Sent Color Blind (5.13 R)” by Paul Nelson on Evening Sends Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Lor Sabourin is one of the country’s top trad climbers, with ascents as hard as 5.14a on gear. They are a coach, a guide, and the subject of a new film called, “They / Them: One Climber’s Story.” We spoke to Lor about the film, and also got the low-down on the incredible route that we see Lor climb in the film. For today’s final bit, we’re serving you a tasty musical treat pulled from the catalog of Chris Kalous’ days as a member of the band Sector 7G. This song, which climbing-podcast aficionados will recognize as the outro music to the Enormocast, is called “Borrowed Time.” Sector 7G was one of those “you-had-to-be-there” bands of Carbondale, Colorado, funkadelic myth, but today their legend lives on. Please enjoy, happy thanksgiving to all who celebrate, and see you folks in December as we’ve got a ton of great guests and topics to discuss. Show Notes “They / Them: One Climber’s Story” Lor Sabourin on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Birthday challenge accepted: Chris Kalous manages to commemorate his big 50th birthday with a big day of climbing: 50 pitches at Indian Creek. After the soreness and cramps relent, we catch up and decompress about a day that was personally meaningful and resonated widely. Next, we catch up with Drew Hulsey, a climber and social work from Tennessee who is using his Instagram account to do big things and show the climbing world that this is a sport for everyone. We learn the amazing story of how Drew got into the sport, and how he balances his ambitions in a sport that can sometimes seem quite competitive. For our final bit, more buddy spray! If you want to shout out your buddy, you can become a RopeGun by joining us on Patreon. Show Notes Drew Hulsey on Instagram “Why We Go: Drew” Birthday challenge Bonus Episode of The RunOut Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

What was the first 5.15b in the US? With Matty Hong’s recent second ascent of Flex Luthor, which upgraded to 5.15b, we consider how this news shapes Tommy Caldwell’s legacy and what this means for our understanding of sport climbing. Nerd alert! Grade geekery ahead. … For our main bit, we speak with the esteemed Len Necefer about the restoration of Bear’s Ears by the Biden administration, as well as the potential danger of land acknowledgements. Len is a pHd. and assistant professor at the University of Arizona with joint appointments with the American Indian Studies program & the Udall Center for Public Policy. In addition, he is the founder & CEO of Natives Outdoors. But most folks will know him as the Meme God of the outdoor world, whose wonderful sense of humor on Instagram spares no target or topic. Finally, a bit of buddy spray—a new bit in which listeners tell us about their climbing buddy’s big sends. If you’ve got a buddy you want to spray about, you have to join us on Patreon as this is only open to Rope Guns. Show Notes Matty Hong sends Flex Luthor Climb Harder Just By Getting Older—like Tommy Caldwell Len Necefer on Instagram. Website. We Need to Reframe Why We Do Land Acknowledgments Biden Restores Bears Ears and Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monuments Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Chris Sharma makes his RunOut podcast debut to catch us up on what’s going on his busy life as a gym owner who just opened the biggest climbing gym in Barcelona, a TV show host, a father, and of course, sport climbing’s GOATiest GOAT. We dive into life, happiness, meeting Aquaman at Hueco, finding balance, the state of the sport, and future aspirations. And for our Final Bit, Lee Sheftel, local hero and friend, tickles the ivories and shares the secret of eternal youth. Show Notes Sharma Climbing gym HBO Max show announcement Chris Sharma on Instagram IFSC apology Lee Sheftel profile in the Daily Camera Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com