The RunOut Podcast

Are you listening to The RunOut or TMZ? It may be hard to tell as we catch up on the latest celebrity gossip: weddings, babies, and who we are wearing this season. Next, we are joined by Dorian Evers, a climber and couples therapist from Boulder, to talk about some of the typical red flags and relationship disfunction that she sees across the climbing world, beginning with how relationships are portrayed in films. Finally, we’re stoked to share a folksy bluegrass band from California, One Grass Two Grass. Their song She Sings is from their latest album All Storms Pass. (The band’s bassist, Sam Trimboli, is a solid rock climber and surfer.) Show Notes Adrian Ballinger and Emily Harrington wedding in NYT, ABC News, and SF Chronicle Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki’s wedding announcement Dorian Evers: Cultivate Growth Therapy One Grass Two Grass homepage and Instagram All Storms Pass on Spotify Sam Trimboli on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Alex Lowe was considered one of the best climbers in the world in the 1990s. His feats in the mountains were as legendary as his infectious stoke for getting out and loving life on the edge every minute of every day. In October 1999, he and the cameraman David Bridges were killed in an avalanche on Shishipangma in Tibet. Their third partner, Conrad Anker, however, was miraculously spared the same fate and ended up surviving the avalanche. Alex left behind a wife, Jenni, and three young boys: Max, Sam, and Isaac. In the wake of Alex’s death, Conrad, racked by survivor’s guilt, stepped into the role of dad for the Lowe boys, and he ended up falling in love with and marrying Jenni. Today, Max Lowe has become a renowned National Geographic photographer and filmmaker. His new film, TORN, explores his family’s complex relationships in the wake of father’s death. The film is a haunting and unsparing look at how death can tear a family apart, and what it takes to heal. Next, our favorite lyricist and climbing trainer Kris Hampton treats us to a final bit. Show Notes Watch the trailer for TORN Find a screening for TORN near you. Power Company Climbing

RunOut #73: Real Crack with Tom Randall Today we’re joined by British crack-climbing legend Tom Randall to discuss his latest first ascent with his partner in crime Pete Whittaker. The duo, fondly known as the Wide Boyz, recently completed a 2,500-foot dead-horizontal roof crack on the underside of overpass in their native England. The 70-pitch crack, with difficulties consistently between 5.12d and 5.13b took the lads four days, and this journey will be subject of an upcoming Reel Rock film fest. But first, we hash out an online scuffle involving whether a GriGri has a place on a multi-pitch climber’s rack. Finally, Bradley Carter, aka Chum-DM3, pays homage to the late Paul Nelson, who unexpectedly died of natural causes earlier this year. Show Notes The Great Rift report. Follow Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker on Instagram Enormocast on Facebook. “Full Nelson” by Chum-DM3 on Apple Music Paul Nelson obituary. “The Day I Sent Color Blind (5.13 R)” by Paul Nelson on Evening Sends Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Lor Sabourin is one of the country’s top trad climbers, with ascents as hard as 5.14a on gear. They are a coach, a guide, and the subject of a new film called, “They / Them: One Climber’s Story.” We spoke to Lor about the film, and also got the low-down on the incredible route that we see Lor climb in the film. For today’s final bit, we’re serving you a tasty musical treat pulled from the catalog of Chris Kalous’ days as a member of the band Sector 7G. This song, which climbing-podcast aficionados will recognize as the outro music to the Enormocast, is called “Borrowed Time.” Sector 7G was one of those “you-had-to-be-there” bands of Carbondale, Colorado, funkadelic myth, but today their legend lives on. Please enjoy, happy thanksgiving to all who celebrate, and see you folks in December as we’ve got a ton of great guests and topics to discuss. Show Notes “They / Them: One Climber’s Story” Lor Sabourin on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Birthday challenge accepted: Chris Kalous manages to commemorate his big 50th birthday with a big day of climbing: 50 pitches at Indian Creek. After the soreness and cramps relent, we catch up and decompress about a day that was personally meaningful and resonated widely. Next, we catch up with Drew Hulsey, a climber and social work from Tennessee who is using his Instagram account to do big things and show the climbing world that this is a sport for everyone. We learn the amazing story of how Drew got into the sport, and how he balances his ambitions in a sport that can sometimes seem quite competitive. For our final bit, more buddy spray! If you want to shout out your buddy, you can become a RopeGun by joining us on Patreon. Show Notes Drew Hulsey on Instagram “Why We Go: Drew” Birthday challenge Bonus Episode of The RunOut Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

What was the first 5.15b in the US? With Matty Hong’s recent second ascent of Flex Luthor, which upgraded to 5.15b, we consider how this news shapes Tommy Caldwell’s legacy and what this means for our understanding of sport climbing. Nerd alert! Grade geekery ahead. … For our main bit, we speak with the esteemed Len Necefer about the restoration of Bear’s Ears by the Biden administration, as well as the potential danger of land acknowledgements. Len is a pHd. and assistant professor at the University of Arizona with joint appointments with the American Indian Studies program & the Udall Center for Public Policy. In addition, he is the founder & CEO of Natives Outdoors. But most folks will know him as the Meme God of the outdoor world, whose wonderful sense of humor on Instagram spares no target or topic. Finally, a bit of buddy spray—a new bit in which listeners tell us about their climbing buddy’s big sends. If you’ve got a buddy you want to spray about, you have to join us on Patreon as this is only open to Rope Guns. Show Notes Matty Hong sends Flex Luthor Climb Harder Just By Getting Older—like Tommy Caldwell Len Necefer on Instagram. Website. We Need to Reframe Why We Do Land Acknowledgments Biden Restores Bears Ears and Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monuments Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Chris Sharma makes his RunOut podcast debut to catch us up on what’s going on his busy life as a gym owner who just opened the biggest climbing gym in Barcelona, a TV show host, a father, and of course, sport climbing’s GOATiest GOAT. We dive into life, happiness, meeting Aquaman at Hueco, finding balance, the state of the sport, and future aspirations. And for our Final Bit, Lee Sheftel, local hero and friend, tickles the ivories and shares the secret of eternal youth. Show Notes Sharma Climbing gym HBO Max show announcement Chris Sharma on Instagram IFSC apology Lee Sheftel profile in the Daily Camera Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #68: Chasing the Alpinist Marc André Leclerc was one of the most reticent and enigmatic figures in climbing—a guy who few knew much about other than what what we learned from the second-hand reports emanating out of the alpine and describing his latest solo. Even the perpetually nonplussed Alex Honnold shuddered in fear and awe upon hearing some of what Leclerc had managed to climb. On today’s podcast, we are joined by the director and filmmaker Peter Mortimer, whose new film is The Alpinist, which tells the definitive and long-awaited story of Marc André Leclerc. Peter reveals some of the behind-the-scenes details about making this film, the honor of getting to know one of the most beguiling and talented figures of our sport in recent years, and ultimately, the pain of losing him to an avalanche right as the film was supposed to be wrapped. But first, we dive into a bolting debacle on Pike’s Peak and consider whether we’re in the final throes of these debates, or if we will continue to see the invocation of the Bachar-Yerian Fallacy as a way to perpetuate climbing’s most depressing pissing match. For our final bit, Aaron Glasenapp has a total eclipse of the heart. Show Notes The Alpinist film homepage and where to get tickets. Sender Films “From Climbing Partners to Bitter Enemies: In the Trenches of the Pikes Peak Bolt War” by Corey Buhay for Climbing.com Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance survey results The Case of Ten Sleep on Evening Sends. Watching the eclipse on the Grand Teton. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

John Long needs no introduction—he’s climbing’s most prolific writer, Stonemaster, and a genre unto himself. He joins us to talk about his excellent new book, Icarus Syndrome, a collection of 19 essays that, in different ways, explore our strange compulsion to risk it all. After this deep literary dive, you might find yourself thinking, “You know what would be perfect right about now? A nice cup of tea.” The RunOut has got you covered! Hazel Findlay joins us from across the pond and gently guides us through the steps we must follow to make a proper cup of tea. If you’re listening on the free feed, you’ll hear us answer a question submitted by one of our Rope Guns. This excerpt came from an hour-plus-long AMA episode that was available to our Rope Guns on Patreon. For as little as $5.14 / month, you can become a Rope Gun and get access to full bonus episodes and the satisfaction in supporting your favorite climbing podcast. Show Notes Icarus Syndrome from DiAngelo Publications. Follow John Long on Instagram and Facebook. Hazel Findlay — Instagram Subscribe to Hazel and Mina’s excellent podcast: The Curious Climber Podcast Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Who owns the rock? The answer is, obvi, no one … And yet some climbers sure seem to act as if they think they do. We dive into a discursive etiquette discussion after some Ten Sleep climbers hog up a rock climb all day long. Then, Jackie Hueftle, a legend in route setting and part of the team at Kilter, joins us to talk about the art of route setting. If you think route setting is just a matter of screwing holds onto a piece of wood, you’ll be surprised to learn how much talent and physical fitness is required to be a top route setter in the climbing world. Jackie also gives us her predictions on the Olympics, given that the route-setting team is all male. Finally, Raymon Bonner, a show listener, treats us to some original music on the “youk” (ukulele). If you’d like to submit your own idea for a Final Bit—a bit of music, a joke, fourth-wave feminist slam poetry, a surly rant—you can send in your idea to andrew@runoutpodcast.com. Show Notes Setter Closet “The History of Climbing Holds” by Jackie Hueftle for Route Setter magazine “Where are all the female route setters?” “Setting the Standard” — interviews with IFSC route setters at Gym Climber. The RunOut #65: Beating the GOAT — Check out our last episode for more about climbing in the Olympics. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com