The RunOut Podcast

Connor Herson returns to the show, a few years older, a few inches taller, and more than a few impressive ticks under his belt. One of his latest ascents is “Empath” on gear—potentially one of the harder gear leads ever recorded. Carlo Traversi first climbed Empath and proposed 5.15a. After quickly sending the route as a sport climb, Connor had the idea of trying it on gear. In this episode he shares his experience with that process, his thoughts about the difficulty of the route, and his vision for what’s next (hint: it’s not climbing). First, your friendly and utterly relatable hosts pay homage to a kind of trad climbing that most of y’all will be more familiar with—the everyday, everyperson experience of going up on a 5.10 or 5.11 with a rack of gear and trying to onsight your way to the top. Could this be any different from, say, the ego-fluff of Ten Sleep? Finally, Jeremy Fullerton gives us the first-person account of one of the most epic days in Rocky Mountain National Park, when the mountains moved. Show Notes Connor Herson on Instagram. Does Connor’s ascent of Empath on gear count as the hardest trad ascent? Rocky Mountain National Park Closes Chaos Canyon Area Due to Rockslide Watch Will Mondragon’s footy of the rockslide. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Hard, scary trad climbing is all fun and games until someone breaks their back. That’s what happened to Molly Mitchell on Crank It, a 5.13+ sport climb in Boulder Canyon that Molly was attempting to headpoint on gear. Nevertheless, Molly sought redemption and returned to the climb years later and ultimately sent it on gear. But what she discovered about her self, and her health, ended up being the real prize of this inspiring journey. But first, the hosts take a closer look at how one of the biggest and hardest routes on Denali got not one but two insane speed records set within a matter of weeks. That would be the Slovak Direct, with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau setting the pace at 21 hours, 35 minutes. Then two weeks later, Michael Gardner, Sam Hennessey and Rob Smith came in at 17 hours, 10 minutes. Our final bit is music from an old classic. Show Notes Follow Molly Mitchell on Instagram. Read Climbing magazine’s report on Molly’s ascent. The Alpinist reports on the Slovak Direct. Justification for an Elitist Attitude, by Mark Twight. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

We begin with a conversation with Ben Hanna, the newest member of the prestigious USA Climbing National Team. At 23 years young, Ben is a longtime crusher from Santa Fe who we’ve watched go from being a young grommet at Rifle to throwing down at World Cups with the world’s best. Ben talks to us about what the current comp scene is like, a short-lived controversy with the IFSC, and how living in a training house with some of the best climbers in the world upped his game. Next, we speak with Wali Kamal, a Pakistani-American climber from California who is working to support the development of crags and climbers in Pakistan. We wanted to highlight his efforts to strengthen the Pakistani climbing community, and discuss how this kind of development is so much more meaningful than the kind that only involves placing bolts in your local choss pile. Last but not least, we’re happy to introduce you to Bridget Epitropakis, a bright and talented climber and comedian from Australia who is currently working the comedy club scene in the front range of Colorado when she’s not out in Eldo. Show Notes Follow Ben Hanna on Instagram IFSC Last Minute Rule Change … Follow Wali Kamal on Instagram Follow Zom Connection and contribute to their GoFundMe to support Pakistani climbing. Follow Bridget Epitropakis on Instagram and Twitter Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Carlo Traversi is having one of the best climbing years of his life. He's sending V-insane, 5.15b sport, and 5.14c trad — all while managing a successful business that immeasurably improves the lives of climbers in his own community. He's got a healthy perspective on the sport, everyone respects him, and he's also super smart and has interesting opinions on everything. Yeah, we hate him too! Just kidding! Carlo is the man! We recorded this conversation earlier this year just after Carlo ticked Magic Line (5.14c), the second hardest pure trad climb in Yosemite after Meltdown, which Carlo also climbed for its first male ascent. Gawd, why is so good at climbing? We really hate him so, so much!Again, just KIDDING! We're psyched to share this episode on our public feed so long as at least HALF of everyone who listens agrees to support this podcast by becoming a Rope Gun on Patreon. Will you do it? Will you? Please?Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

What’s better: cragging it up in a full-on scene filled with gumbies and noobs, spray bros and crusher queens? Or going off to some obscure choss pile in the middle of nowhere and enjoying the quiet solitude of nature all by yourself? We debate the pros and cons of scenes vs solitude and come to the conclusion that, no matter which one you choose, either way the only person laughing at your jokes is still just you. Next, Freddie Wilkinson and Renan Ozturk join us to talk about their new film The Sanctity of Space, a feature-length film documenting their Tooth Traverse of the Moose’s Tooth massif in Alaska. The film, however, is a rich exploration of many profound themes in climbing, and a really compelling portrait of Bradford Washburn, the aerial mountain photographer, scientist, and mountaineer whose photograph was the original inspiration behind this ascent. Last but not least, Jonathan Howland reads a passage from his new book Native Air. Show Notes The Sanctity of Space — Showtimes Instagram: The Sanctity of Space. Freddie Wilkinson. Renan Ozturk. Native Air by Jonathan Howland. Jonathan Howland website. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Will a new film from Reel Rock encourage climbers to engage in risky behavior and not use their rubbers on the rock? We discuss Barefoot Charles and his conspicuously well-coifed mane of hair. Next we speak to Lauren DeLauney Miller, a writer and climber who has released a wonderful new book of first person essays from the significant women, both well known and perhaps lesser known, who have made contributions to Yosemite climbing history. Finally, we share the guitar-picking music of climber and friend of the show Harris Frief, a musician in Bishop, California. Show Notes Barefoot Charles Catch Barefoot Charles on the Reel Rock Tour Lauren DeLauney Miller website and Instagram Check out Harris Frief’s music on BandCamp: “Guitar” and “Right Where You Left Off” and please kick him a few bucks to support his great songwriting. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

After not watching the Oscars because who cares, we talk about the thing everyone was talking about and recall some of the more famous slaps that have been seen at crags around the world and throughout history and lore. Our main guest is Matt Segal, professional climber for The North Face, coffee entrepreneur, and publisher of the newly released Brine Magazine—a printed zine that looks at the intersection of food, adventure, and people, featuring gorgeous Drew Smith photography, and words written by ya’ boy Andrew Bisharat. Finally, we’re honored to feature the music and talents of Andy Mann, one of the most accomplished polar and ocean photographers in the world, a good climber, a great storyteller, and an overall wonderful human being. Show Notes Get a copy of Brine Magazine from Alpine Start Foods. Follow the Brine Mag crew on Instagram: Matt Segal, Drew Smith, Andrew Bisharat, Bryan Cole, Bret Roedemeier, and Brine Mag. Read Climbing in the Verdon on Evening Sends. Follow Andy Mann on Instagram. Check out Andy Mann’s website to see all the great things he’s doing. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

A new climbing management plan in Joshua Tree National Park redefines bolts as installations. We pore through this ominous plan to try to figure what the hell is going on in J-tree, and what this may mean for climbing in Wilderness locations around the country. Then, we sit down with Dr. Jared Vagy, AKA The Climbing Doctor, a physical therapist based in Los Angeles who specializes in treating climbing injuries. Our conversation runs the gamut of everything from finger tweaks to back pain, and ultimately meanders into a meta analysis of how one comes to be an expert in training and injury prevention. For today’s final bit, get those horns up Television Sick—a band that plays loud, fast music from climber / guitarist Hunter Goldfish. Show Notes Climbing Management Plan for Joshua Tree National Park The Climbing Doctor “Afterglow,” Television Sick, available at Bandcamp. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Ned Feehally is one of the few climbers ever to have flashed V14 (8B+). He is also one of the founders of Beastmaker, a U.K. climbing company that ushered in an era of fine wood hangboards that you just don’t mind grabbing cause they’re just so cushy. His new book is ”Beastmaking: A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber,” and is a comprehensive look at training techniques that anyone can use. We discuss training philosophy with Ned, the rise of guru-dom in the training world and the why training has gotten too complicated for its own good. But first, we attempt to make this podcast a true-crime pod by speculating on whodunnit with regards to the recent vandalism of the Big Bend boulders outside of Moab, Utah. Moab uber-local Lisa Hathaway gives us a first-hand report on GreaseGate as we probe the scene of the crime. Last but never least, Chris Parker returns to the Final Bit with a new song called Passing Through about ultra-runner Joe Grant’s Colorado feats of glory. The song will officially debut in vinyl alongside an “immersive experience” at the Five Point Film festival this spring. Show Notes Ned Feehally on Instagram. “Beastmaking” is available from Vertebrate Publishing and Amazon. News: Ned Feehally and Shauna Coxsey are coming to Salt Lake City for a presentation and book signing on March 20. Get your tickets here. Steph Davis’ Instagram post about Greasegate. Anyone with information about Greasegate can call the BLM tip line at 435-259-2131. Callers may remain anonymous. Chris Parker Music Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Friend of the pod and crusher of granite Jordan Cannon returns to the show with an update from his life on the road. We dive into a range of topics across the climbing spectrum, while trying not to be old-shamed by our young friend. But first, tragedy strikes in Patagonia as the climbing world loses one of its best: Corrado “Korra” Pesce, who died while descending Cerro Torre on January 28th. His partner Tommy Aguilo experienced serious injuries and attempted to descend alone, and was ultimately rescued in a completely heroic effort by some of the best climbers in the world. We discuss the story itself, and pay homage to the noteworthy successes and climbing accomplishments that were sadly overshadowed by the tragedy that ensued. Finally, we end on happier note, as Dylan Taylor, aka “Climberisms” on Instagram, imagines a conversation between Adam Ondra and Alex Honnold about baby diapers. Show Notes “Corrado 'Korra' Pesce dies after climbing new route on Cerro Torre with Tomas Aguilo” A crowdfunder to help Korra Pesce’s daughter. Description of Tommy and Korra’s new route. Follow Jordan Cannon Follow Dylan Taylor Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com